Now you know the rest of the story!

[Bill Goddard]

Fred, your lower dull colored CM is for a '29 because the rad mounting pads are flush with the top of the CM. The shinny one is for a 30-32 because it has resessed -I think -rad mtg pads and a hole on the left side(viewed from the driver's seat) for the radiator overflow tube.

VCS2, your CM is for a '30-31 because it has recessed rad mounting pads and the hole for the radiator overflow hose on the left end (viewed from driver's seat)

[shuttlebuggy]

When did Ford change the front engine mounting from the two bolts in the back of the cross member to the saddle with the three springs?

[Cool Hand Lurker]

This is for the 30-31. The 28-29 crossmembers have the higher, non-recessed radiator mount pads.

[columbiA]

No one cut the frame horns off back in the day to replace the C M.With the C M removed the frame is quite flimsy and will be no trouble to get the new C M in place.The 28 C M,s had the two ribs pressed in the lower channel & the front mounts were often cut off so the later flexible mount could be used.

[28ACoupe]

Originally Posted by shuttlebuggy

When did Ford change the front engine mounting from the two bolts in the back of the cross member to the saddle with the three springs?

To get rid of engine vibration. It was a service bulletin.

[Fred K-OR]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by columbiA

No one cut the frame horns off back in the day to replace the C M.With the C M removed the frame is quite flimsy and will be no trouble to get the new C M in place.The 28 C M,s had the two ribs pressed in the lower channel & the front mounts were often cut off so the later flexible mount could be used.

Thanks for the info. Looks like the one C M I have is a 28.

[Brentwood Bob]

nix on better cinder blocks. You probably need a set of jack stands anyway. I like the large ones, what's a few more dollars. I can use the large ones to hold the rear end up when I pull the rearend. Bob

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

nix on better cinder blocks. You probably need a set of jack stands anyway. I like the large ones, what's a few more dollars. I can use the large ones to hold the rear end up when I pull the rearend. Bob

Four legged jack stands are more steady than 3 legged ... worth the extra money!

I agree NEVER use cinderblocks.

Just for anyone reading this thread in the future that does not know this.

Cinder blocks are just plain dangerious no matter which way they are placed.

I saw a guy testing/running a car held up by cinderblocks once. The engine vibrations cracked a cinderblock on each side of the axle. Down went the axle with the wheels installed and turning. The car went out the garage in reverse and down the driveway.

Luckily he was standing in front of the car and transmission was in reverse!

If you are spinning the wheels when on stands ... have someone in the driver's seat to stop the car and use wheel chocks on the other two wheels.

[CarlG]

After purchasing a pair of 3-ton, and a pair of 4-ton jack stands, I found out that it takes at least 6-ton jack stands to adequately support the frame for a rear end removal.

[Bill Goddard]

CarlG, I think you are saying its not the weight rating but the footprint. The wider the better. Bill G

[Fred K-OR]

Well the front cross member is back in!!!! YAAA. It slipped right in. Bolted it down and it looks like a good driver cross member. I took the right shock absorber off and angled it a bit, tapped it a bit and it slid right in.

P.S. Guys I did beef up the supports under the car. I did put the cinder blocks flat with boards on top. Also have a second support sitting on my hydraulic jack. Plus I do not plan on being under the rig until I get it back on the front axle.

Thanks again for all your ideas and help.

[jw hash]

Fred
use the glossy one, it is correct for 29 the other one is early 28 that the back flang used to extend up and bolted to the front of motor someone has cut it off. the big diffrence 29 and 30-31 is the 29 radiator pads is same level as the top flang of the frame, on the 30-31 cross member the radiator pads are about 7/16" below the top flang of the frame

[Fred K-OR]

I did go ahead and use the glossy one. It matched the one I took out and seemed to be in better shape.

Thanks guys for all the ideas and help. Think I am on the way to get the "new" engine back in the rig one of these days.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Bill Goddard

CarlG, I think you are saying its not the weight rating but the footprint. The wider the better. Bill G

Also, the height they will raise and still be stable. The 4-ton pair wouldn't lift the frame high enough to get the rear end with spring attached out from under it.

The 3-ton is quite adequate if you are supporting the car from the axle.

[1931 flamingo]

CarlG: The whole car only weighs about 2500 lbs. When you were removing rear axle was that with the wheels on??
Paul in CT