The Ford Barn

Nlbloch · 06-11-2014, 06:19 PM

My starter will occasionally "stick" in the on position -- that is, it continues to whirr after the floor button is depressed, even after the engine has started. I haven't figured out how to "unstick" it; generally, it stops on its own but sometimes making a large popping noise. I suspect the continued running is not good for the starter.

What could be the problem, and more importantly, the solution?

newshirt · 06-11-2014, 06:23 PM

The copper switch could be sticking to the starter button. Maybe need a replacement switch?

http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=4117

Tom Wesenberg · 06-11-2014, 07:10 PM

You need to determine if the problem is the push rod to switch misalignment causing binding, or if you have a weak contact strap inside the switch.

darrylkmc · 06-11-2014, 07:39 PM

Nlbloch,

Sometimes you will find, after removing the switch, is that either the starter stud and/or nut are not solid copper. I have seen copper coated steel, and if that is the case the switch strap will weld itself to the steel once the copper coating has warn away.

Darryl in Fairbanks

Nlbloch · 06-23-2014, 10:09 AM

The starter button (the penny sized circle on the starter motor) has a pit or mark on it as if it received an electric shock. Could this indicate, or be the source of, the problem?

I have ordered a new starter switch but not yet installed.

newshirt · 06-23-2014, 10:23 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Post a photo. The copper strap could have been temporarily welded to this pit on the button because of a dirty connection. Bad connections cause heat. Heat welds soft metals together.

Will N · 06-23-2014, 02:54 PM

Happens to me occasionally too. I've tried putting a small section of rigid plastic tubing between the copper strap and starter body to act as a spring to help push the copper strap back up, but is still sometimes welds itself to the contact. I believe that the original starter switch had a bronze strap, not copper. The bronze is stiffer and would naturally spring back better than the copper used in the repro switches. I've also found that the welding usually occurs when my battery doesn't have a full head of steam- like when it's been in the garage for a week, unused. I've been using the battery tenders to keep the charge topped off, and the frequecy of the welding is much less.

By the way- it's not good for the starter to run on like that. Even though it doesn't have the normal load of the engine that would cause it to overheat in no time, spinning free and fast for an extended period will cause the bushings to wear, and it will overheat the motor after a while. A battery quick disconnect is useful to cut power to the starter.

06-11-2014, 06:19 PM	#1
Nlbloch Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 70	starter problem My starter will occasionally "stick" in the on position -- that is, it continues to whirr after the floor button is depressed, even after the engine has started. I haven't figured out how to "unstick" it; generally, it stops on its own but sometimes making a large popping noise. I suspect the continued running is not good for the starter. What could be the problem, and more importantly, the solution?

06-11-2014, 06:23 PM	#2
newshirt Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 868	Re: starter problem The copper switch could be sticking to the starter button. Maybe need a replacement switch? http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=4117 __________________ Ray White

06-11-2014, 07:10 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: starter problem You need to determine if the problem is the push rod to switch misalignment causing binding, or if you have a weak contact strap inside the switch. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 06-11-2014 at 07:43 PM.

06-11-2014, 07:39 PM	#4
darrylkmc Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 767	Re: starter problem Nlbloch, Sometimes you will find, after removing the switch, is that either the starter stud and/or nut are not solid copper. I have seen copper coated steel, and if that is the case the switch strap will weld itself to the steel once the copper coating has warn away. Darryl in Fairbanks

06-23-2014, 10:09 AM	#5
Nlbloch Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 70	Re: starter problem The starter button (the penny sized circle on the starter motor) has a pit or mark on it as if it received an electric shock. Could this indicate, or be the source of, the problem? I have ordered a new starter switch but not yet installed.

06-23-2014, 10:23 AM	#6
newshirt Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 868	Re: starter problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Post a photo. The copper strap could have been temporarily welded to this pit on the button because of a dirty connection. Bad connections cause heat. Heat welds soft metals together. __________________ Ray White

06-23-2014, 02:54 PM	#7
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,100	Re: starter problem Happens to me occasionally too. I've tried putting a small section of rigid plastic tubing between the copper strap and starter body to act as a spring to help push the copper strap back up, but is still sometimes welds itself to the contact. I believe that the original starter switch had a bronze strap, not copper. The bronze is stiffer and would naturally spring back better than the copper used in the repro switches. I've also found that the welding usually occurs when my battery doesn't have a full head of steam- like when it's been in the garage for a week, unused. I've been using the battery tenders to keep the charge topped off, and the frequecy of the welding is much less. By the way- it's not good for the starter to run on like that. Even though it doesn't have the normal load of the engine that would cause it to overheat in no time, spinning free and fast for an extended period will cause the bushings to wear, and it will overheat the motor after a while. A battery quick disconnect is useful to cut power to the starter.