drum puller

[russcc]

I have seen many different types of Ford banjo drum pullers including KR Wilson's over the years. I was pulling the drums on the '40 recently, and thought that maybe some of you hadn't seen this type used. It's a 2 jaw, Craftsman WFE9-46903. I have used it for years for all kinds of tasks, this is just another one.

[koates]

With respect that puller is not correct for the application you show in the picture. The KR Wilson and other makes that pull right around the groove in the hub are the only type that should be used. Much information on this subject is in the barn history. Regards, Kevin.

[19Fordy]

Looks kind of "iffy".

Meaning,
"If" it doesn't fly off, it might work but, 2 point contact isn't very reassuring.

Must hurt when those jaws slip off.

[Bored&Stroked]

While the type of puller shown may "work" in the cases where there is not a really tight fitment of the axle taper to the hub, I would not recommend using it. There are some really nice pullers available that cost under $100 that will do the job correctly and will not damage the end of the axle or the groove area of the drum itself. With that said, if I was in a pinch to try to get a drum off and had no other tools . . . 'yes', I'd probably give it a go. LOL

[40cpe]

That looks like too nice of a floor to be doing mechanic work on.

[JSeery]

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That type of puller shouldn't work if the hub was seated properly.

[Will D]

I've used that type of puller in a pinch on my hubs. It worked but it also bent....i would not advise it for this application.

[russcc]

Thank you all for your input. The puller grips the groove in the drum perfectly and has never come of in all the years I have used. Maybe a first time. Always follow the rule, "What If and Stay out of the path of failure".

[Mart]

Use what works for you, as long as you are not pulling on the drum or studs, that's what causes the damage.

It should be said, though, if it doesn't feel like something is going to break, it wasn't done up tight enough.

[A bones]

JSeery and Bored&Stroked have both hit the nail on the head. Proper installation won't allow that two jaw puller to work. Ultimately the axle can suffer cracking and worse in the keyway area. ( shear off hub area, loss of wheel, and hydraulic brakes ) Your choice. But it's no fun when you get bit in the ass.

I would right away search out drum retainer clips. In the event your axles have been overly stressed.

Thanks for sharing Good Luck.

[koates]

Around 200 ft. lb. is the correct torque for the axle nut. Are you doing yours up that tight? Regards, Kevin.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by koates

Around 200 ft. lb. is the correct torque for the axle nut. Are you doing yours up that tight? Regards, Kevin.

IF I remember correctly, it's 205 ft. lbs., PLUS an additional whatever-it-takes to insert the cotter key. I know, it ALWAYS sounds scary as hell, but if it ain't that tight, you're asking for some really ugly trouble. DD

[RalphM]

Definitely worth it to get a good puller like the KR Wilson ABV-156.
I bought a cheapo($70) one and it was a piece of crap.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Mart

Use what works for you, as long as you are not pulling on the drum or studs, that's what causes the damage.

It should be said, though, if it doesn't feel like something is going to break, it wasn't done up tight enough.

Oh yeah... total words of wisdom!

[coolcoupe]

I tried one of these,it was really scary when it flew off !!! Never again.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by coolcoupe

I tried one of these,it was really scary when it flew off !!! Never again.

Enough said! DD

















…………………...

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by JSeery

That type of puller shouldn't work if the hub was seated properly.

I agree with Seery... I use the KR Wilson.

[Tim Ayers]

I have one from Vintage Precision coming to me early next week. It's an essential tool for sure.

[flatford8]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I have one from Vintage Precision coming to me early next week. It's an essential tool for sure.

I’m supposed to receive mine today. Seemed like very nice people to deal with..... Mark

[51woodie]

I bought mine from Vintage Precision for work on my '46, and it is excellent. Some may consider it expensive, but it is well worth the price.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I’m supposed to receive mine today. Seemed like very nice people to deal with..... Mark

Agreed.

[Will D]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I have one from Vintage Precision coming to me early next week. It's an essential tool for sure.

This style says it's for drums with the "groove" and not the "protruding ring". Know of any suppliers of one suitable for drums with the protruding ring style?

[Tim Ayers]

I don't, sorry. I would check Ebay for vintage hub puller. That type tends to pop up more often.

[Bored&Stroked]

The one that I have is NOT a KR Wilson version, but picks up the groove and works really well. I can't remember who I bought it from (probably eBay, Ford Barn or the HAMB). Will take pictures late on and post . . .

[flatford8]

I opened mine last nite while my son was visiting. He’s a Tool and Die Maker at the ship yard in Kittery. He looked it over good and thought it was a real well made tool. Rugged, good quality materials and nice machining...... Mark

[deuce lover]

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Here's mine.had it 50 yrs and got it free. Never failed Works like a charm

[Jack E/NJ]

Some folks have claimed this $18 HarborFreight tierod puller can also get the job done by filing the claws a bit to snug in the groove. Jack E/NJ

[johndee138]

^^^^
That's ^^^^ what I've used in the past. works well enough I would love a "real" puller but it runs almost 10 times the cost for the above unit. I get the good one someday

[Mart]

If I was going to try and use one like that one pictured above, I'd put a big G Clamp across it to help prevent the jaws from spreading apart.

Mart.

[flatford8]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Some folks have claimed this $18 HarborFreight tierod puller can also get the job done by filing the claws a bit to snug in the groove. Jack E/NJ

I hope it’s not made by the same company as their jackstands....... Mark

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Some folks have claimed this $18 HarborFreight tierod puller can also get the job done by filing the claws a bit to snug in the groove. Jack E/NJ

All these cheapo pullers can end up costing you an axle, a drum, or worse. Two points of contact guarantee it to wobble under the wrench, and that's when things start going south.

[RalphM]

Yep, The right tool for the right job. Just like getting out stuck flat head valves you can spend hours fighting them or get the right tool and do it in less than an hour.

[mcgarrett]

Then there's this bad boy made by Blue Point. My Dad found this at a garage sale or auction several years ago and it's a beast - probably weighs around 10 pounds! Had to modify it slightly, but it will fit Model A & early V8 hubs nicely. Grips with incredible leverage and applies pressure squarely on the end of the axle stub.

[bobH]

Home made, obviously copied from 'somewhere', works good

[RalphM]

That’s well made! How did you machine out the recess? On a Mill?

[Aarongriffey]

I bought one from Precision I think on eBay. Was a few years ago. Nice folks, made well works great.
Back in the days (early to mid fifties) we put the opposite wheel on a starter or generator, put the weight of the car on the wheels, put the nut flush with the end of the axle and whacked it with a sledge hammer.
Hopefully the wheel would stay right there but the rear end of the car would roll on the old round thing under the opposite wheel. Always worked. The dealer mechanics taught me that.
There was also a special nut you could buy to put on the axle for hammering on.

[Bob NH]

deuce lover, I wondered how long it would be before someone posted a picture of your puller. I also have the same one which my dad used and somehow I managed to hang on to it. On a tough pull, an impact socket lightly used works wonders !