KR Wilson spring spreader

[Lawson Cox]

Looking for a KR Wilson, or equivalent, spring spreader. Does anyone have one for sale? Send pictures to Lawson Cox, direct email, [email protected].

[19Fordy]

Any chance of posting a photo of what that tool looks like?
Would be neat to see.

[Don Rogers]

Here it is!!

[mercman from oz]

KR Wilson Spring Spreader.

[mercman from oz]

Here is an alternative Spring Spreader, the Litchfield Spring Spreader - Made in Australia.
Notice the Instructions inside the Lid that lists what Combinations are needed for what vehicle, including the small British Ford Prefect and Anglia.

[mercman from oz]

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Litchfield Spring Spreader - Made in Australia.

[mercman from oz]

Another type of early Ford Spring Spreader.

[19Fordy]

Wow, Thanks for posting all those photos. I can see why it's such a desirable tool.

If you ever locate a really big turnbuckle you can make one like this.

[doghair3]

If your in a bind you could get this one here.

https://www.ebay.com/str/macsfabrica...pring+Spreader

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Here is an alternative Spring Spreader, the Litchfield Spring Spreader - Made in Australia.
Notice the Instructions inside the Lid that lists what Combinations are needed for what vehicle, including the small British Ford Prefect and Anglia.

This is the spring spreader I actually had in mind, and have used one like it several times. I like it very much. Does anyone have a Litchfield spring spreader they would part with?

Thanks

[deuce lover]

I have a old Snap On that I found in a closed out shop.I think its from the 30's.The adapter pipes on one end were lost in shipment so made those up

[jimTN]

I use a porta power that has the correct ends in the kit. I think Northern Hyd and Harbor Freight carry those kits. Put the curved ends on pipes with the hyd jack in the middle and pump away.

[russcc]

The best one I have used is the early Snap On. Works smooth as glass, and strong as a bull. If I were to to compare the Snap On to the KR Wilson, the Snap On is simple and a far better design and execution.

[37 Coupe]

I have been looking for one for quite awhile. I ran parts wanted ads both on Fordbarn and Early V8 Club classified to no avail other than the guy from England that will part his car out to get me one.

[Terry,OH]

The K R Wilson spreader as shown in post #4 above will only do the rear spring due to it's over all length. K R W had a associated tool that used in conjunction with their spreader would do the front spring.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

... other than the guy from England that will part his car out to get me one.

That would be interesting!

[Robz51]

Didn't Mart make one of these?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

[Krylon32]

I've got a home made rear spring spreader that my great uncles used in their Ford dealership in the 30's and 40's. It a length of 1 inch ready bolt that slips into some heavy wall tubing with a heavy flat washer welded on 1 end of the tube and the other end smashed flat to a point to wedge in the spring. The ready bolt has a big square nut for adjustment that tightens against the washer with the end of the ready rod also ground flat to fit into the spring. Easy to make of you had access to the materials. I've used it dozens of times over the years in my shop. 30's technology.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by jimTN

I use a porta power that has the correct ends in the kit. I think Northern Hyd and Harbor Freight carry those kits. Put the curved ends on pipes with the hyd jack in the middle and pump away.

I was going to try that myself. Does the HF portapower have plenty of travel for the job?

[HemiDeuce]

[ATTACH]E5C3B624-5732-49F1-B939-3506802ADC29_1_105_c.jpg[/ATTACH

I built this one to clear the Quick Change.

[JWL]

I made mine from a top link of a tractor 3-point hitch. Cheap, works great, and easy adapt.

[glennpm]

I used a Harbor Freight "Porta-Power" on the 40 rear spring in my 32.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by glennpm

I used a Harbor Freight "Porta-Power" on the 40 rear spring in my 32.

I owned one with a friend who died. His daughter sold it, not knowing our arrangement. Too expensive to buy another to use just one time. So goes life.

[Yoyodyne]

Just FWIW a local rental shop rents a 10 ton portapower for $19 for half a day.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

Just FWIW a local rental shop rents a 10 ton portapower for $19 for half a day.

Not around here, at least not one I can locate. I have found a good spring spreader that I can borrow from a friend of a friend. Picking it up in the morning.

Thanks, everybody. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

[v8fordman]

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Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The K R Wilson spreader as shown in post #4 above will only do the rear spring due to it's over all length. K R W had a associated tool that used in conjunction with their spreader would do the front spring.

