generator or alternator

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Wow, I like your thinking!! With that same mindset we could also put on fiberglass fenders because they are cheaper & easier to fix than steel, and while we're at it, maybe replace the wheels & tires with ones from a 70's Ford pick-up because they are ½ the price. Oh and instead of replacing the windows with glass, we could use sheet plastic because it is less money too, oh and we can use naugahyde reminants from WalMart for upholstery instead. Oh and that paint at Tractor Supply is much cheaper too...

. Insert smiley face ..Thinking back over the years, I've done all of those things with slight variations. In the seventies I put a set of fiberglass rear fenders on our coupe because I didn't have any and Ricks fenders were only about thirty something dollars each. I didn't have much money, they looked ok and it was still a model A. I replaced the fiberglass fenders in the ninties with new steel fenders. When I got the coupe, I hauled it home in pieces with lots of parts missing. it didn't have any door glass. I had an old gun case with plexiglass in the doors. I used a hand saw and carefully cut out door glasses for the coupe .My first model A was a strip down with 50 mercury 15 inch wheels and spun aluminum disc hubcaps. I liked hot rods and it was quite a thrill for a 13 year old. It had a stack for an exhaust but it was my hot rod model A and it would chick-ah-lunk with the spark retarded. I've still got it but its got some cool aluminum wheels with big and little tires that my son in law gave me. My first model A had a 1950 De Soto generator that uncle Ray and I rigged up negative ground and it worked good. The sealed beam headlamps were bright. We didn't have a Walmart way back then but aunt Grace made up a seat cover out of some used vinyl that she had and we installed it. I painted my first two model A's with a brush and Fix All enamel from the local hardware store. I wasn't a bodyman-painter then but with a good nylon bristle brush they looked good to me at the time.Everybody doesn't necessarily care about a points show car but still love model A's whether they are perfect original or not . All of these things can be reversed and these sort of things has preserved a lot of model A's that otherwise would have been scrapped. Just my humble thoughts.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

. Insert smiley face ..Thinking back over the years, I've done all of those things with slight variations. In the seventies I put a set of fiberglass rear fenders on our coupe because I didn't have any and Ricks fenders were only about thirty something dollars each. I didn't have much money, they looked ok and it was still a model A. I replaced the fiberglass fenders in the ninties with new steel fenders. When I got the coupe, I hauled it home in pieces with lots of parts missing. it didn't have any door glass. I had an old gun case with plexiglass in the doors. I used a hand saw and carefully cut out door glasses for the coupe .My first model A was a strip down with 50 mercury 15 inch wheels and spun aluminum disc hubcaps. I liked hot rods and it was quite a thrill for a 13 year old. It had a stack for an exhaust but it was my hot rod model A and it would chick-ah-lunk with the spark retarded. I've still got it but its got some cool aluminum wheels with big and little tires that my son in law gave me. My first model A had a 1950 De Soto generator that uncle Ray and I rigged up negative ground and it worked good. The sealed beam headlamps were bright. We didn't have a Walmart way back then but aunt Grace made up a seat cover out of some used vinyl that she had and we installed it. I painted my first two model A's with a brush and Fix All enamel from the local hardware store. I wasn't a bodyman-painter then but with a good nylon bristle brush they looked good to me at the time.Everybody doesn't necessarily care about a points show car but still love model A's whether they are perfect original or not . All of these things can be reversed and these sort of things has preserved a lot of model A's that otherwise would have been scrapped. Just my humble thoughts.

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[Milton]

Originally Posted by Fred

So you were contradicting me, Well if you READ post # 27 I think you will find the price of a CHEAP one @ $365.00 & another @ $900.00.. I can buy a gen. @ a flea market for $10.00, ($20.00) on E-bay & rebuild it for for less than the shipping cost of either one of the "DEEP POCKET ONES" that are not needed...

Fred, Now that you have clarified your statement, i.e. an alternator that looks like a stock generator, I have nothing to contradict. In fact, I wholeheartedly support what you say. I did read post #27 and the prices were so far out of the park that I barely considered them to be significant in deciding between an alternator or a generator.

[CarlG]

I have an alternator on my rig, cost me about a hundred bucks for the kit 3 years ago. Not a bit of trouble with it since then.

[Rock Hornbuckle]

Originally Posted by Christoph

Alternators are UGLY

Prob of alternator is, that they are made for top-speed
of 16000 to 22000 rpm (today). Ratio is created to meet
top-revs of engine with top-revs of alt.
Not having the space to get this ratio into your A, you will allways
have a real high "start-rev" of the alternator and not reaching
the built-in-power ....
You will run the alt powerwise way below "design-speed"
(no prob if output is sufficient to your needs)
Low revs of alt is a good thing as bearings will last forever

My wife is UGLY too! But she functions real well!

