Problem with electrolysis

[Terry,NJ]

So I built a tub about 6' X 2 1/2' X 1" and lined it with black plastic, filled it with water and tried to make a rust removal tank out of it. Problem is that it hardly makes the charger needle move and it's plainly not working. And when I take a part out it's covered with a white scale. I've cone this before, but with a smaller tank. I thought maybe the polarity was wrong (Pos. to the piece of rebar, Neg to the work) It's well water with plenty of impurities so I didn't add anything to it. Anyone got any ideas?
Terry

[Mike V. Florida]

Don't you need to add an electrolyte like washing soda?

[Joe K]

6' X 2 1/2' X 1"

Um. 1" deep? You may mean 1 foot?

Current flow is a function of
1. surface area - both part AND anode (cathode?) Should be equal or greater on sacrificial part. A metal tub would work GREAT but will have a short life.
2. Line of sight - closer is better but adverse to even electrolysis. You may have to do one side and then the other.
3. Amount of ions in the water - more acid or (usual) base.

Check your connections. A good connection to your piece is essential. A large current with a small voltage differential (most of the dV will be in the bath) makes eliminating resistance between the wires and (particularly) the part or anode/cathode connection essential.

I use lye (yes, that Lye) but in rather weak solution. I can put my hands in the bath with little issue EXCEPT I can feel any cuts in my hands - and my hands come out SPARKLY CLEAN afterwards - well almost to the point of being raw after moving parts in and out over a day.

If you've tried all else like positioning the anode/cathode closer, increasing voltage modestly, checking your connections, try making a stronger "brew." And resort to gloves if you find yourself at all uncomfortable with putting your hands in the solution. It should not hurt.

And don't stick yer mits in the solution when the current is on. Micro-amperes at low voltage can result in death if condition/path is correct.

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Reading above I've refreshed my memory. Object to be cleaned/derusted is CATHODE and is (-). Sacrificial item is ANODE and is (+) If you hook up backwards you may get the deposits you mention. My anode tends to get a kind of a greenish whitish deposit which looks oddly like wet fungus on a rock. You can brush this off and it improves current flow.

Joe K

[ford3]

use molasses at 1 gallon molasses to 9 gallon of water, leave parts in for a week, really rusted parts will need to be left in for 2 weeks, when done simply wash of solution with a hose or better yet a high pressure washer, spray with wd 40 to prevent parts from rusting again

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Mike, that you need to add washing soda. Also have a steel rod every foot or so.

[redmodelt]

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More do's and do not's for doing electrolysis
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/126164.html

[glenn in camino]

I think I read something about one lead being connected to a stainless steel pan.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

I think I read something about one lead being connected to a stainless steel pan.

I think generally doing Electrolysis with a stainless steel anode (sacrificial) is considered a no-no. It seems that Chromium in some valences normally occurring during the disassociation process are very much a proven cancer risk - hence the fear and the recommendation against this.

I have done it. YES, the anode does last longer. YES I dumped my electrolyte in the yard afterwards. BUT I would prefer not to make it a regular practice.

One might ask why I did this? With all the "other" stuff that comes during electrolytic decomposition - degraded paint, grease and oil from the steel that gets removed by the caustic and thrown in my yard - the few Chromium ions that result are biologically a non-sequitur.

One of the theoretical "nice" aspects of electrolysis is that the electrolyte is generally considered harmless and biodegradable. Which it is should you start only with rusted steel. And to do stainless sort of undoes that advantage, which may be mostly PR considering all that "other" stuff.

But I respect the earth and the groundwater supply and strive to keep my own nest clean if possible.

Joe K

[Terry,NJ]

Thanks Guys! Well I went to Redmodel Ts site and learned a few things. Avoid Stainless steel anodes for one. Don't use Rebar! It just makes it take longer. This is surprising, use thin metal for the anode, old coffee cans work well. It has to do with renewing the surfaces. And if you are ever in need of a quick old patina on something, use it for an anode for a short time. Also, Don't use sodium Bicarbonate, it works but not well. I got a box of Arm and Hammer washing soda yesterday and put some in. I will add more today. Go to Redmodel Ts site and follow the discussion (4 years old)
Terry

[DUNN1929]

I agree with ford3. Molasses works great and removes ONLY the rust. You already have the tank and the water all you need is the molasses. Easy to get from a restaurant supply company. I never would have believed it if I hadn't tried it myself. I'll never use anything else again.

S Dunn

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by 1930 coupe

There is a man on you tube called Shopdogsam that has 7 videos on how to do electrolysis.
He also has hundreds of videos on rebuilding Maytag and hit and miss engines.
This link will take you to number 1 in his series of electrolysis videos. then click on his home page to see the rest of the videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcZtFTtUTfo

Take a no-doze before you watch that video....

[Dennis Pereira]

Rebar worked ok for me . Just make sure you dissolve the washing soda with warm water before adding to tank mixes better .