This piece you speak of is an attachment to the pictured spreader and a VERY rare piece. I have a KRW spreader and have borrowed that piece from a friend to do fronts. I even tried to get a machine shop to mill one for me, but it is complicated and therefore too expensive to do a one off. Always wondered if there were enough spreaders left to create enough interest to have some made?

[Yoyodyne]

Do you have a photo of the attachment?

[1931 flamingo]

Lawson.....................BE CAREFUL ! ! !
Paul in CT

[v8fordman]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

Do you have a photo of the attachment?

I will have to make a picture of it, but it is a unique piece.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Lawson.....................BE CAREFUL ! ! !
Paul in CT

ALWAYS. Too overly cautious at times methinks.

Query: At what point do you stop "spreading" the spring? If you spread it far enough to move the shackle link, does not that remove the pressure on the link? Does spreading the spring farther somehow reduce the pressure on the link, making it easier to remove? Inquiring minds want to know.

[bbrocksr]

Yes, if you spread it far enough to change the angle of the shackle the pressure is reduced. Spreading it farther won,t help much.
Bill

[Yoyodyne]

At the risk of being Mr Obvious, is this to be done in a vehicle or out of the vehicle? If the spring is in a car/truck, you can support the ends of the spring with blocks and/or jacks to take the weight off the shackles and remove them that way. And yes, just slight movement indicates the pressure is off.


This can be safer than a spring spreader, as long as the car is supported safely.

[19Fordy]

Yoyodyne: Seems pretty risky to me.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Yoyodyne: Seems pretty risky to me.

It can be, it's best to have help. I've done it plenty on As and Ts by myself, with just wood blocks between the axle and spring, V8s need more outside support.

[Lawson Cox]

Thanks, bbrocksr, Yoyodyne, and 19Fordy for the comments. I was able to borrow a Litchfield spreader, but unfortunately, it was not a complete spreader as it was missing the shorter piece and therefore about 1/8" too long, and wouldn't work for me. I'm gonna just go ahead and spring for (no pun intended) for a new Porta Power from Harbour Freight and let my heirs figure out what to do with it. LOL

Y'all have really been a big help with this, and I really appreciate your putting up with me again. Thanks.

Until the next problem arises, I'll still be lurking hereabouts.

Lawson

[40cpe]

A few years ago I bought a 4-ton ram from Harbor freight. I got it on sale for $100. I have used it several times on the springs on my '38. When Lawson started this thread I was going to recommend this too, but I looked on line and only saw the 10-ton version for considerably more.

[v8fordman]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

Do you have a photo of the attachment?

Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.

[glennpm]

Hi Lawson,


If you are only 1/8" too long, you could use your floor jack under the spring end, jack it a little and slip the spreader in.


Not that with the Harbor Freight unit, it comes with only one "chisel" end. I made another from pipe as you can see in my post #22.


Glenn

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.

I think I understand. Yes, it would be tough to fabricate to replace that casting, without spending huge time on it. Thanks for the photos.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

At the risk of being Mr Obvious, is this to be done in a vehicle or out of the vehicle? If the spring is in a car/truck, you can support the ends of the spring with blocks and/or jacks to take the weight off the shackles and remove them that way. And yes, just slight movement indicates the pressure is off.


This can be safer than a spring spreader, as long as the car is supported safely.

Yikes! I've done a few things and amazingly walked away unharmed. Read: young and dumb.
I would NEVER remove a spring the way you suggest.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

I think I understand. Yes, it would be tough to fabricate to replace that casting, without spending huge time on it. Thanks for the photos.

As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.

[Lawson Cox]

If the spring is in a car/truck, you can support the ends of the spring with blocks and/or jacks to take the weight off the shackles and remove them that way. And yes, just slight movement indicates the pressure is off.

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

I'd recommend 6 jackstands. 4 under the frame to jack the car up level. Jack the rear up until there is a little weight on the spring, and put 2 stands under the rear housings. Then jack up on one side of the rear housing another inch or so and cut a length of 4X4 to support the eye of the spring to the floor, but not enough to make the car unstable on the 4 jackstands. Jack up the other eye of the spring a little and the shackles should be relaxed and able to be withdrawn from the perches. Repeat raising the spring eyes a little at a time if they aren't free yet, until they are free. If you are removing the rear, the next step is to drop it to the ground and unbolt the rest of it.


All the getting up and down off the floor is a PITA, it's nice to have someone else to help run the jack and to hand you blocks. A bottle jack or 2 can be handy to put adjustable upward pressure on the spring eyes instead of 4X4s.


