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Old 06-07-2016, 10:01 PM   #101
1955cj5
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

Then check the cable connections at the battery, or the cable itself, and also check the battery ground connection...a connection that may carry enough power to run the lights may not carry the amperage needed to crank the starter..

Of course you may have already done this, you seem pretty thorough!
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:05 PM   #102
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I'm trying to be as thorough as I can be. I'm learning all of this as I go, so I'm wanting to make sure it's done right. I spend a lot of my free time, and down time at work, reading and searching the barn for answers and tips to help me out.

I'll make sure and check the battery cables when I get out there tomorrow evening.


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Old 06-07-2016, 10:18 PM   #103
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Just for safetys sake, I added and auxilirary ground cable to my three cars. Where the ground strap bolts to the frame, I used a longer brass bolt and put the new cable from it to the bell housing. This was done to prevent problems, not because of a problem, I want to be clear about that. But while listening to the starters spin, I'd swear now it has a higher cranking speed. Not much, but a little higher.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:25 PM   #104
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

Terry,

Where does the ground strap bolt to the frame? Mine was bolted to the transmission.


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Old 06-07-2016, 10:29 PM   #105
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

Make sure you have 6V battery cables. They are bigger and thicker than 12V cables. And they carry a bigger amp load than 12 V cables. And make sure your connections are CLEAN, BRIGHT, and TIGHT! Old dirty connections make any car tough to start and charge. It's especially true of any 6V systems. Good Luck!
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I'm trying to be as thorough as I can be. I'm learning all of this as I go, so I'm wanting to make sure it's done right. I spend a lot of my free time, and down time at work, reading and searching the barn for answers and tips to help me out.

I'll make sure and check the battery cables when I get out there tomorrow evening.


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Old 06-07-2016, 10:37 PM   #106
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

OK someone beat me to it! Trans, Bell housing, engine, starter bolt, it doesn't really matter which one just so you're getting a good ground to the engine. My ground strap is bolted to the frame, next to the battery. Not really the best place for an electrical connection.
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Terry,

Where does the ground strap bolt to the frame? Mine was bolted to the transmission.


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Old 06-07-2016, 10:39 PM   #107
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Oh ok. I didn't know if this was correct or not. Just reusing what the previous owner had used until I could get everything figured out.


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Old 06-08-2016, 08:15 PM   #108
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Thinking out loud a little. If the battery connections are solid, and I remove the switch from the starter. If I touch the negative cable to the contact on the starter, would that help me narrow it down to a starter vs switch problem??


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Old 06-08-2016, 08:31 PM   #109
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

[QUOTE=lucky_stripe_garage;1306183]Thinking out loud a little. If the battery connections are solid, and I remove the switch from the starter. If I touch the negative cable to the contact on the starter, would that help me narrow it down to a starter vs switch problem??


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Yes.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:29 PM   #110
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So it's definitely the starter. Time for a rebuild.


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Old 08-02-2016, 07:45 AM   #111
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Sorry it's been awhile since I've been able to go out to the garage and work on my A. The starter is still not working but, on a good note, I found an oval speedometer in one of the many boxes of parts I got out of the previous owners shop. Most of the numbers are missing off of the odometer and trip meter. I found all the stuff that needs to be replaced from Bert's. My only question is, what lubricant should I use on the gears inside the speedometer? I've read everything from the mystery oil, 3 in 1, graphite, and just WD-40. Just curious of what would be the best option. As always, Thank you for your help.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:40 AM   #112
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

I put a drop of motor oil on each gear and shaft end bushing, then I use a toothpick and also add a dab of Mystik JT-6 at each part. My speedometer has been working perfectly since I did this in the early 90's.

WD-40 dries up and won't be a good lubricant. I also wouldn't use it around pot metal.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:14 PM   #113
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Thanks Tom. I'll give that a try. Just ordered the needed pieces today. This should be a fun little project this weekend.


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Old 08-03-2016, 08:25 AM   #114
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

I'd recommend an auxiliary ground cable. I regard the Mod A as having a sort of hit or miss grounding. I realize that if your starter doesn't crank the engine, another cable is probably not going to fix it. This will help good starter be better. Since adding this to one of my cars, I felt the advantage in higher cranking speed was enough to put it on the the other two cars. I merely made a short cable to connect with the same frame flange and bolt that the normal ground attaches to and connected the other end to a bell housing bolt. Maybe a one hour investment in time.
Terry
Sorry, I didn't remember that I had already stated this. But I will say this, The Mod A's normal ground strap connects to the frame flange, not the transmission.

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Old 08-03-2016, 01:12 PM   #115
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So since I will be rebuilding the speedometer this weekend, I had a couple of questions.

When I got the car, there was no speedometer and the dash would have used the round speedometer. I have had to change the tank, and the spare tank that came with the car uses the oval speedometer. So, I have no idea what the actual mileage is for my car. I know the previous owner rebuilt the engine, but I'm unsure how many miles he put on the car before he parked it.

Should I reset the odometer to "00000" and just log the miles that I put on the car, or should I make sure the odometer reads what it did as I found it?

Looks like the odometer had "68948" Miles on it.
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:32 PM   #116
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I would just set it to all zeros since the actual milage is unknown.
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:48 PM   #117
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No telling if that mileage was original, so when I had mine refurbished recently, I had it set to zero. I have not notified my insurance company about it, but if they ask for annual mileage I can show them what was done and report accurately as to how many miles i have on my pickup at that time. It is a personal choice, but to me, the original mileage was just guess work in looking at the odometer before I had it refurbished. Mine is a daily driver, so I had not problems with asking it to be reset to zero, myself.
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:42 PM   #118
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So I finally had a little time, and $$, to get some of the parts needed to work on my A some more. I found the emergency/parking brake handle in one of the tubs of parts I got from the previous owners wife. So, I figured I would try and get the emergency brakes connected. I had to purchase all new brake rods. My issue is that I believe the previous owner put later model radius rods on the car. Not sure of the year or anything, but it won't allow me to connect the e-brake levers.




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Old 10-22-2016, 09:23 PM   #119
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The radius rods and backing plates look like early 28 that didn't have the separate emergency brake.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:29 AM   #120
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That rear radius rod is for sure early 1928 which had the single brake system . You pulled on the handbrake which set all brakes front and rear .This system was illegal in most of Europe and some USA states as they required a separate emergency brake . This forced Ford to bring out an emergency brake which was separate from the service brake . It is easy for you to install the correct rods ,they come in two styles one has forged ends the other flat steel plate either will work just fine . Early 30 had the forged ends .The radius rods you have are fairly rare and you can easily sell them and buy the correct ones and have enough change over for a visit to Texas Steak House !!!
Looks like you also need an emergency brake carrier ,get ones with the "ears" on .Someone on the Barn will post a pic of the difference . The ones with ears locate the emergency brake band better .

John in showers Suffolk County England
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