Rear spring wear

[crumbaa]

After blasting the rear springs from our 1930 Cabriolet I noticed the wear on the leaves from the leaf above it. Is this too much?, should they be replace? I seem to remember reading something about some type of nylon shim or washer that is put between the springs out at the ends. There was nothing between the spring when I took them apart so a must have been reading about some other spring pack. Any advice regarding next step for these springs would be appreciated.

[Patrick L.]

I just grind them smooth and taper/chamfer the bottom edge.

[Charlie Stephens]

The "Posey" aftermarket rear spring comes with a recess and a Teflon button on the end.

Charlie Stephens

[QGolden]

I cleaned mine up with a grinder and reassembled with nylon sliders.

[dave in australia]

Originally, the leaves sat metal to metal. After blasting the rust off, give the leaves a slight linish in the direction of movement, as well as removing the lip of the worn area. On the lower surface of each leave, taper the ends slightly away from the next leaf with the linisher belt as well. Spray a graphite based lube on the mating surfaces. Some use a wet graphite and some like myself use a dry lube. I use molybond 122. Reassemble the spring and then paint.

[Brentwood Bob]

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a belt sander gives good results. after coating the mating surfaces with the graphite paint and reassembly, then paint the assembled spring with enamel black paint. Treat the assembled spring like a loaded weapon. If it cuts loose your forehead will not impeed it, Or any other part of your body, for that matter.
Bob

[Tom Cavallaro]

I did the same as Brentwood Bob, I used the graphite used for our RR switch points after tapering the ends with the grinder. I also measured the distance in rise at the center of the arch, when removed then tweaked each one in a vice with a 24in. wrench starting athe middle moving out 3in. at a time. When finished and ready to install it measured at the arch 5/8 of an inch higher. If I ever get the guts to remove the rear I will do the same.

[crumbaa]

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. As always great help.

So it sounds like most people grind out the lip that was created on the lower spring, grind a chamfer on ends of the bottom side of the upper spring, and use a graphite lube between that springs. Some put nylon slip pads between the leaves at the tips. Just want to be clear, do you prime and paint all leaves separately or just as a unit after they are reassembled?

I read some articles about rear springs that spooked me enough that we made a spring spreader (pic attached). Glad we did, that spring pack holds allot energy.

[crumbaa]

sorry, some how the pic did not attach.

[Brentwood Bob]

the unpainted leaves are coated with the graphite then assembled and the assembled, unpainted spring is then painted.

[crumbaa]

Thanks Bob, I appreciate the help.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I grind the wear marks as noted earlier, then paint each leaf, then apply the grease and graphite, and reassemble. I like spring covers to keep out the dirt and hold in the grease.

[crumbaa]

Thanks Tom, I was concerned about getting the paint to stick to the edges of the springs if I paint them after putting the graphite on and putting them together. I lik ethe looks of yours. I have not seen those covers before, but i see them on MAC'site now.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by crumbaa

Thanks Tom, I was concerned about getting the paint to stick to the edges of the springs if I paint them after putting the graphite on and putting them together. I lik ethe looks of yours. I have not seen those covers before, but i see them on MAC'site now.

The last I knew there were at least two makers of the covers. Bert's in Denver and Little Dearborn in Minneapolis sell the better of the two.

[dave in australia]

Originally Posted by crumbaa

Thanks Tom, I was concerned about getting the paint to stick to the edges of the springs if I paint them after putting the graphite on and putting them together. I lik ethe looks of yours. I have not seen those covers before, but i see them on MAC'site now.

After assembling with the graphite between the leaves, give the outside of the spring assembly a good wipe with a wax and grease remover before painting. Use a rag soaked in the cleaner as opposed to pouring the cleaner on as a liquid. This will stop the graphite from being washed out from between the leaves. I keep cleaning until the rag no longer stains after wiping the spring. Then prime and top coat.

[mrraford]

Second attempt. The buttons here can distract you sometimes.
I've been redoing front and rear springs for about 20. I hate rust so I have all of the leaves blasted clean for inspection. Then I paint all surfaces thoroughly to do my best to prevent rust. After this I bevel the ends of the offending leaves so they do not continue to dig into the leaf below. Why add more wear by grinding on the worn surface?
While the leaves are apart is a good time to press in new bushings. The main leaf is much easier to handle at this stage than when fully assembled.
After the inspection and beveling, I paint the underside of all but the main leaf with graphite paint. I use the implement graphite that is available from tractor dealers, as I recall it's called something like Slip Plate. I could be wrong on that. After applying graphite, I reassemble. The warnings about safety are well worth the time to consider. I also remove the excess graphite from the edges of the assembled spring and apply another coat of semi-gloss. I hate rust.
Haven't had a problem with any of those springs.