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Old 05-20-2016, 10:57 PM   #81
lucky_stripe_garage
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

So while out draining the vinegar from the gas tank I noticed that the paint on the underside was starting to bubble in a few spots. So the tank had to come out.



And....a couple of hours of working and hunting down all of the different screws etc. it's out. Now to prep the spare tank and get it installed.



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Old 05-24-2016, 01:51 PM   #82
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I got everything reinstalled. Well, mostly, I still have to install the windshield. Doesn't look too bad considering.


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Old 06-04-2016, 07:31 PM   #83
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So got everything buttoned up today, minus the hood. Decided to take it for its maiden voyage around the parking lot real quick. It still doesn't like the lower RPMs. But it's alive.


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Old 06-05-2016, 03:40 PM   #84
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Trying to get my horn working correctly. I've removed the horn button and cleaned every contact. If I connect the wires one way the horn continuously sounds. (So I loosened the screw on the diaphragm to keep the noise down some.) But if I connect the wires the other way the horn won't sound at all. Any ideas?

As always thank you for all of the help.


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Old 06-05-2016, 06:40 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky_stripe_garage View Post
Trying to get my horn working correctly. I've removed the horn button and cleaned every contact. If I connect the wires one way the horn continuously sounds. (So I loosened the screw on the diaphragm to keep the noise down some.) But if I connect the wires the other way the horn won't sound at all. Any ideas?

As always thank you for all of the help.


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Do you have a picture of your horn? It sounds like an aftermarket horn that grounds through the body, rather than by the horn button. You may need to use a relay to send power to the horn, or you could wire up a separate horn button, like a door bell button.
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Old 06-05-2016, 06:42 PM   #86
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Tom -

I can go down and take a few pictures when I get back him. The wires that come out of the horn don't match the wires from the harness.


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Old 06-05-2016, 07:24 PM   #87
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Here's a few pictures. If there's anything else that would help identify it just let me know.








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Old 06-05-2016, 08:07 PM   #88
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

You know, that looks just like one my brother had in the 60's while in high school..is it 12 volt?

I don't have an original horn either...
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:09 PM   #89
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Not sure. How would I check if it's 12v or 6v? It's what came with the car. It was in the back seat when we pulled it out of the garage.


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Old 06-05-2016, 08:16 PM   #90
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Good question...I guess it isn't marked.......I suppose a 12v horn would be pretty sluggish when connected to 6v, and a 6v horn would be really loud if connected to 12v....??

There are several similar horns on ebay...Maybe it's a Hutchins?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-12-V...NXRtvF&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:38 PM   #91
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It's pretty loud when it works. But then again I'm usually right next to it when it goes off. Haha. There's no tags on it.


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Old 06-05-2016, 08:43 PM   #92
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

My guess is repo 12v. horn.

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Old 06-05-2016, 09:07 PM   #93
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They are pretty simple...an electric motor with a ratchet sort of disc that hits raised portions of the diaphragm..

If you take it apart you might find a maker's mark inside....and just a good cleaning of the commutator may help
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:18 PM   #94
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So, would the wire that makes it sound when connected be the power and the other be the ground if it is a 12v horn??


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Old 06-05-2016, 09:21 PM   #95
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

l suspect that it is a repro sold by JC Whitney, Western Auto, Sears, etc. None of the original horns had a bright bell, they were all black.

As to the voltage, even the new 12v Spartan horns that A&L sells are marked 6 volts. The one I bought came with a slip of paper saying that even though it was marked 6v, it was really 12v. They only make the ID tags that say 6v.
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:22 PM   #96
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Default Re: My 1930 Model A

That is a Hutchins horn from the 60's or 70's, made in St. Charles, MO.
They came in 6 or 12 volts. One wire is hot, the other is ground. I've had a couple of them. They work and sound OK - for a repro horn.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:44 AM   #97
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I would remove the cover and see where the wires go. You can also use an ohm meter to see if either wire goes to ground. Connect an ohm meter, or continuity tester to one wire and the horn body to see it there is any continuity. There shouldn't be if you want to wire it as original with the horn button doing the grounding for the horn.

My 29 Tudor had the same 6 volt Hutchins horn and it sounded great. It just doesn't look right, so I sold it on ebay and used the money to buy an original horn.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:43 PM   #98
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New problem. Most of the weekend the A started. It got easier every time I started her up. It developed a small fuel leak right after the sediment bowl, which has since been fixed. I ran the car to get the last bit of gas out of the fuel like after that to minimize the gas on the floor. After it died the first time I tried to restart it and it wouldn't even crank. It sounds like I'm just bumping the starter, but I have the starter butting pressed.

I pulled the starter off this evening after work pulled everything apart and cleaned it all up. Lubed up the starter drive and shaft. Reinstalled everything and it's still doing the same thing.

The battery is still fully charged, it will crank by hand. (I've never been able to start it by hand though.) So, I'm not sure what else to check.

Thanks as always.


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Old 06-07-2016, 09:56 PM   #99
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You might try taking the starter switch apart if you haven't already and cleaning the copper contacts...

I replaced most of the inner parts on mine...second picture
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:58 PM   #100
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I did do that while I had everything off. I tried to eliminate as many things from the starter as I could.


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