The Ford Barn

Robert/Texas · 02-17-2011, 11:59 AM

The Bendix spring on my ’34 roadster broke. The car has a stock ’36 LB engine except for welded up style exhaust headers for duals. These duals were installed by the previous owner, probably around 20 years ago, and this is my problem.

In order to get the starter off I had to pull off its housing and then pull out the armature with the Bendix assembly. With some help, I replaced the spring, re-assembled the starter and tested it.

Now as expected, I have a clearance issue getting the starter back on. The flange on the header is barely enough in the way to prevent this. I am reluctant to remove the header for fear of breaking any bolts.

Another option would be to remove the bolts on the wishbone socket and lower the rear of the wishbone (about ¾ inch) to where it hits the exhaust pipe. If this does not allow enough clearance, I could remove the exhaust pipe from the header flange allowing more wishbone movement. What needs to be supported and what else do I need to know when lowering the back of the wishbone (at the socket) and reinstalling it?

Any and all help/suggestions are welcome. I’m anxious to get the car back on the road as the weather has been improving.

FlatheadTed · 02-17-2011, 01:39 PM

Just remove the nuts on the WB ,and block it down ,

Randy · 02-17-2011, 04:45 PM

I agree with Ted, the wishbone will drop down way more than 3/4", so should give you plenty of room. Randy

Robert/Texas · 02-17-2011, 09:53 PM

Thanks Ted and Randy.
I removed the exhaust pipes and lowered the wishbone until it didn't interfere. Unfortunately, although now I can get the Bendix inside the flywheel cover the flange on the header is still in the way of the starter barrel. I am going to try again tomorrow morning but doubt I will be successful. I have brushed lots of acetone/transmission fluid on the header bolts and will repeat this a couple of times tomorrow. I need to be out of town for the rest of the long weekend but hope to get on removing the header when I return.
Robert

Robert/Texas · 04-10-2011, 10:21 AM

Just a follow-up on my starter problem, I just got back from a long trip. I bought a “Stump Puller” starter from Speedway. This is a very small and lightweight starter and the starter gear meshes with the flywheel gear from the front instead of the rear as on the stock starter. This was a snap to install and it works just fine (problem solved). The starter cost about $195 including freight. My only concern is its durability. It only weighs about 6 pounds and has a cheap look/feel to it.

CWPASADENA · 04-10-2011, 11:04 AM

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I would START NOW applying penitrating oil to all the header bolts. Do this several times a week for a few weeks and they should all come out with no problem. Replace them with Grade 8 Bolts and a little anti-seeze and NO LOCKWASHERS. In the future if you need to go back to the original starter, the header will be easy to remove.

There may be a time when you will have to remove the headers for some other reason so it would be good to take care of things now so the headers will come off when it is necessary.

Personally, I am not a big fan of aftermarket Flathead Starters, but that is just my opinion.

I am also not a big fan of the type of headers that are made where you can not remove the starter. Reds Headers make very good traditional style headers that fit and you can remove the starter when necessary.

Again, my opinion,

Chris

B-O-B · 04-10-2011, 11:52 AM

REDS HEADERS gets my vote also

Robert/Texas · 04-10-2011, 03:41 PM

Thanks Chris and B-O-B. I’d been thinking about replacing those headers for a long time (about 15 years or so) but other priorities and “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it) has been getting in the way. The problem I’ve been wanting to solve was that the driver’s side header almost touches the steering box. Do you know how well Reds Headers clear this on a ’34?

Robert

B-O-B · 04-10-2011, 05:49 PM

Talk to Jim @ reds (owner) he sent me a pair & told me to mark the changes & send them back to him. He made the changes & shipped them back & they fit perfect. He also sent a ups pickup slip on the first set & shipped the second modified set back with new gaskets,nuts & washers with only the purchase price ( very reasonable) & one time shipping.
You can't beat the customer service & quick turn around..
I'm using a cougar box in my 34.

Robert/Texas · 04-10-2011, 06:55 PM

I have a stock '34 box in mine and it steers easily with 250W gear oil and has very little slack. It does leak a little after long drives but not much. I would think that the headers wouldn't need modification. Thanks.

Robert

CWPASADENA · 04-10-2011, 07:50 PM

If you are dealing with stock steering and even an F100, Red's Headers should fit with no problems. Several years ago, I built a A-V8 using an original '32 frame that was pinched in 2 inches at the front and a F100 steering box. I gave all this information to Red's and they sent me a pair of headers. I thought these would not fit just by looking at them BUT they installed and fit woth no problems and cleared everything.

I should think you should not have a problem.

