Modern point set

[Steve Rinaldo]

I read a lot about the modern ignition points set sold by the regular suppliers aren't that good. Who makes the best point set and what is the part number. Thanks, Steve

[alexiskai]

Are you asking just about the points themselves, or are you asking about the best upper plate design?

The modified upper plates work OK overall, it’s just that the point gap is harder to set consistently because of the dual-screw design. Ever since burn-proof condensers were introduced in the ’80s, the sole “benefit” of the modified upper plate has been that hypothetically, while on tour in a strange town, you’d be able to buy a replacement.

[Gene F]

You can also set up spare plate, and all, then change it in a jiffy roadiside.

[Patrick L.]

A good modern point set can be bought at any NAPA store, just get the expensive one. They are a Ford V8 set.

[Oldgearz]

Agree. Stick with NAPA's best. They can look it up.

[GeneBob]

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I like the "Standard Blue Streak" points and condenser. The modern style are the points used on late 1960's and early 1970's ford V8's. The Blue Streak points set have good construction and include a pad for a drop of oil on the cam.

[Will N]

Cracks me up when anyone calls them modern points. Points were last used in new cars, what, 45 years ago? That's modern? The best set of points for a Model A are Model A points. You can still find high quality Motorcraft brand Model A points out there, part number DP-104.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Will N

Cracks me up when anyone calls them modern points. Points were last used in new cars, what, 45 years ago? That's modern? The best set of points for a Model A are Model A points. You can still find high quality Motorcraft brand Model A points out there, part number DP-104.

Yep, me too. Needs to said kinda tongue in cheek huh.

[Patrick L.]

I don't think the problem is the point set itself as long as a quality set is purchased.

The main problem is the 'modern' upper wireless plate which are pretty much a PITA. A wired plate is pretty bullet-proof.

Getting used to setting the points is kind of a learning experience. Its pretty easy if an adjustment slot is ground into the plate so a screwdriver can be easily used.

I installed a 'modern wired upper plate' a couple decades ago just because everyone said they were junk and hard to use. It ran trouble free for over a decade until I decided to re-install the original just for something to do.

[Gene F]

As that block on the point arm wears down, it cuts the power a LOT. You need a certain amount of gap to get the ignition to work well.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Gene F

As that block on the point arm wears down, it cuts the power a LOT. You need a certain amount of gap to get the ignition to work well.

The gap decreases as the rubbing block wears. Its important to keep the rubbing block lubed. Decreased gap retards the base timing. Checking/setting the point gap until the wear settles in is important. Point gap [ .018-.022"] is about coil saturation time.

[Rob Doe]

Nice, timely thread for me and my car.