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Old 08-13-2011, 01:01 AM   #1
'29wagon
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Default install cowl blocks.

i've acquired a set of decent wood base blocks for my '29 cowl both are slightly thicker than the metal channel so i plan to sand the flat side a bit to fit. i can't tell which but either the top side or bottom side of these wood blocks are tapered, concave maybe to ease the install. if some one can inform me so i'm not to botch this procedure i know they need to be tight.
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Old 08-13-2011, 01:34 AM   #2
Russ/40
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

I'll second the request. Mine don't fit either.
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:33 PM   #3
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

nobody ?
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:14 AM   #4
Marco Tahtaras
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

If these are for a Station wagon, I assume they are short filler blocks with only the front bolt hole like other Murray and Briggs bodies. Ford bodies used a long filler block with three body bolt holes. These were definitely thicker at the rear and were inserted from the rear before the cowl was attached the the floor sills.
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:57 AM   #5
Terry, NJ
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Marco, Does a Town Sedan use these blocks too. When I pulled the body off the frame, I don't remember seeing any of these. T.I.A.
Terry



Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras View Post
If these are for a Station wagon, I assume they are short filler blocks with only the front bolt hole like other Murray and Briggs bodies. Ford bodies used a long filler block with three body bolt holes. These were definitely thicker at the rear and were inserted from the rear before the cowl was attached the the floor sills.
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:14 AM   #6
Marco Tahtaras
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry, NJ View Post
Marco, Does a Town Sedan use these blocks too. When I pulled the body off the frame, I don't remember seeing any of these. T.I.A.
Terry
Below is a pic I found in my stuff. This an unmolested 165-B '29 Briggs Fordor belonging to "dean from bozeman". It is the only car I've seen (or heard of) with the body tag located here! I wish the pic provided more detail but it's the best I can do. Note there is a "step" in the top of the block.

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Old 08-14-2011, 12:05 PM   #7
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

yes, that does look similar to the front cowl connection to the frame. looks like that block does not fit under the foot of that angle brace. so then is there a separate block at the pillar base or does the wood floor rail connect to that end.
the long wood block i have looks like it should fit . the three bolt holes line up with the wood block holes. i am making the side bracket to the frame .
interesting diversities right down to the cowl base.
the books all show that the '28-'29 coupes, roadsters, phaetons, tudor sedans and pickups had the three hole long wood block then in '30 it was shortened and straightened . much different later.
so now was there an earlier third style, much shorter ?
very interesting.
thank you.
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:25 PM   #8
Marco Tahtaras
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '29wagon View Post
yes, that does look similar to the front cowl connection to the frame. looks like that block does not fit under the foot of that angle brace. so then is there a separate block at the pillar base or does the wood floor rail connect to that end.
the long wood block i have looks like it should fit . the three bolt holes line up with the wood block holes. i am making the side bracket to the frame .
interesting diversities right down to the cowl base.
the books all show that the '28-'29 coupes, roadsters, phaetons, tudor sedans and pickups had the three hole long wood block then in '30 it was shortened and straightened . much different later.
so now was there an earlier third style, much shorter ?
very interesting.
thank you.
Yes, the models with wooden floor sills had the sills extending under the cowl structure. The double carriage bolts went through the front end of the side sills.
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:37 PM   #9
Dan Partain
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras
Ford bodies used a long filler block with three body bolt holes. These were definitely thicker at the rear and were inserted from the rear before the cowl was attached the the floor sills.

I Believe the above is in reference to the 30-31 blocks (coupe, rdster, phaeton, tudor, pickup), and the 28-29 cowl support blocks have a uniform thickness throughout their length.

I had to destroy what was left of my originals to get them out so I wasn't able to get a measurement except for the rear most part of the block. The new ones I purchased are the same thickness front to rear. I hope I don't have to pull them out and recut them...
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:35 PM   #10
Marco Tahtaras
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Partain View Post
I Believe the above is in reference to the 30-31 blocks (coupe, rdster, phaeton, tudor, pickup), and the 28-29 cowl support blocks have a uniform thickness throughout their length.

I had to destroy what was left of my originals to get them out so I wasn't able to get a measurement except for the rear most part of the block. The new ones I purchased are the same thickness front to rear. I hope I don't have to pull them out and recut them...
I believe (from memory) that most replacement front blocks for '28-29 models are made the same thickness throughout so they can be slipped in from the front. Most folks don't unrivet the cowl to get the blocks in from the rear as Ford did. On the standard Ford bodies the long cowl block DOES NOT have a step in it like the one I showed above. The block had a taper or transition area between the two thicknesses. This MAY be why you had so much difficulty removing the blocks.
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:32 PM   #11
Dan Partain
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Yes, I removed what was left of my rotten blocks on my 82-A before I knew I was going to seperate the cowl from the rest of the cab. It would have been much easier to do after the cowl was seperated from the cab. (I found that after all of the bolts were removed the cowl was only held by 2 rivets).

I drove the new blocks in from the rear of the cowl, and as I remember it was a little tight mostly because it had to go over some rivets to get in place.

I'd be interested to know the correct dimensions of an original block -The thickness at the rear, and thickness at the front. I've never found this dimension anywhere. Anyone have a drawing?

If the original block had to thicknesses then the other question that comes to mind is how would a block of the same dimension from front to rear affect the alignment of the body at the cowl? If the block is not as thick in the rear as the original would this cause the rear of the cowl to be a little lower than it should be?
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Old 08-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #12
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

i've roughed up a drawing and dimensioned this block that i will not be installing, thanks to marco's picture. i'll be cutting a shorter, new set.
dan, the old block is the same hight front and back(1-3/16" tall). however, about 7" of the middle section is 1/8" less in hight (1-1/16"tall).
really quite complex (surprisingly) for something so simple.
as for that rivet. was the cowl originally attached to the frame and then the block installed ?
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:47 PM   #13
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Default Re: install cowl blocks.

Thanks for the info about the 1/8" thinner dimension of that block. If you have a rough drawing I'd be interested in seeing it although your description is simple enough.

If you are asking about the rivet I was talking about, here is a photo I took of it. There is one rivet on each side of the subframe that holds the cowl assembly to the cab assembly after all of the cowl bolts are removed. This may be similar on your wagon, but I can't say for sure. It will probably be easiest to insert the block once the cowl is removed from the rest of the body. Someone more familiar with that body style would be able to say for sure.

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