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Old 01-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #101
Farrell In Vancouver
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Long shot in the dark?
Have you tried eyeballing it in the dark?
Possible shorting you cannot see in the light?
You mentioned changing the high tension lead as "it was a little loose"
Sometimes with a leaky boot, you can build up a carbon track on the tower of the coil or across the distributor cap. When conditions are right the energy goes to ground on the easiest path. This would give you a fairly good charge of unburnt fuel in the pipe and a neighbor waking backfire.
Of course you've changed the coil out, but have you had a good look at the cap?
Good luck in the hunt, I hope you find it soon!
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:22 PM   #102
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Mitch//PA, I'm not a parts changer and we know the problem, it's not running correctly!!! I have three model A's built by me and others no problems there! As far as Sgwilson904 thread I was JUST trying to help him out with a similar problem he has! I apologize if I took over HIS thread! I wasn't the one who continued his thread, it was all the replies that we in Washington have tried with no results. Seems as tho you don't have the answer for the correct fix EITHER! I'll leave it here and be even nicer!!!!! Have a Good Day!!!!
OK OK lets breath. We all get fustrated when is seems that we cannot help another model A'er. We need to summerize all the thoughts so we can better see what has already been done. It's easy to get lost after 6 pages.

Here are a few I don't remember if anything was done. Brent gave a step by step procedure for when if happens as did H. L. Chauvin. Do we know if this was followed? There were a couple of thoughts vapor lock. Was cool water poured on the Carb when it acts up? Was the ground to the engine checked?

We can get this!!!
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #103
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Mitch//PA, I'm not a parts changer and we know the problem, it's not running correctly!!! I have three model A's built by me and others no problems there! As far as Sgwilson904 thread I was JUST trying to help him out with a similar problem he has! I apologize if I took over HIS thread! I wasn't the one who continued his thread, it was all the replies that we in Washington have tried with no results. Seems as tho you don't have the answer for the correct fix EITHER! I'll leave it here and be even nicer!!!!! Have a Good Day!!!!
you know the problem its not running correctly. well thats the complaint and the problem is what part or component is at fault:::
How do you know your problem is the same thing thats happening in fl ? Maybe the same symptoms but possibly not the same failure.

i suggested putting inline a simple spark tester to visually ck the intensity and pattern of it when it acts up.
mike k suggested to use that carb float tool to see if the bowl is running low on fuel. these simple things can lead you to attack which system if any of the two are the trouble.

If it was diagnosed properly which advice was given of how to do that in the above replies to determine which system is at fault ELECTRICAL / IGNITION / MECHANICAL or FUEL it could have been solved easily without replacing everything that has already been thrown at it. If that isn't parts changing what is and apparently whats been done in Washington was just that. anybody can replace parts and hope it's fixed but what service is that to the less knowledgeable who asks for help here. take your modern car to a repair facility would you want parts thrown at it till its fixed? that could become mighty expensive and these old A's can add up also. sorry if your upset but thats the way i see it. continue on shooting everyone down on all the things that have been thrown at it.
and yes i can properly diagnose and repair this vehicle, determine which system is at fault without tossing parts on it, and then test the appropriate components. so continue on you have done a good job so far thats why this poor guy is in fl with a broken truck.
Congrats you won the prize

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Last edited by Mitch//pa; 01-28-2013 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:04 PM   #104
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Mitch//PA, I'm not a parts changer and we know the problem, it's not running correctly!!! I have three model A's built by me and others no problems there! As far as Sgwilson904 thread I was JUST trying to help him out with a similar problem he has! I apologize if I took over HIS thread! I wasn't the one who continued his thread, it was all the replies that we in Washington have tried with no results. Seems as tho you don't have the answer for the correct fix EITHER! I'll leave it here and be even nicer!!!!! Have a Good Day!!!!
I'm sure that Mitch--who offered me some good ideas here--meant no disrespect...and I certainly can understand Gary's frustration with the very same problem I'm trying to solve.

You guys here in the Barn have been terrific to offer your time and expertise to both Gary and me (not to mention so many others with problems tough-to-resolve). Thanks to each and every one of you for the support...and if anybody has an additional thought, please chime in.

I'll let you know if/when we find a crab apple in the fuel tank <grin> or any other cause of this mind numbing mess.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #105
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I'll let you know if/when we find a crab apple in the fuel tank <grin> or any other cause of this mind numbing mess.
Maybe not a crab apple but what if it's as simple as crap gas. Tony S. had problems with his car running and draining the tank and refilling it solved the problem.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:23 PM   #106
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OK OK lets breath. We all get fustrated when is seems that we cannot help another model A'er. We need to summerize all the thoughts so we can better see what has already been done. It's easy to get lost after 6 pages.

