frame welt

[larry harding]

i'm almost ready to mount the cab back on the frame of my 31 cc pickup. should the frame welt go all the way back under the bed wood supports or just under the cab part? the suppliers list a piece of sheet metal that goes between the cab and bed. i've only seen a few pickups and don't remember seeing this piece in place. is this a necessary piece?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

The anti-squeak (welt) was used to eliminate the squeaking caused by the body apron rubbing against the frame rail. Therefore it should (only) be installed for the length of the body apron. It does not get installed above the apron.

.

[wrndln]

I always though the frame welting ran all the way to the front of the frame "horns", not just to the front of the splash apron like Brent indicated. I agree the welting should stop just past the back end of the splash apron on passenger cars. I have a 29 CCPU and have wondered if the frame welting should go past the back end of the splash aprons to the end of the frame under the heavy wood supports for the bed. If not, it seems there would be an offset ("drop down" past the welting and splash apron. Brent, could you explain how the back end of the splash aprons/welting is done on a pickup?
Rusty Nelson

[Steve Plucker]

Larry,

According to all of the Parts Price Lists that Ford put out for the Model A frame, there was NO specific frame welting or anti-squeek part number for the Model A pickup body, 78-A and 78-B, that I could find,,,if so, I missed it.

Please review this article I wrote on the anti-squeek about a year ago or so for Model A News describing the anti-squeek material.

http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/studie...EAKARTICLE.pdf

Pluck

[larry harding]

o k, that is a lot of info, especially the article on anti squeak material. i'm still not sure where to begin and stop the strip on my ccpu. what have some of you guys been doing? is all this trouble with asphaltum really necessary? i'm not after a points restoration, just a truck i can drive in a parade and haul neighborhood brats around in. thanks

[wrndln]

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Larry,
I use contact cement to glue the frame welting down to the frame after I have punched the bolt holes in it. I start the welting just past the back of where the splash apron is and run it all the way to the front of the frame horns and a little under the frame horns a little. I have found that the easiest way to punch the holes in the welting is to get some short cast iron pipe nipples and on a grinding wheel taper one end to a sharp edge. I think I used 2 or 3 different sizes, but 2 would probably be sufficient. I then put masking tape on the underside of the welting where the holes need to be punched and lay the welting on the frame and clamp it to the frame with spring pinch clamps. I then mark the tape with a Magic marker or a pencil from the underside. I then get a scrap 2x4 or 2x6 and stand it on end. Then I take the proper size sharpened pipe and whack the pipe with a heavy hammer where the hole marking are. The sharpened pipe will cut a nice clean hole in the welting. Hope this helps.
Rusty Nelson

[Terry, NJ]

Wpow! Is this timely! Just today I was working on my 30 Briggs Town Sedan trying to get the front doors to close properly They're hanging up on the top of the door opening. I tried to get the cowl and the hinges either lower, or the bottoms shoved forward. I noticed that my welt was loose in some places. But here's the thing; I thought the welt ran the length of the body AND fenders. Now! I'm reading that the welt only goes under the area of the apron.(By Apron, I'm assuming it means the apron behind the front fender and under the door) Is This correct? What is correct?
Terry

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by wrndln

I always though the frame welting ran all the way to the front of the frame "horns", not just to the front of the splash apron like Brent indicated. I agree the welting should stop just past the back end of the splash apron on passenger cars. I have a 29 CCPU and have wondered if the frame welting should go past the back end of the splash aprons to the end of the frame under the heavy wood supports for the bed. If not, it seems there would be an offset ("drop down" past the welting and splash apron. Brent, could you explain how the back end of the splash aprons/welting is done on a pickup?
Rusty Nelson

You are correct and I was answering Larry specifically when he asked does it go the length of the bed, -and my response was it goes the length of the apron only.

[larry harding]

i've got some gasket cutters that will probably do the job. if the welting material is synthetic maybe a soldering iron could melt the holes through the welting. is anybody going through that asphaultum prrocess? seems like a lot of work with little advantage.

[Steve Plucker]

[QUOTE=larry harding;1340972]i've got some gasket cutters that will probably do the job. if the welting material is synthetic maybe a soldering iron could melt the holes through the welting. is anybody going through that asphaultum prrocess? seems like a lot of work with little advantage.[/QUOTE

No Larry, you do not have to do the "Asphaultum process"...That is only for the purists at heart who want to do it correctly...it is your car...do it as you please. Ford probably did it that way to protect the anti-squeek material from deteriating quickly thus having a metal to metal surface but as we all know...the material rots anyway especially after 80 plus years but by that time (from now)...we ain't going to care one way or the other.

Pluck

[larry harding]

now! that really helps. thanks

[aermotor]

I contact cemented my welting down and then went back and heated a tapered punch with a MAP torch and punched through the welting. The heat from the punch sealed the thread strands and prevented raveling (as if that mattered). Leather groves advised.

John