The Ford Barn

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-26-2014, 08:11 PM

Observation: "Almost" anybody can be convinced of "almost" anything, if it is repeated to them enough times! BUT, "they" might only agree with you, to SHUT you up!
Chief always said, "REPETITION IS THE MOTHER OF LEARNING & THE FATHER OF BOREDOM"!
Bill W.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-26-2014, 08:19 PM

We'd probably get along just fine, with a MEDIUM FIRM pull, on an 18" flex handle! (I'm SERIOUS!)
Bill W.

Purdy Swoft · 10-26-2014, 09:12 PM

Actually there was a spark plug and head nut wrench included in the original tool pouch that was the correct length to use with common sense. I used a wrench on the head nuts probably for the first thirty years of model A ownership

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-26-2014, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Actually there was a spark plug and head nut wrench included in the original tool pouch that was the correct length to use with common sense. I used a wrench on the head nuts probably for the first thirty years of model A ownership

I remember that wrench, Chief pulled it with ONE hand, I was young & had to use BOTH hands.
Bill W.

Pete · 10-26-2014, 10:28 PM

There are several metals that expand on cooling.
A couple:
Cubic zirconium tungstate.

Gallium.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-26-2014, 10:51 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete

There are several metals that expand on cooling.
A couple:
Cubic zirconium tungstate.

Gallium.

And some SEMICONDUCTORS have a negative coefficient
Bill W.

tbirdtbird · 10-26-2014, 11:03 PM

Here we go again.

Search the old threads, this has been discussed ad nauseum.

And this method,
"I back off the head studs about 1/8 turn then re-torque the nut..That breaks the friction lock before checking torque."

is not industry standard, so you are taking your chances, esp with the famous #8 stud, leaking water into the cylinder

Do it however you want. If you go by myth and supposition instead of by industry standards used by mechanics for decades, be ready to do it again

10-26-2014, 08:11 PM	#21
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: head torquing Observation: "Almost" anybody can be convinced of "almost" anything, if it is repeated to them enough times! BUT, "they" might only agree with you, to SHUT you up! Chief always said, "REPETITION IS THE MOTHER OF LEARNING & THE FATHER OF BOREDOM"! Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

10-26-2014, 08:19 PM	#22
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: head torquing We'd probably get along just fine, with a MEDIUM FIRM pull, on an 18" flex handle! (I'm SERIOUS!) Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

10-26-2014, 09:12 PM	#23
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: head torquing Actually there was a spark plug and head nut wrench included in the original tool pouch that was the correct length to use with common sense. I used a wrench on the head nuts probably for the first thirty years of model A ownership

10-26-2014, 10:28 PM	#25
Pete Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,409	Re: head torquing There are several metals that expand on cooling. A couple: Cubic zirconium tungstate. Gallium.

10-26-2014, 11:03 PM	#27
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: head torquing Here we go again. Search the old threads, this has been discussed ad nauseum. And this method, "I back off the head studs about 1/8 turn then re-torque the nut..That breaks the friction lock before checking torque." is not industry standard, so you are taking your chances, esp with the famous #8 stud, leaking water into the cylinder Do it however you want. If you go by myth and supposition instead of by industry standards used by mechanics for decades, be ready to do it again __________________ '31 180A