Hydraulic Brake Light Switch

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Uh oh.

Yes, no kidding. I've used a NOS one since with no issues, but that was a scary moment

[Aarongriffey]

I saw a HeryJ blow a switch right where I was walking many years ago.
The car ran up on the trunk of fairly new Chevy.
One time an old lady in St. Paul was driving her ‘50 Plymouth down the corkscrew drive of a parking ramp when the switch blew out.
Fortunately she thought to pull the hand brake.
Having worked in the business since 1955 I have known of quite a few that blew out, however it is not a major problem, it’s just that it is easy to replace it with a mechanical switch.

[moonraker]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a related question. My brake light switch is acting strangely. It functions fine for the first 10-15 minutes of driving then quits. Brakes work with no issues. What can be possible cause of such behavior?

[TFB]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Hey. If you are worried about a blow out on a brake switch, go back to original mechanical brakes on your 35. Give us a break man. I've been in this hobby for over 50 years and have NEVER had a brake light switch "blow out" as you seem to be worried about. Fail to work electrically, yes. Leak a little, yes. BLOWOUT, never, and have never even heard of one blowing out.

Thanks for your input L.C., you know 44 years ago when I got this car, and drove it without a care; I felt the same way that you do.

And as for mechanical brakes, I've collected those parts too, over the years; just to have them, but never intended to put them on because I don't think that is the safest system available to me.

However this is not 1976, and I'm not young and reckless anymore, I look at things differently now, especially when it comes to STOPPING.

Just because your 50 yr experience tells you it's highly unlikely I'll have a switch failure, that's not reassuring to me. My 40+ years in mechanical maintenance has shown me several things... parts fail when you least expect, part quality is subject to constant economic pressure and counterfeiting, and plastic has replaced several other stronger materials used over the years in manufacturing.

So you can't now say that you've never heard of a BLOWOUT, you see the above picture, you've read accounts of several members in this thread. I hope it never happens to you or anyone, but I can assure it won't happen to me because I'm not reinstalling one when I make my changes.

Larson obviously think that this is overkill on my part, you're entitled to that opinion, however I won't (as you say), "give you a break" unless you give me a break and realize that just because you're not bothered by an hydraulic switch on a single MC system, it doesn't mean the potential for a catastrophic failure caused by a $20 part doesn't exist, or the concern isn't real.

As for this mod, since I'm starting fresh with this, I'll consider all the helpful information that's been provided, including the alternate MC choices suggested, I'm grateful for all the input. Thanks everyone.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by Gary

The HD switch is the most reliable and easiest to install

I just replaced a HD. switch that stuck closed- they're not perfect.
This is on a stock, electrically unmodified 2007 Dyna, under 10k miles

[TFB]

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On the topic of MC choice, I realize there are trade offs concerning bore sizes. I mentioned the Mustang 1" bore earlier because many who changed went in that direction. However there are reports that if you lose one half of the system, the limited pedal travel in these early fords will not provide enough braking in the remaining system half before you run out of pedal.

So I'm researching other options like the late '70 E250 Econoline which has a 1 1/16" bore like the single MC, but a larger body. I don't know how that will fit, but we'll see.

I'll post a thread as I proceed with the project. Thanks All!