Aug/Sept project 2 to make 1 39 std cpe on sdn pan

[Newc]

Hi: youall will enjoy my misery, as I put this worn out cpe on a nice solid sdn pan. Both 39 Std's;The cpe was destined to be a race car until the sedan was found with a salvage title and a solid floor. I've never done this, but plenty of local V8ers have, sooo this a start post and I am 3weeks behind schedule as it is an outside job. Any advise is good and youall will get updates. I am using the sdn cowl and header- plan to cut just above the wiper towers as the sdn roof is higher, then cut at the rear fender mount points curve. Later Newc

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Newc

Hi: youall will enjoy my misery, as I put this worn out cpe on a nice solid sdn pan. Both 39 Std's;The cpe was destined to be a race car until the sedan was found with a salvage title and a solid floor. I've never done this, but plenty of local V8ers have, sooo this a start post and I am 3weeks behind schedule as it is an outside job. Any advise is good and youall will get updates. I am using the sdn cowl and header- plan to cut just above the wiper towers as the sdn roof is higher, then cut at the rear fender mount points curve. Later Newc

[GB SISSON]

Gol darnit Newc, while that isn't Arizona sheet metal. it is some fine looking beginnings from the Pacific NW. I see no reason why you can't come up with a really nice car with your efforts. I dream of some kind of easy driving V8 ford car and you know I have been 100% truck, but a warmed up V8 in a coupe could really get an old timer's blood flowing. I'm all in on this build!

[swoopNZ]

I would not separate both cars at their pillars.
Cut out the sedan floor and install it in the coupe.
It will then retain much more of it's originality.
Sedan and coupe rear floor sections are way different.
Somebody may then buy the sedan and install another floor.
Another option is to buy new Drake/Carpenter or United Panel front and rear floor sections and install them in the coupe.
Not a big job.

[JSeery]

Not sure I follow the reasoning on this. Why not just remove the subrails and floor pan from the sedan and move them over to the coupe? Messing with the door alignment in the cowl area seems like a bad plan.

[JHFORD51]

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I'd recommend removing the spot welds that hold the sedan rear floor to the front floor pan, drilling the spot welds at front cowl and behind c pillar, and then installing sedan front floor pans and rockers as an assembly in the coupe. Then I'd repeat with applicable portions of the rear section, although the coupe rear floor is different than the sedan.

Use lots of bracing and check door fitment often.

Although it looks scary, it's not a bad job once you start. Real simple the way these are put together.

If you need cows off the sedan for the coupe, I'd suggest making the splice in the trim line.

[JHFORD51]

Cowls...not cows!

[Newc]

Thanks for the interest; I have less than $2K in this experiment and am continuing as originally planned- cpe shell onto the 4dr pan. today's progress is about 2.5 hrs and was fun . A real learning experience. I even neglected to prebrace the components. what the heck- it is a 'beater' project so far. Photos here. And getting out of the cab while a load is up is a real no-no. Newc

[V8COOPMAN]

Man, I'm gonna go cook me a bucket of popcorn, 'cuz this just might get interesting! DD

[tub1]

I'm wondering why not cut the windscreen pillars easy join that way

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Newc

Thanks for the interest; I have less than $2K in this experiment and am continuing as originally planned- cpe shell onto the 4dr pan. today's progress is about 2.5 hrs and was fun . A real learning experience. I even neglected to prebrace the components. what the heck- it is a 'beater' project so far. Photos here. And getting out of the cab while a load is up is a real no-no. Newc

[Newc]

tub1 is right except the rust damage in the cpe header is extreme. However I need to check the angle of the cpe header skin vs the sdn skin angle. On another similar swap there was a problem with the higher sdn roof. Taking a brief break. thanks Newc

[Newc]

Well a week+ later- made some progress to the final product. Tub1 was right about the A pillars, even more important [too late] I found the windshield angles are different- all the way to the cowl or windshield base! so I cut about 3 " too high for perfection. Anyway this coupe has been dubbed the 'Franken Coupe" for all its parts. Photos here, and I have NO help at all. the beer drinkers seem to know just when to show up later. Newc

[Newc]

I did this wrong; New photos here. Kind of looks like a '39 std cpe?? Newc

[tub1]

cool job well done

[TJ]

Hopefully the doors will fit without too much work. Interesting project.

[rockfla]

What size are the A/T tires on the front of the sedan and are the any good, might could use them on a early jeep project?

[mercman from oz]

Great progress. This swap is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work.

[tub1]

now use the doors to set the gaps before you fire up the welding torch , exactly what I did with a 35 sedan and 35 ute some years ago it worked out sweet

['36 5W]

Good advice from tub^^^. You may find the body a bit tweaked,
so door gaps will be a good place to start. Take many measure-
ments to be sure body AND frame are square, before and after bolting body down to frame.

