Front radiius rod ball question.

[Fred K-OR]

How do you know if your radius rod ball is worn to much to not be able to use the orginal ball caps? When would you have to use the washer or the rubber ball with different aftermarket caps? Is the ball suppose to be a certain measurment? If so what is that measurment?

Thanks for the information.

[columbiA]

I believe the ball should be 1-1/2"If its worn a bit,just form a fender washer to fit.Use the original style ball cap assy rather than the rubber ball.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

the ball was 1 1/2 inches diameter originally. Measure it with calipers to see what it is now. If a set of new caps does not fit the ball with some space ( roughly 1/8th inch) between the cap ends, then the ball is too worn. If a shim will not provide enough clamping to create that space, its way too worn. In that case, weld it up and file it back to 1 1/2. As much work as it is, a restored ball will give by far the better steering stability compared to any jury rigged repairs.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks guys for the info. Will have to check it out. I do have another radius rod (wishbone) available so hopefully one of them may be close enough to work again.

[Fred K-OR]

Pat, your method of checking the ball for correct size sounds easy. Probem is at this point I do not have a set of the orginal caps. I measured the ball and it is 1.411 horizontal and 1.380 vertical. That leaves the vertical measurement a little less than 1/8 inch less than 1 1/2 inch. Would you venture a guess as to whether this size would still work? I know it would be only a guess.

[1931 flamingo]

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Does it look round??
Paul in CT

[Bill Goddard]

Many years ago an old german gunsmith told me a story about his machinist's training in 1930's Germany. he was given a square chunk of steel about 2" square and told to file it round - perfectly round. After many days and hours he finally thought it was round and he submitted it for inspection. You can imagine a strict instructor examining the sphere through a monicle. To the student's delight the instructor measured it across many axes and pronounced it PERFECT. Then he picked up a file, cut a flat unto the sphere, handed it back to the student and said "do it again". My point is if you were to TIG weld the ball to large enough size you could file it down to size. It would take a while but what a sense of accomplishment. Bill G

[Terry, NJ]

Also, I can see the value of making a template to measure your progress. Just take a piece of scrap sheet steel and put a Round hole, 1.500", or slightly larger, in it. Dykem bluing with also be useful to pick up high spots. If you don't have dykem, you can use the soot from a candle. Also, you can lap it in by using laping compound and twirling the socket around the ball. This would be a final step. Good Luck!
Terry

Originally Posted by Bill Goddard

Many years ago an old german gunsmith told me a story about his machinist's training in 1930's Germany. he was given a square chunk of steel about 2" square and told to file it round - perfectly round. After many days and hours he finally thought it was round and he submitted it for inspection. You can imagine a strict instructor examining the sphere through a monicle. To the student's delight the instructor measured it across many axes and pronounced it PERFECT. Then he picked up a file, cut a flat unto the sphere, handed it back to the student and said "do it again". My point is if you were to TIG weld the ball to large enough size you could file it down to size. It would take a while but what a sense of accomplishment. Bill G

[1931 flamingo]

Also as long as you're disassembling the front end, if your ball is bad, you could replace the wishbone with a "good" one. Or, some of the vendors are offering new balls that must be welded in , your front end is apart, perfect opportunity if you want to be sure.
Paul in CT

[Fred K-OR]

Asking for some more ideas from you all. If I were to build up the ball by welding, what would be the best type of welding to use? The only welders I have in house are stick and gas. Would a brazing job using gas do a good job? Would appricate ideas based on what you all have done. Thanks

[Ross/Kzoo]

I'm a complete novice so don't put any weight on what I did. I used a wire/mig welder to add dimension to the ball. I drilled 2 1 1/2" holes in a 3" x6" piece of plywood. One centered and one at the edge that way I could check all aspects of the ball and ground it down to make it round.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

I'm a complete novice so don't put any weight on what I did. I used a wire/mig welder to add dimension to the ball. I drilled 2 1 1/2" holes in a 3" x6" piece of plywood. One centered and one at the edge that way I could check all aspects of the ball and ground it down to make it round.

I am a complete novice also to welding. I do have the gas and stick welders. But I guess I think I could do it with the gas or maybe braze some additional metal on it. Will brazing be as strong as gas welding? I heard that it was.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

I MIG'd a really bad ball once, using a piece of sheet metal with a hole in it as a guide to find low spots, then filed it to fit the hole. If your ball is 1/8th low at the bottom, I would think a hammered washer shim would do the trick.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

I am a complete novice also to welding. I do have the gas and stick welders. But I guess I think I could do it with the gas or maybe braze some additional metal on it. Will brazing be as strong as gas welding? I heard that it was.

Use a stick welder or even gas. Brazing is one step up from silver soldering and uses the flow of the filler material to attach parts. Not real good for building up material and not nearly as strong as welding.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

I MIG'd a really bad ball once, using a piece of sheet metal with a hole in it as a guide to find low spots, then filed it to fit the hole. If your ball is 1/8th low at the bottom, I would think a hammered washer shim would do the trick.

Sure would be tempting to use the hammered washer. I think I saw one of the vendors that sold them already hammered.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Sure would be tempting to use the hammered washer. I think I saw one of the vendors that sold them already hammered.

If the wear is so much that the ball has slop then I'd use the washer for now, and later when the front needs to be rebuilt I'd weld up the ball and file it round.