Ooga horn help

[51PanelMan]

I have three "aftermarket" 6v ooga horns. Two are the Hutchins brand and the third is of unknown brand. I have tested each horn and all are in working order. However, two of them are not sounding correct. The only one that sounds close to an ooga horn is the one in the middle of the picture. The horns on each end sound the same and have a steady sound, if that makes sense. I have tried adjusting the horn on the left with the adjusting nut/bolt, but the sound remains the same. I do not see any external adjustment bolt/nut/screw on the horn on the right end. I have tried adjusting the inner "gear" that rotates and rubs against the diaphragm.

I really want to install these horns into each one of my vehicles, but am only satisfied with the sound of the horn in the middle. Does any one have any suggestions on how to get the two horns on the end to sound more like an "ooga"? Do these horns require lubrication and if so, how and where should they be lubricated? Does the inner "gear" that makes contact with the bolt on the diaphragm need to be adjusted? Does the bolt on the diaphragm also need to be adjusted? If so, how is that done?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Tom Wesenberg]

As you can see on your horns the adjustment is the screw in the diaphram. I lubricate the wavy washer and both motor busings. My 29 Tudor had an older 6 volt repro like the left or center one you show, and it had a sound as good as any original horn.

[51PanelMan]

Thanks.

What did you lubricate it with? Was it just regular oil or grease? Also, the adjustment on the diaphragm, do I just play with the slotted screws on the top side (and allen screw in the other) to adjust the sound, or do I need to loosen and adjust the nuts that are holding the threaded bolt to the diaphragm?

[Keith True]

I don't think you'll ever get the cracked diaphragm in one picture to sound right.That gives them a weird dull groan.If they spin fast and free you will get the oog on the motor windup,and the ga on the slowdown.If anything is sticky or tight they will just stop when you cut the power,no ga on the wind down.

[51PanelMan]

Not sure where you're seeing the crack in the diaphragm. The "crack" that you may be seeing is the fold over of the metal joint on the horn housing. None of the diaphragms appear to have damage. All motors spin free and are not binding.

[Keith True]

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The picture that looks like it has a cracked diaphragm is below the one showing the seam in the bell.It looks like it has a white line of light running across it,and it looks like a crack in the line of light,above and left of the screw.It could just be something stuck on it,with the picture making it look like a crack.I have a couple that look like that.The cracks never showed up until I took the diaphragms out and bent them by hand.Then the cracks jumped right out at me.Also,are you positive these are 6 volt horns?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I use Mystik grease on the wavy washer and motor oil on the motor bushings.

Keith brings up a good point about the voltage.

[51PanelMan]

I've had all of these horns apart previously and the diaphragms were straight and did not have any cracks that I could see immediately.

Both of the Hutchins brand horns (left and middle) have a 6 Volt sticker on the housing. The third horn doesn't have any markings. It spins at about the same speed as the other horns and it had cloth wires, so I'm assuming that it's also 6 volts.

On the last horn (not the two Hutchins) I noticed that the waivy washer has an allen head set screw holding the washer to the shaft of the motor. This washer can also be adjusted up and down. Does this washer also need to be set at the correct height on the shaft?

[leo]

I believe the horn on the right is also a Hutchins with a Jubilee motor from Korea, perhaps a prototype before Hutchins opted to make a motor of their own design.....

[Joe K]

I have found the adjustment for these to be "touchy." Only a small difference in how close the pointed set screw is to the toothed wheel makes a BIG difference in the sound - or lack thereof. (Too close and the toothed wheel "locks" on the setscrew of course. )

You also want the "other" end of the motor shaft to touch the positioner. This way you get a consistent "touch" between the diaphragm setscrew and the toothed wheel.

You may have an issue with "magnetic center" if you find the motor shaft "moves" as you apply the current. (you can google this and learn about how large electric motors are always run uncoupled from their driven machine, the magnetic center determined, and then the motor coupling set so the motor runs "in" it's magnetic center. )

Anyway, play around with it.

OBTW, I have the Hutchins/J.C. Whitney/Western Auto horns in both 6v and 12V versions. The 12V horn when run on 6v becomes "polite" (best way I have to describe it.) The 6v horns when run on 12V will jerk themselves out of your hand when you apply the current - most unpolite!

Joe K

[leo]

Hey Joe K,
Can you give me any input on how to tell the difference between a Hutchins 6 and 12 volt horn? The sticker they put on the bell is often gone and that was the only place they noted the difference in voltage. I find it puzzling that with millions of these horns having been made there is so little information about their motor design and wiring......