If you have 2 floor jacks, put one up under each spring eye until the shackles get loose.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Kube

As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.

What would you charge for one?

[John R]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.

The attachment shown allows the KRW spring spreader to be used on 35 - 48 front springs. It won't work on the 32 - 34 springs. Other methods, some mentioned in this thread, have to be used for those early cars.

[v8fordman]

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Originally Posted by Kube

As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.

My guy has made many complicated dies and is quiet accomplished as a retired old school tool and die maker who says it can't be made in a few hours. You might be surprised at some of the household items that you have that he made the dies for...back in the day. He has never shied away from anything I have asked him to do, so your assumption that he "simply didn't want to do it" is a false assumption. It's a function of cost versus return on investment. He made several dies for me to make the parts I made for the late Roy Nacewicz.

Now that you have stated you can do one in a "few hours", the cost factor just went down. I'll bet we can sell a few and I see someone else has already said he would take one. I bet there are more out there. How about it?

[Mart]

Lawson. if you are just 1/8" too long, could you just weigh the car down a bit to gain the 1/8"? A couple of people sitting in it would do that or a ratchet strap around the axle and crossmember would pull it down.

Mart.

[Bill OH]

I changed the spring shackles on a 38 ford in 1950 using a model T Ford jack under the spring eyes. Later made a spreader using 3/4” redi bolt, pipe, nut, thrust bearing and welded spades onto the pipe. Worked very well. Keep in mind that the spring is in a pxxxd off position and whatever you are using should be very secure.

[1931 flamingo]

Is anyone with a spreader close to Lawson who could help him???
Paul in CT

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

What would you charge for one?

Retired

[Kube]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

My guy has made many complicated dies and is quiet accomplished as a retired old school tool and die maker who says it can't be made in a few hours. You might be surprised at some of the household items that you have that he made the dies for...back in the day. He has never shied away from anything I have asked him to do, so your assumption that he "simply didn't want to do it" is a false assumption. It's a function of cost versus return on investment. He made several dies for me to make the parts I made for the late Roy Nacewicz.

Now that you have stated you can do one in a "few hours", the cost factor just went down. I'll bet we can sell a few and I see someone else has already said he would take one. I bet there are more out there. How about it?

I spent the better part of my life's work as a tool maker retiring in 2006. Within that trade are varying levels of skills and experiences.
I would not be surprised of anything your friend may have produced. Nor would he most likely not be surprised by the dies I had produced.
However, I doubt you or anyone else would have anything made from my dies in your household. Unless of course you own a tank, personal carrier or jet, etc.
Regardless, the comparison I believe you were attempting to make is apples to oranges.

I do recall fairly well making my spreader and three others just like it. This was in the year 2004 or so. The reason I know they took about three hours each to make is I had charged (at that time) $110 / hour plus actual material cost. I'd sold the three 'extra" spreaders back then for $400 each. So, three hours at $110 and $70 for material...

If I recall correctly I had used stress proof steel for the "guts" and plain ol' cold rolled tubing for the sleeve.
The sleeve is thick wall (.250"). The ends of the "guts" were milled to make the areas that push directly against the ends of the spring. I'd turned down the threaded portion and cut the threads (1" - 8) in the lathe.
My thinking was one piece was surely stronger than multiple pieces and well, easier to produce.
I did not (obviously) make the wrench.
I did make a number of sleeves so the overall length of the spreader could be changed to accommodate whatever was to be worked on.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Mart

Lawson. if you are just 1/8" too long, could you just weigh the car down a bit to gain the 1/8"? A couple of people sitting in it would do that or a ratchet strap around the axle and crossmember would pull it down.

Mart.

I got that part solved with a good spreader. My problem is finding the sweet spot to get the bushings out. I've tried 'em all w/o success.

[flatmotor40]

I just changed all my bushing on my 40 and my Model A with just 2 bottle jacks.I put 1 jack under the side I was doing and the other on the other side of the spring no trouble doing it that way.But I have Posies springs on both cars

[dep5]

Snap On S9023-2.jpg


My Snap-On version. reversible ratchet portion, stencil says S-9023-2
don't have the C-shaped attachment


https://www.freepatentsonline.com/1898121.pdf


Here is a complete set, photo credit to Garage Journal
Snap On S9023.jpg

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by dep5

Attachment 492202


My Snap-On version. reversible rachet portion S-9023-2
don't have the C-shaped portion


https://www.freepatentsonline.com/1898121.pdf

[Lawson Cox]

I now have a spreader like that. However, I don't have all of the acuterments it appears. I do not believe mine has a name or number anywhere on it. I'll check closer

I must have forgotten to post that I finally got the bushings installed. Sorry for that. (I'm sure I posted that. It must have been in another thread.