[dave in australia]

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I always like to read discussions like this one, and what type of oil, or halogen versus incandescent bulbs, single pack paint versus two pack. There's always some strong opinions around.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dave in australia

I always like to read discussions like this one, and what type of oil, or halogen versus incandescent bulbs, single pack paint versus two pack. There's always some strong opinions around.

Here's another mystery.
My powerhouse generator and an alternator both generate alternating current, but my powerhouse changes it to DC though the commutator and the alternator changes it to DC through the 6 diodes. So both send out DC current.

My Honda EU1000 produces alternating current and sends out alternating current, and yet it's called a "GENERATOR". Is this an oxymoron or what?

BTW, here is what Audel's has to say about the generator:

[Tom F OHIO]

Four pages so far and not one response from machine girl. They must be still thinking "What to do".

[jrelliott]

You can convert an alternator to a single wire yourself. Pick up a GM alternator and buy the single wire conversion kit from NAPA. Made the support from the outside pieces from a spring shackle, purchased the pulley from Model A suppliers. If you want the full instructions send me an email [email protected]. Purchased my alternator from Fleet Farm for about $50.00 including core charge. That was a few years back.

[Forker]

I prefer blondes

[KMeredith87]

I have an alternator on my pickup simply because I wanted to be able to run 12v accessories. Oh and it was already done by my grandfather before I got it. But I also picked up a delco remmy 10s for an old GM car, Vega maybe, and just swapped out the internal regulator for a self exciting one wire. Simple and cheap to do total cost was about $50. Don't forget though if you change to 12v there is more that will have to changed than the generator, i.e. light bulbs, negative ground, coils and things of that nature. Good luck!

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by Forker

I prefer blondes

Blondes are fun, but brunnettes get the job done

[Forker]

Blondes are fun, but brunnettes get the job done

I wouldn't argue with you for a second...just showing my intelligence and desire for marital bliss (see my avatar )

[Bob-A]

But redheads are extra fun..............

[John Butts in CT]

Hello, "machine girl." You still there? Stick with a stock 6 Volt Positive Ground generator. Run your GPS and MP3 Player off their own batteries (and what a joy it is to pull up to as bank drive-through window with Scott Joplin or an FDR speech blaring from the speakers). Plenty of juice to run LED brake lights and turn signals. ZERO problems since 1967.

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by Bob-A

But redheads are extra fun..............

Amen Brother

[BrianM]

I'm sure "machine girl" must be amazed by all the suggestions. I'm a relative newbie myself, but am a retired electrical engineer. My take is as follows:

I like originality as much as possible. However, as I often have to drive at night (like coming home from all our club meetings), I must admit that the stock lights were a bit anemic. I changed to 50/32 cp headlights & cranked up the brushes, but soon realized that I was pushing the generator beyond it's capability. Thanks to Tom for pointing out that the long generator is only good for about 12 amps continuously. Even dropping back to 32/32 cp headlights would put me over the 12 amps, when taillights & ignition are figured in. Besides, I feel that the 3 cp taillights are rather dim, considering that the driver behind me is probably preoccupied with his/her cell phone.

Having to continually adjust the third brush, or put up with excessive battery charge & frequent bulb failures, is also an issue. Again, I salute Tom for his internal voltage regulator, but meaning no disrespect whatever, it isn't original, although it is nicely out of sight.

Re bulbs, I like the originality of plain incandescent bulbs. The light from halogens & LED taillights just doesn't appeal to me personally, nor do the very high prices!

So, my solution is to stick with 6 volts, positive ground, but use a low current alternator. As I wince when I look at modern alternators in an A, I went with a Wagner 40 amp unit, which looks a lot more like a generator with it's fan & black painted housing. Why only 40 amps? Consider that the wiring was designed for a generator of less than 20 amps...And I have NO plans for AC, GPS, phones, nor MP3's.

I use the 30 amp repro ammeter, so the stock look is retained. The usual 30 amp safety fuse works fine. I did find two VERY nice wiring harnesses from Sacramento Vintage Ford using heavier gauge wires (12 instead of 14). One goes from the terminal box to starter and generator, the other is the instrument panel harness. Together they are only 20 bucks and look totally correct.

I use 50/32 cp headlights, 10 cp taillights & parking lights, and 32 cp brakelights. I'm amazed how bright all the lights are with full voltage on them, and I don't have to worry about moving brushes or overcharging.

That's my solution; works for me.

[Rich in Tucson]

Ain't all this ultimately about the battery? Buy a microprocessor controlled, desulfating battery charger (not a trickling battery tenderizer) and use it periodically on your A (and modern cars) and it won't make any difference what is under your fan belt - your battery will last longer AS LONG as what is under your hood is not boiling your battery...

[Drive Shaft Dave]

This Is just getting crazy!

[CarlG]

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