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Old 03-18-2012, 02:41 PM   #1
txmike
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Default Water Pump

Ok I have always been told no question is dumb - but who can help a rookie?
I am trying to take a fan blade off a water pump (repo leakless) and I need to know how to get the blade off after I remove the nut? I tried some light taps bwith a rubber hammer but see no movement?

Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:26 PM   #2
1931 flamingo
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Default Re: Water Pump

This may work: Hang the water pump between your knees with blade resting on your knees, thread a nut part way onto the shaft, hit the nut with a sharp blow. Might work. others will chime in I'm sure.
paul in CT
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:14 PM   #3
30modelA
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Default Re: Water Pump

sounds good flamingo, dont forget wd40
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #4
glenn in camino
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Default Re: Water Pump

A rubber hammer won't work. Put the nut on until it's even with the end of the shaft to keep from messing up the threads and hit it with a real hammer. May take more than once.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:08 PM   #5
Milton
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Default Re: Water Pump

Also, instead of your knees, use something solid like a pair of wood blocks as close together as possible. That way the force applied will not be absorbed by the elasticity of your body.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:55 PM   #6
Brentwood Bob
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Default Re: Water Pump

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Keep the support under the pully, not the fan blades. When you remove the fan blade closely inspect it for fatigue cracks. Use KROIL, or or other rust dissolver. No heat. Then use a wire brush to cleanup the shaft. Are you rebuilding the Water Pump? Bob
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:12 PM   #7
txmike
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Default Re: Water Pump

No rebuild - just replacing the fan with one of those 4 blade jobs

I have a problem that the fan keeps hitting the upper radiator hose. I have tried raising the radiator by putting rubber shims under it but still not luck

if any one has any suggestions on that I would prefer to keep the 2 blade
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #8
Keith True
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Default Re: Water Pump

Take an old head stud and nut,screw the nut halfway onto the shaft,then screw the stud into the other half.Tighten it right up with a pair of pliers or vice-grips.You now have a punch you can hit hard that is dead on the shaft with a nut to keep it from moving and is preserving the threads.All the striking force will be transmitted from the head stud to the pump shaft,with none through the threads.Pick the whole thing up with your hand,palm up,by spreading your fingers and sliding them under the pulley.Use the other hand to hit that head stud with a 3 pound hammer.Hit it like you mean it,and don't try to get away with a little ball-peen hammer.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #9
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Water Pump

I remove the fan exactly as Keith said. It's the safest way for the fan, and threads, and works every time. I don't use a three pound hammer though, but most of the time I use my 2 pound brass hammer.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:43 AM   #10
James Rogers
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Default Re: Water Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by txmike View Post
No rebuild - just replacing the fan with one of those 4 blade jobs

I have a problem that the fan keeps hitting the upper radiator hose. I have tried raising the radiator by putting rubber shims under it but still not luck

if any one has any suggestions on that I would prefer to keep the 2 blade
Might be your front mount is not pulled down correctly. Try the hand crank to see if it goes in the ratchet nut through the bearing. If it is hard to get in or just won't go, there is the problem.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:56 AM   #11
Richard Wilson
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Default Re: Water Pump

After screwing up the shaft threads using the hammer and nut method of fan removal I now use a wooden block to go between the nut/end of shaft and the hammer. No more ruined threads from a hammer miss hit.

Also Tim in #9 makes a good point. It will be very obvious if the head is worn when you remove the pump. Vendors sell shafts that have a longer back section to take up the space worn into the engine's head. The collar works to.

Another thing to check is there were two different upper water outlets that are different lengths and angles, 28-29 are 5 3/8" and 30-31 is 6" per Mac's Model A catalog.
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