[DavidG]

The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle. It does not look as safe to use as the later K.R. Wilson version with the safety catches on the ends.


To spread the '32-'34 front springs we made a reduced-size version of the KRW rear spring spreader.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle.

Model "A" version with spring ABOVE axle, rather than BEHIND it.

Coop/AMERICAN

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle. It does not look as safe to use as the later K.R. Wilson version with the safety catches on the ends.


To spread the '32-'34 front springs we made a reduced-size version of the KRW rear spring spreader.

David,
Like you, I made an adapter of sorts to R&R the '33 - '34 front springs. I'd also made an adapter to R&R that danged curved rear spring.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.

V8 Fordman, I was lucky enough to find both of these versions and yes, they work well on the front. For someone who needs something available you can use the model a front spring or rear even upside down I believe. I have and use them in A’s all the time but use my kr Wilson rear unit in v8’s. I’m kind of a krw junkie so haven’t passed up too many over the years. Super glad I got them as they have been invaluable.

I didn’t know it till about 6 months ago but there’s a kr wilson Facebook group. You can post out there if you are looking for something. At least it’s a resource.
I think it’s harder to find them now than it was 20 years ago.
Larry

[Ol' Ron]

We used a modified bumper jack/ Stupid factor very high!!!!
Gramps

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by glennpm

I used a Harbor Freight "Porta-Power" on the 40 rear spring in my 32.

I had a request for the dimensions and pictures of the spade end I made for the Harbor Freight Port-Power so am posting against this older thread.

I used a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 pipe that I had handy, crimped the end in my vice, then welded and ground the end. It fits perfectly with no slop on the Harbor Freight end.

Glenn

[Lawson Cox]

Glen: FWIW, there needs to be a slight bend in that end piece or it may slip out of the groove on the end of the spring, where the "eye" is formed on the spring. Don't ask me how I know.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Glen: FWIW, there needs to be a slight bend in that end piece or it may slip out of the groove on the end of the spring, where the "eye" is formed on the spring. Don't ask me how I know.

Lawson, you got this!

[neilp]

I think the spring spreader the Canadian boy's used on their Merc is a MUST HAVE! Below is a link to this post. The spreader shows up at approximately 4:35 into the video. Do you think this is a factory piece or home grown?

Patrick

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317423

[Tinker]

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I bought a nice spreader for rear a model a I had. Very different. sold it.

Have a weird old wormgear spreader with extensions. Worked very well and keeping it.

Lawson, don't over think it buddy. You can do it with a couple bottle jacks. Have done it. No big deal.


Turn off the static and just do it.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by neilp

I think the spring spreader the Canadian boy's used on their Merc is a MUST HAVE! Below is a link to this post. The spreader shows up at approximately 4:35 into the video. Do you think this is a factory piece or home grown?

Patrick

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317423

Patrick,
That spreader looks great to me!
Very ingenious design.
I'd buy it no matter who made it.


Tinker,
You are correct, the job can be done with a bare minimum of tools.
BUT... I think you will agree that the use of a spreader nullifies 80% of the stupid factor.

[Mart]

I liked the spreader that Jim and Matt used. It was more a spring bender than a spreader and probably requires less load on the screw thread than a conventional straight shot spreader.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Glen: FWIW, there needs to be a slight bend in that end piece or it may slip out of the groove on the end of the spring, where the "eye" is formed on the spring. Don't ask me how I know.

Hi Lawson,

Are you saying to bend the end so that in use, you would place the bend toward the spring? I haven't had any trouble with mine as is but I'm very careful.

Glenn

[blucar]

I am at a loss as to why I overlooked this spring spreader topic.
I can clearly recall the many 'shade-tree', hair brained tricks that we used, bumper jacks, bottle jacks, etc., to remove a Early Ford V8 spring.
In the middle ' 70's I had to remove the front spring from my '36 to replace the spring bushings... As i was attempting this project the lights came on in a dark corner of my brain, recalling a spring spreader we used at a Ford Dealership I worked at for awhile in the mid '50's.

I was able to fabricate a very good variation of a KR Wilson spreader that worked very nicely.
Pix attached..