Here are a few I don't remember if anything was done. Brent gave a step by step procedure for when if happens as did H. L. Chauvin. Do we know if this was followed? There were a couple of thoughts vapor lock. Was cool water poured on the Carb when it acts up? Was the ground to the engine checked?

We can get this!!!
Yes on all the above! except vapor lock. Thanks .this is for the veh in Washington. I'm done! Have a Great day everyone! and thanks for all your thoughts.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #107
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Here are a few I don't remember if anything was done. Brent gave a step by step procedure for when if happens as did H. L. Chauvin. Do we know if this was followed? There were a couple of thoughts vapor lock. Was cool water poured on the Carb when it acts up? Was the ground to the engine checked?

We can get this!!!
Well said, fellow Floridian...and I greatly appreciate you and the others hanging in there when it is so tempting to give up.

First, having checked the fuel tank, the filters, etc, including draining the tank and cleaning/replacing all filters, I do believe (as Ray Horton suggested back in Post #25) that it is NOT a fuel problem but something electrical and, as Ray and others suggest, most likely SOMETHING in my distributor.

So, here's my plan:

The easiest, first thing is to replace the entire distributor and cap with one known to be in perfect working shape. (Somebody here in the club must have one I can borrow.) I'll take the old one out, put the new one in and go for a long drive. If that solves the problem, I'll rebuild my own distributor with a new plate, new points, new wire, new condenser because ONE of those was the problem, right?

If the replacement distributor doesn't resolve the problem, I will then also replace my new coil with another known-to-be-working and see if that ends my trouble.

I'll also check the fuse plate because that's a very easy thing to look at and maybe even remove if there's any signs of trouble that some of you pointed out.

And if THAT doesn't work? I'll push it over a cliff! No, wait, there ARE no cliffs in Florida. Okay, THEN I'll start with the great diagnostics suggested by Brent, H.L. and others, one by one.

Reasonable? Other ideas?

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Old 01-28-2013, 06:42 PM   #108
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Sounds Like valves sticking when hot.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:49 PM   #109
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"If that solves the problem, I'll rebuild my own distributor with a new plate, new points, new wire, new condenser because ONE of those was the problem, right?"

Well, I would look everything over very carefully and see what I can observe what might be the problem. There are several components in your list of new stuff, and if you spend that money (about $40) and replace everything you won't know which component that it was that was faulty. Is it a 5-cent washer that's shorting out on the upper plate or a $5 point block that's cracked? It's almost assuredly not every one of those items listed!

Likewise, you can test your coil before spending $16-$20 for a new one. Use the scientific method and inspect and test one component at a time, then replace as your observations suggest.

Reading this thread might also help: https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95936
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:25 PM   #110
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Sounds Like valves sticking when hot.
Just did a check of the valves and compression test today. This was done by a well known Model A Mechanic who is 80 years old and an expert at it. He could find nothing. Thanks for your Idea.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:36 PM   #111
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Auto Machine. St. Charles, IL.....630-584-1188
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:50 PM   #112
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Auto Machine. St. Charles, IL.....630-584-1188
One problem car in Florida, and one in Washington, so driving to Illinois would be a bit out of the way.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:53 PM   #113
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SGWilson, in your original thread you mentioned this "Pulling the choke rod out about two-thirds of the way (flooding it with gas) will cause it to sputter a little less and limp a little farther." This to me is an indicator that it is a fuel problem. Possibly vapor lock. Could you tell us how much longer it runs when you pull the choke rod out? Good Luck. Joe B.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:44 PM   #114
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SGWilson, in your original thread you mentioned this "Pulling the choke rod out about two-thirds of the way (flooding it with gas) will cause it to sputter a little less and limp a little farther." This to me is an indicator that it is a fuel problem. Possibly vapor lock. Could you tell us how much longer it runs when you pull the choke rod out? Good Luck. Joe B.
It never really dies altogether...it just sputters and backfires and loses power. Pulling out the choke floods the carburetor to the extent that it just gives it slightly more power momentarily...
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #115
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It never really dies altogether...it just sputters and backfires and loses power. Pulling out the choke floods the carburetor to the extent that it just gives it slightly more power momentarily...
Did this start all of a sudden, or with the onset of warmer weather?
It does sound like typical ethanol problems on warmer days.

The condenser and coil are often heat related when they fail, but I think you changed both of them.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #116
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Whats the PRIZE?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #117
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Whats the PRIZE?
Send that poor car to the crusher!
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:22 PM   #118
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Send that poor car to the crusher!
It is at the crusher!
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:44 PM   #119
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looks like a HEAVY CHEVIEEEE....LOL
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:07 PM   #120
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plugged exhaust? Check heat riser??
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