My experience,

Chris

02-17-2011, 11:59 AM	#1
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	’34 Starter Installation Help The Bendix spring on my ’34 roadster broke. The car has a stock ’36 LB engine except for welded up style exhaust headers for duals. These duals were installed by the previous owner, probably around 20 years ago, and this is my problem. In order to get the starter off I had to pull off its housing and then pull out the armature with the Bendix assembly. With some help, I replaced the spring, re-assembled the starter and tested it. Now as expected, I have a clearance issue getting the starter back on. The flange on the header is barely enough in the way to prevent this. I am reluctant to remove the header for fear of breaking any bolts. Another option would be to remove the bolts on the wishbone socket and lower the rear of the wishbone (about ¾ inch) to where it hits the exhaust pipe. If this does not allow enough clearance, I could remove the exhaust pipe from the header flange allowing more wishbone movement. What needs to be supported and what else do I need to know when lowering the back of the wishbone (at the socket) and reinstalling it? Any and all help/suggestions are welcome. I’m anxious to get the car back on the road as the weather has been improving.

02-17-2011, 01:39 PM	#2
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,705	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Just remove the nuts on the WB ,and block it down , __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,

02-17-2011, 04:45 PM	#3
Randy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin Posts: 696	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help I agree with Ted, the wishbone will drop down way more than 3/4", so should give you plenty of room. Randy

02-17-2011, 09:53 PM	#4
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Thanks Ted and Randy. I removed the exhaust pipes and lowered the wishbone until it didn't interfere. Unfortunately, although now I can get the Bendix inside the flywheel cover the flange on the header is still in the way of the starter barrel. I am going to try again tomorrow morning but doubt I will be successful. I have brushed lots of acetone/transmission fluid on the header bolts and will repeat this a couple of times tomorrow. I need to be out of town for the rest of the long weekend but hope to get on removing the header when I return. Robert

04-10-2011, 10:21 AM	#5
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Just a follow-up on my starter problem, I just got back from a long trip. I bought a “Stump Puller” starter from Speedway. This is a very small and lightweight starter and the starter gear meshes with the flywheel gear from the front instead of the rear as on the stock starter. This was a snap to install and it works just fine (problem solved). The starter cost about $195 including freight. My only concern is its durability. It only weighs about 6 pounds and has a cheap look/feel to it.

04-10-2011, 11:04 AM	#6
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,884	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I would START NOW applying penitrating oil to all the header bolts. Do this several times a week for a few weeks and they should all come out with no problem. Replace them with Grade 8 Bolts and a little anti-seeze and NO LOCKWASHERS. In the future if you need to go back to the original starter, the header will be easy to remove. There may be a time when you will have to remove the headers for some other reason so it would be good to take care of things now so the headers will come off when it is necessary. Personally, I am not a big fan of aftermarket Flathead Starters, but that is just my opinion. I am also not a big fan of the type of headers that are made where you can not remove the starter. Reds Headers make very good traditional style headers that fit and you can remove the starter when necessary. Again, my opinion, Chris

04-10-2011, 11:52 AM	#7
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help REDS HEADERS gets my vote also

04-10-2011, 03:41 PM	#8
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Thanks Chris and B-O-B. I’d been thinking about replacing those headers for a long time (about 15 years or so) but other priorities and “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it) has been getting in the way. The problem I’ve been wanting to solve was that the driver’s side header almost touches the steering box. Do you know how well Reds Headers clear this on a ’34? Robert

04-10-2011, 05:49 PM	#9
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help Talk to Jim @ reds (owner) he sent me a pair & told me to mark the changes & send them back to him. He made the changes & shipped them back & they fit perfect. He also sent a ups pickup slip on the first set & shipped the second modified set back with new gaskets,nuts & washers with only the purchase price ( very reasonable) & one time shipping. You can't beat the customer service & quick turn around.. I'm using a cougar box in my 34.

04-10-2011, 06:55 PM	#10
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help I have a stock '34 box in mine and it steers easily with 250W gear oil and has very little slack. It does leak a little after long drives but not much. I would think that the headers wouldn't need modification. Thanks. Robert

04-10-2011, 07:50 PM	#11
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,884	Re: ’34 Starter Installation Help If you are dealing with stock steering and even an F100, Red's Headers should fit with no problems. Several years ago, I built a A-V8 using an original '32 frame that was pinched in 2 inches at the front and a F100 steering box. I gave all this information to Red's and they sent me a pair of headers. I thought these would not fit just by looking at them BUT they installed and fit woth no problems and cleared everything. I should think you should not have a problem. My experience, Chris