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Old 10-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #21
Ross/Kzoo
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Default Re: Wishbone alignment

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Originally Posted by darrylkmc View Post
Hster

If you have a crack similar to the one shown on my Model B engine, I fixed it using 11 each 1/8" solid brass pipe plugs. I started on each of the crack, drilled and tapped halfway each plug and worked towards the middle, ground it near flush then center punched each plug. This was thirty years ago.

I was scratching around on the block trying to find the repair to show someone so I took some photos of it at that time.

I know that there are various ways of repairing cracks, I had read about this method in an old book and gave it a try. It was quick, easy, inexpensive and has lasted flawlessly.

Good luck

Darryl in Frozen Fairbanks
I'm unsure exactly what you did. Could you go into more detail because if it's worked for 30 years that's a definite success.
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Old 10-11-2013, 07:50 PM   #22
darrylkmc
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Default Re: Wishbone alignment

Ross/Kzoo

The only book that I had growing up as a teenager, and working on my Dad's '31 CC Pickup, in the '70s was:

Model A Ford: Construction, Operation, Repair for the Restorer written by
Victor W. Page

Therefore, I believe that I read about the basic procedure in his book. It described using Fine Threaded Brass Rod. I went to the hardware store and couldn't find brass rod in fine thread, but I found 1/8" Solid Brass Pipe Plugs. I thought that this would work better anyway because of the fine thread and the taper of the plug.

I started by drill stopping each end of the crack. I then drilled and tapped the first hole on either end of the crack, I ground down the end of the tap so that I wouldn't run into anything in the water jacket and I could obtain just the right depth and tightness (not to tight, not to loose) on the Brass Plug. I then ground each plug near flush with the block, I drilled half into the first plug/half into the crack, drilled, tapped, plugged, ground and worked from both sides towards the middle. It almost looks like solid brass when finished.

I center punched each plug to expand/set them firmly, ground down the plugs about flush with the block.

I then painted the block with a polyurethane paint that I mixed up.

I had overheated this engine about 25 years later and blew a head gasket when I first put it in my Phaeton and it had developed a slight tick that only I seemed to be able to hear. When I took it out I found a scored piston, I filed down the score marks, honed and deglazed the cylinder, re-ringed it .020, the rods had been eaten away from the Antifreeze during overheating, STD Size, I bought a set off Ebay for $101.00 installed them and it runs extremely well and I have put many thousands of miles on this engine.

I wanted to show the repair to a friend, who actually thought I was crazy when he saw me do this originally, because he had bought a quite expensive H and H engine that had a rusted out/poor casting at the rear water jacket about where the throttle linkage mounts. Thankfully we ran his engine on a test stand and found the leak before he installed it in his car. We repaired it with a half dozen pipe plugs using the same procedure.

It is a Diamond B engine I took out of a '32 BB, put it in a '31 CCPU I built from parts, later installed it in my '31 AA, then into my Dad's '31 PU, and it currently resides in my '30 Phaeton.

Hope this helps,

Darryl in Fairbanks
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:00 PM   #23
Ross/Kzoo
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Default Re: Wishbone alignment

Thanks Darryl, I'll put that in my memory file and hopefully I won't need it but it might help someone else.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #24
darrylkmc
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Default Re: Wishbone alignment

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Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo View Post
Thanks Darryl, I'll put that in my memory file and hopefully I won't need it but it might help someone else.
Ross/Kzoo,

Hopefully what I wrote makes sense, I wrote it out quite quickly, from memory. If you need any additional information, please let me know.

Darryl in Fairbanks
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:06 PM   #25
Hster
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Default Re: Wishbone alignment

Wow thats great. I would have tried that method over JB Weld, but other concerns ruled out a fix. So I'm thinking you are drilling one hole, threading it, then tapping in the rod and then move over and drill the next hole into the block and the previous rod. That's slick
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