8ba 59a distributor?

[dad's deuce roadster]

Per other threads, we are restoring a 32 roadster hotrod from the 50's. The 59A engine had a crack, valve to cylinder, and we instead putting in a 8BA. I know these can be built with the older front mount distributors. What is needed for that. A probable complication is the builder already bought the crank. Also, we'd prefer an electronic ignition. Thanks for any guidance.

[Tim Ayers]

First and foremost, you'll need to change the cam to drive the distributor. You should also switch to the 59AB timing gears as well.

[flatjack9]

Right. you can use the crank, just change the gear on the front of the crank to the 59 style.

[cas3]

Skip the electronic and just use the Ford crab dizzy. way mo better

[ford38v8]

If you want a distributor that won't leave you stranded in the middle of an intersection, then you don't want electronic. They just can't tolerate the heat generated by a Flathead Ford. Nothing more embarrassing than sitting on the curb waiting for the tow truck.

[flatjack9]

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Originally Posted by ford38v8

If you want a distributor that won't leave you stranded in the middle of an intersection, then you don't want electronic. They just can't tolerate the heat generated by a Flathead Ford. Nothing more embarrassing than sitting on the curb waiting for the tow truck.

I have to disagree. I've had an electronic Mallory in my 39 for 25 years w/o a problem. I do carry a spare. I hope I didn't jinx myself.

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by cas3

Skip the electronic and just use the Ford crab dizzy. way mo better

Those 59A dual point carb distributers are really nice. I don't see any reason to go with an electronic unit, especially when I keep reading about how the electronic conversions keep failing. The same brand people used on the flatheads to convert original distributors is also failing on the Mustangs. I never had my factory dual points have any problems on my Mustang distributers. Ford ran them on the GT40s at 7000 rpm, for 24 hours at Lemans. There is nothing wrong with points. They might not be super accurate, but they work just fine for what we do with them.

It seems like the aftermarket conversions do not hold up as well as the factory electronic ignitions did. I'm not talking about Mallory like flatjack9 has but the ones that replace the stock points. I worked all kinds of distributors at the Phone Companys fleet of 400 vehicles during that era. Those electronic units failed almost as much as the points distributers we had in the fleet. Especially the Fords, they had serious problems with their ignition modules. I kept two in stock at all times, That's how bad they were. I even carried a spare on my '86 Jeep CJ7 because they used that same Ford module from the factory. That is how afraid I was of those Ford modules. Then they changed the design to the module bolted on the inner fender to one bolted on the side of the distributers and those were just as bad. Dodge had problems with the pick ups inside the distributers going bad. Chevy had the best distributer, with their HEI units. We had a bunch of Chevy trucks and Suburban's with over 150,000 miles on them. I only ever had one module inside the distributer fail. Those are practically bullet proof distributors if they have the "factory" Delco modules and coils. I just don't like seeing a Chebby part on a Ford flathead, its embarrassing!

I know what worked and what did not. The phone company kept their vehicles for a minimum of 15-years, and some had over 300,000 miles. There was no set replacement interval. They went off of when it was "completely" worn out. like the frames finally broke or something major failed like an engine on a 15 year old vehicle. I'd be a fool to say points are as good as "factory" electronic ignitions but in the case of aftermarket conversions I think I'd stick with the points. When you do a tune up keep the old parts and carry them with you just incase or better yet buildup a spare distributer to carry and the tools needed to replace it. Even if you don't ever need it, if your with club somebody might need to borrow it on one of the club's outings. That's what my dad always did in the Model A Club. Spare generator too.

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

If you want a distributor that won't leave you stranded in the middle of an intersection, then you don't want electronic. They just can't tolerate the heat generated by a Flathead Ford. Nothing more embarrassing than sitting on the curb waiting for the tow truck.

I agree with the points not leaving you stranded. Bad points will usually start running crappy but still get you home. Where as a module either works or it doesn't. If your changing your points at the factory recommended intervals you rarely will have a problem with them, if you use "quality" parts. These old cars are usually neglected, its usually not the points fault when they fail. The coils are old and fail on flatheads, they also fail on 40-year-old electronic ignitions too. If your coil is old get rid of it!

We had big block trucks at work that got so hot under the hoods they melted plug wires but the electronic distributors survived. I think the heat is not so much of a problem as the quality of the electronics in with these aftermarket parts. One modern manufacturer is attempting to put the engine controller under the intake manifold, inside the engine, probably to save on the wiring. That worries me because of the heat inside there, not to mention if it fails its going to cost lot to have it replaced. You know who will end up doing the testing on this, it will be the customers and they will pay the price for a stupid design.

[Ol' Ron]

I prefer the 8BA style ignition system for only one reason. It allow for better control of spark timing, Aesthetics, do not improve performance or economy, but they sure look nice,
Gramps

[dad's deuce roadster]

As always, nice to hear we have options still. I'll reconsider the points option. I do agree that a lot of issues with electronics are the aftermarket quality. I've run the same HEI module in my 80 vette for about 85000 of it's 90000 miles. The other 5000 ran with an Accel capacitive discharge sytem. That 5000 was all it did before quitting on me. But it did have the decency to quit just 100' from home. After it quit I just put the old module back in.

[Flathead]

I remember the GM HEI having the wires break off at the pick-up coil from being flexed by the vacuum advance after the insulation got hard from heat and age.

[dad's deuce roadster]

Originally Posted by Flathead

I remember the GM HEI having the wires break off at the pick-up coil from being flexed by the vacuum advance after the insulation got hard from heat and age.

Another issue with them was that when you pulled the connector on the V6 models and then plugged it back in, one of the blade contacts would stub against the receptacle contact. Instead of sliding in, it would it would get pushed backwards in in the housing. So there was no contact, but it didn't get pushed back far enough to see that it was coming out of the housing.

This happened to me once when pulled the cap off following a typical Buffalo style blizzard which completely caked the engine compartment with compacted snow on a Buick Century. For an entire day I tried to figure out the problem. Finally called my grandfather who owned a service garage. Problem solved. He immediately said check the red wire on the connector and make sure it hasn't backed out. Tribal knowledge beats the manual once again.

[dad's deuce roadster]

And now back the issue of a distributor for the 8BA which will help to keep the look of the 59A. Does MSD not make a crab style horizontal mount distributor? Assuming that's the case, has any one used the Mallory distributors, either points or electronic, and if so, are they reliable?

[cas3]

The ford crab dizzy was designed by mallory. duel point, very good units. I used an 8ba style merc cam shaft in a 59a by cutting off the drive gear and notching it for the crab drive. It was easy peasy on the mill. I have an old thread on it here