Hell of a project to be tackling alone; you must have ice in your
veins and nerves of steel!

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Nice work!

[Newc]

Well; Have some good progress to show. Proceeded with the fitting and started with the A pillars fit- looked good and the windshield dimensions were right so the A pillars got tacked. Then moved to the B pillars base and light tack for later checking. Put on the junker doors and a Big OH NO! B pillars were 3/8" to short! Spliced in some extra B pillar material and the doors FIT. Even the revel lined up! Next: the long wheel well joint. this one looked like trouble. Found the problem- the floor did not have its rubber spacers under it and had drooped. Lifted the floor and the fender wells FIT! So welded them up! Now I have a " '39 Franken Coupe". I have to construct a rear pan repair as I banged the coupe into a tree when dragging it out of it's hiding place in my woods. Photos Newc

[Newc]

Well; I just lost a big post?? Fitted the coupe shell to the sdn pan and the A pillars lined up so tacked them. Windshield dimensions were good. Next moved to the B pillars and tacked them. Fitted the junker doors and Trouble! B pillars were 3/8" too short! Had to splice in some extra B pillar material and Yippee! the doors lined up. Now the long wheel well seam-- did not match. The rear floor was too low cause the rubber pads were missing and the floor drooped. Raised the floor and perfect fit-welded that seam up! Now I've got a '39 Franken Coupe". Photos: This post is challenging me. Two '39 4drs have given their all to this project and are still available for parts. Double post cause I lost the photos first time- OOPS. Newc
Notice the Smoke in last photo- 1/8th mile visibility now- Oregon's fires.

[Mart]

Excellent work, Newc.

[JSeery]

Think you made a wise decision cutting the windshield pillars vs attempting to weld along the top roof line. Looks like it is really coming alone!

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Newc

Well; Have some good progress to show. Proceeded with the fitting and started with the A pillars fit- looked good and the windshield dimensions were right so the A pillars got tacked. Put on the junker doors and a Big OH NO! B pillars were 3/8" to short! Spliced in some extra B pillar material and the doors FIT. Even the revel lined up!

If you used FORDOR front doors on the coupe....well FORDOR and COUPE doors are the same, EXCEPT at the upper, rear corners. The sedan doors are roughly 5/16"- 3/8" or so taller because of the longer, rearward-rising slope on a sedan roof, as compared to a coupe. You can see the difference below. It's amazing what you ARE accomplishing, though!! DD

[flatford8]

And to think I was sissy scared to put a Coupe trunk section on my ‘51 Tudor because I thought it was to much to handle because I always work alone. Your making the big jobs look easy!!!......nice work!!......Mark

[tub1]

it going great congratulations

[The 39 Guy]

You are one brave man. Hope it all fit's back together okay. I will be watching.

[Newc]

Got a good day to work : Fitted the original cpe trunk lid-fixed the hinge mount studs [overhead welding], old trunk lid adj'd well. Then started on the tail pan fit. putting a Carpenter pan on a coupe with a sdn floor! The original joints had to be cleaned of lead and opened up. Lots of lead- seems the original factory fellows just dented the metal so extra lead would fill the joint. Oddly the Ford seam is the same as the Carpenter seam. They are Both 'innies'! Huh?? I need an innie and an outie! The original was torch welded and spot welded, it has to be really clean for a wire feed today. Also the original pan fit inside the wheel wells. All very interesting cause this pan is the key to the whole rear fit. Photos for now. Oh, yea, the 'Kibitzers' are circling now that it looks like a coupe For Sale. heh heh, later Newc

[Newc]

Did it again; Photos here Newc

[JSeery]

Love the body hammer!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Love the body hammer!

[Newc]

Nice cool Smokey weather-so kept on the job. Photos; 5 hrs getting a fair fit of the Carpenter pan. Left and right a bit different???? the trunk lid is the original one and tired. '39 cpe trunk lids , do not have the '40 X brace and warp/bend easily. But it is what we have. Going to keep at it all weekend. Newc

[petehoovie]

Photos; 5 hrs getting a fair fit of the Carpenter pan. Left and right a bit different???? the trunk lid is the original one and tired. '39 cpe trunk lids , do not have the '40 X brace and warp/bend easily.

[Newc]

A little more work; Had to rebuild the tool tray and form the tray lip that contacts the rear 'pan' Lots of curves and I needed a brake and a shrinker, but made do without. There are a bunch of parts that go in the rear and I'll sandblast before final assembly. Newc

['36 5W]

That tail-pan looks like a pretty good fit. Is it an EMS brand?
Nice work!