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08-27-2012, 10:14 PM | #41 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
It's fun learning about old Fords. I could have saved for another year, spent another $10K and purchased an old Ford that didn't need much but I am learning so much about old Fords by doing a lot of this work myself.
I found these Acorn Nuts in the engine compartment; they don't appear in the Ford Chassis Parts and Accessories Catalogue. This mouse skeleton fell out of the back of the front seat recently. I did find an intact dead mouse the first day. It was a white/brown mouse--freshly dead. The tramatic flatbed ride probably stressed him to death. Wish I had a photo--I never had seen a brown and white mouse before. I feel like I am starting to get somewhere. I have been rewiring the car little by little. Getting my Optima 6V battery soon for the first start up. Those tires look good, but in reality they need to be replaced. They are old. Rolled the car down my friend's driveway and stepped on the brakes--the car stopped. That is good. Learning something new about old Fords nearly every day. Last edited by TonyM; 10-27-2012 at 09:18 PM. |
08-27-2012, 10:42 PM | #42 |
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Location: Newburyport, MA
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Tony, Nice car! Glad you are keeping it original. I think those nuts were optional in 37. Found a handful of them in my 2011 Pilot recently, mine are definately repops, yours might be NORS (Nuts, Old Rodent Supplied)...
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08-27-2012, 10:47 PM | #43 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Back to the original questions: The sender unit mechanism looks good--should I treat the sender unit with anything or just leave it alone? Also, what should I use to cover the sender hole when I treat the tank with the solution and sealer? I was thinking of making something. Any ideas?
Thanks. Quote:
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08-27-2012, 10:56 PM | #44 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: KILLINGWORTH, CT
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
You gotta love the banjo wheel and the radio. Good luck with it.
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08-28-2012, 03:56 AM | #45 |
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
If the tanks in good shape then don't add any pour 15 just run it .Fit a filter for the first few 100 miles .
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08-28-2012, 07:58 PM | #46 | |
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Location: Roodhouse, IL
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
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Quote:
I just bought a '37 Tudor in May. Same sealed beam conversion on mine. I unloaded the car from the trailer, pushed it into the garage, ..... and tore those SB conversions off. Within a week I had the stock lenses and rings back on the car. (Probably going with H4 conversions since I plan to DRIVE this car.) I understand why they added the SBs back then, but the teardrop headlights define the face of a '37. Great car you have there. I'll be watching your progress. |
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08-28-2012, 08:33 PM | #47 |
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Location: westport ct.
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
I rode in a 37 slant back std. 60 for the first 7 years of my life. My Dad drove it during the war said it got good gas mileage but as soon as the war was over (blacked out lights) he put on sealed beams.
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08-28-2012, 08:53 PM | #48 |
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Great looking Ford Glad you plan to keep it original . Dave
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08-29-2012, 05:25 PM | #49 |
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Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Optima 6V Battery has been ordered and is on the way for the Gas Can Start Up next week.
First start (hopefully) since 1990/1991. We'll see. Thanks to all for the great comments. Thanks DavidJ and Alan for your help. TonyM Last edited by TonyM; 08-29-2012 at 05:34 PM. |
09-04-2012, 08:29 PM | #50 |
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Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
My friend Mitch and I tried to start this 1937 Fordor today. The engine turned over nice, compression in all eight cylinders, the oil looked good (it was drained and replaced), the starter turned strong, the fuel pump pumped, but there was no spark from the spark plug wires. Took off the coil and will get it checked out and go from there.
I have new spark plugs and spark plug wires which I will install; I have replaced the battery wires, ground wires, solenoid/starter wiring. I will continue to replace the wiring all the way back to the tail lights as all of it is very deteriorated and waiting to cause trouble. Looking forward to finding the problems and solving them. TM |
09-04-2012, 10:31 PM | #51 |
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Location: Essex Vermont
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
WOW, what a sweetheart! I love 37s Ken
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09-05-2012, 06:07 AM | #52 |
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Location: North Alabama
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Sweet little V-8 Ford. Lucky too..... it got a good "daddy".
Mike
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"There is no 'normal life'; there's just life." - Doc Holliday from the film Tombstone |
09-05-2012, 07:10 AM | #53 |
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Location: ManchVegas, New Hampshah
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Back to your sending unit and tank questions. I made a disk the same size hole pattern as the fuel sender flange of 1/8" hardboard. It was mounted in the same way as the sender, gasketed and screwed down. In my case it was put there only for a clean out process. I did not coat the inside of the tank.
If you wire up the sender and power the gauges you should see the gauge move with the position of the sender arm. Be sure to ground the sender flange. Check the float for leaks. Put it in hot water and look for bubbles. If bubbles are seen replace it. Floats are available as well as complete senders. |
09-29-2012, 02:35 PM | #54 |
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Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Finally getting around to cleaning this fuel tank using the POR 15 method. Real life interferes sometimes.
Check out my Fuel Tank Agitation Machine. I thought that I was a genius and invented this method myself but I am told that others had used the two tires in this fashion. I'll bet the guy who threw the tires away had no idea that they had some more miles left on them. Looking forward to getting this done. TM. |
09-29-2012, 04:37 PM | #55 |
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Location: Nebraska
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Great find and glad things are coming along so well for you..
Back to some of the original comments about hot rodders,hot rodding such a survivor and then selling off the parts.. A lot of us are very thankful for those parts.. Just like an organ donor they help bring life to many an old timer.. Still glad to see you have it and fixing what needs to be fixed. |
10-10-2012, 09:19 PM | #56 | |
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Location: Bellingham, Washington
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Quote:
As for the "organ donor" parts...something this complete and in such a good shape should be preserved. It should not be parted out just to turn it into another ridiculously colored "kustom". These are nice looking cars and turning them some wild tropical color, putting the "oh so common" Chevy 350 in it and nasty chrome wheels is awful. There are plenty in worse shape to do that to. Don't take something this nice and ruin it. I would love to find a 36-39 Tudor (or Fordor) without a hump back! They're awesome! |
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10-12-2012, 05:45 PM | #57 |
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Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
Waiting for my distributor from Bubba's; just got my coil back from Skip; my new wiring harness came today from Narragansette Reproductions; and my new hoses and exhaust pieces came from Joe's the other day. Looking forward to putting all the new stuff on and getting the car going.
Last edited by TonyM; 11-25-2012 at 10:38 PM. |
10-27-2012, 09:15 PM | #58 |
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
I had not looked at this key wallet since the day I purchased this 1937 Ford and had removed the Hurd keys. Recently I opened the wallet up and discovered the original key code tabs that came with the car in 1937. Wow.
On a related note: I locked my right hand door with the key but to my horror I could not unlock the door. After about 20 minutes of gentle jiggling, I managed to get the key to work. I won't be trying that again. |
10-28-2012, 04:54 PM | #59 |
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
I have never seen "original" spark plug wires on an early engine-they appear to be color coded-is that correct?
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10-29-2012, 10:11 PM | #60 |
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Location: West Hammond, Illinois
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Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor
I have not seen "original" 1937 spark plug wires either but an illustration in the November 1936 Ford Service Bulletin indicate that they were color coded: Cylinders 1 & 5 = Black/Red; Cylinders 2 & 6 = Black/Blue; Cylinders 3 & 7 = Black/Green; Cylinders 4 & 8 = Black/Yellow. Good Luck. TM
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