oil pan gasket sealant application

[FrankWest]

When installing a new oil pan gasket.
Is this the proper sequence? I wanted to make sure that both sides of the gasket should be coated.
1. Permetex 2 is applieded to the block,
2. then the gasket is attached to the block,
3. then coat the gasket with permetex 2
4. then attach pan.

[Joe K]

I think were I to do it, I would use Perm 2 on the block and around the "hump" where the square gasket goes.

Then place the two side gaskets.

Then put dollops of Perm 2 at the juncture between the side gaskets and the rope seal (front) and the cork seal (back) Sort of placed in the "corners."

Then place the cork seal, embedding it into the dollops at either end.

Then place pan (rope seals in slots at front of course) without a second layer of Perm 2 attaching to gaskets.

You want to be able to drop the pan without ruining the gaskets or the cork.

Well, this unless I found (like you) more leakage.

Then Katie bar the gate when it comes to Perm No. 2 (I.e. do what you need to do.)

Joe K

[Tiny]

http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...et-Article.pdf
I think this is a really good article that addresses the oil pan. Mine is leaking pretty bad I will be trying this method soon

[Jim Brierley]

if it is a cork gasket i wouldn't use anything. paper i would use black silicone. spread a thin bead on engine and pan.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tiny

http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...et-Article.pdf
I think this is a really good article that addresses the oil pan. Mine is leaking pretty bad I will be trying this method soon

The main two piece gasket appears to be made of carboard and not cork.
I purchased it from MAC's/ Was it supposed to be cork? Where do you get a cork one?
Upom closer examination it could be compressed cork, it is the right color and has a number stamped that apprears to be slightly indented into the material, maybe it is cork?

[Tiny]

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I got a cork one from Bert's

[Bill B]

I use the cork gasket with "Gasgacinch" on the pan and adjoining gasket. Nothing on the block. Never had a problem and it is a lot easier to take the gasket off the pan, if necessary, than the block.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tiny

I got a cork one from Bert's

I checked everywhere. People have the model A cork but no one has it in model B. A the model B's are paper!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

if it is a cork gasket i wouldn't use anything. paper i would use black silicone. spread a thin bead on engine and pan.

really! I thought the permetex helps and also keeps the gasket attached to the block while setting up the pan installation.
I am so confused.
This is the first time i have done this and so want it to turn out well.

[Joe K]

My preference was to have the gasket attached to the block - this due to the "fussyness" to making everything come together at that all important rear seal area.

You have four elements all coming together in concert - a little hard to do with the gasket attached to the pan and while keeping everything together.

But hey, others seem to have done it. And in certain respects it makes sense to want to have the gasket attached to the pan.

BUT - that dern square cork at the rear overlaps the little square on the gasket which keys into the cork groove - which kind of drives your assembly.

I supposed you could cut the little square off?

More than one way to skin a cat. Methinks you're about at the point where you fish or cut bait.

Good luck. Don't forget - however done there is always a possibility of a re-do if you don't get what you want. Gaskets and Perm2 are cheap.

OBTW, I've never used a cork gasket - they weren't around for the longest time. And frankly I have my reservations - that thing called "durometer." You don't want to bend the pan shoulder because of an overly soft cork. But others have used it to good effect. I trust Berts. If anyone would know what is best - they would.

Joe K

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Joe K

My preference was to have the gasket attached to the block - this due to the "fussyness" to making everything come together at that all important rear seal area.

You have four elements all coming together in concert - a little hard to do with the gasket attached to the pan and while keeping everything together.

But hey, others seem to have done it. And in certain respects it makes sense to want to have the gasket attached to the pan.

BUT - that dern square cork at the rear overlaps the little square on the gasket which keys into the cork groove - which kind of drives your assembly.

I supposed you could cut the little square off?

More than one way to skin a cat. Methinks you're about at the point where you fish or cut bait.

Good luck. Don't forget - however done there is always a possibility of a re-do if you don't get what you want. Gaskets and Perm2 are cheap.

OBTW, I've never used a cork gasket - they weren't around for the longest time. And frankly I have my reservations - that thing called "durometer." You don't want to bend the pan shoulder because of an overly soft cork. But others have used it to good effect. I trust Berts. If anyone would know what is best - they would.

Joe K

That is true! everyone has there special way of doing a task.
I cannot do it without some permetex. It would seem logical that a sparing use of sealer here would work as well as sealers used in typical plumbing applications. I have not eveb run the engine yet. I will be happy to get if running even if it is not perfect. I plan on changing the oil a dozen times anyway.... do bad these engine have no oil filter.

[MikeK]

I'm a bit of a Maverick. I put a pan on a fresh build I did in 2007 with NO rail gaskets. Just silicone gasket maker, like modern cars. Absolutely drip free and dry.

I've built several engines since then and they all were done with silicone and NO rail gaskets. Of course, I hammer/dollied the rails and front/rear seal areas to an excellent fit first. Since I only do insert jobs, no babbitt, the pans will not need to be pulled for adjustments.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by MikeK

I'm a bit of a Maverick. I put a pan on a fresh build I did in 2007 with NO rail gaskets. Just silicone gasket maker, like modern cars. Absolutely drip free and dry.

I've built several engines since then and they all were done with silicone and NO rail gaskets. Of course, I hammer/dollied the rails and front/rear seal areas to an excellent fit first. Since I only do insert jobs, no babbitt, the pans will not need to be pulled for adjustments.

Great to know! Seems logical. The gasket silicones we have today were not available 80 years ago. I wondered why permetex called the syuff Gasket maker, It is a liquid that you form into a custom fit gasket.
Thanks for that slap in the face.....I needed it!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I always used Permatex on the block to hold the gasket in place. You can use a light coat of grease between the gasket and pan. This will make pan removal easy and not tear the gasket.