quality brake lamp switch

[Kube]

Guys,
Any advice as to where I might purchase a quality brake lamp switch?
Thanks!

[JOHN CT]

The best place is
A&L Parts Specialties LLC
PO Box 301
Canton,Ct. 060019-0301
Phone# 860-693-0112 or 860-693-2620

[Utopia Texas]

I bought a repro brake light switch back in 1988 and it soon developed a direct electrical short inside. Taking it apart I found a insulated piece that was too limber and allowed contact between two metal pieces. Installed a thicker, stiff cut piece of insulation and have now used that switch on my '31 for 28 years!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Which style switch?
Here is my 1928-9 switch, which I had to clean the nuts and contacts on yesterday.
The night before I noticed the brake light wasn't coming on when I stepped on the brakes. It's easy to tell when it's on by the deflection on the ammeter, and at night the brake light really lights up the road behind me.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Which style switch?
Here is my 1928-9 switch, which I had to clean the nuts and contacts on yesterday.
The night before I noticed the brake light wasn't coming on when I stepped on the brakes. It's easy to tell when it's on by the deflection on the ammeter, and at night the brake light really lights up the road behind me.

Thanks Tom, I am searching for a 1931 A, quite unlike the one in your photo.

Kind regards,
Mike

[Bob from Northport]

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Snyder's, Bratton's and A&L all sell the quality brake light switches. About 49.00 and they work great.

[SeaSlugs]

Anyone make a quality 28/29 style like Tom pictured?

[updraught]

The RHD version is available from the UK for about 50 pounds.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

Anyone make a quality 28/29 style like Tom pictured?

The problem with some of the repro 28-9 switches that I've seen is one of the contacts inside the case will touch ground in the off position. If that contact terminal is wired to the light, and the other contact wired to the power wire, then you have no problem, but reverse the two wires and you have smoking wires.

The other problem with the 28-9 design is, if the brakes aren't kept in good adjustment, the solid link can pull the rod through the end of the case. A better design would be to have a pin through the end of the rod to act as a stop, then use a spring rather than a solid link to pull on the switch rod.

[C26Pinelake]

You can't go wrong with A & L, skip the others ! Wayne

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The problem with some of the repro 28-9 switches that I've seen is one of the contacts inside the case will touch ground in the off position. If that contact terminal is wired to the light, and the other contact wired to the power wire, then you have no problem, but reverse the two wires and you have smoking wires.

The other problem with the 28-9 design is, if the brakes aren't kept in good adjustment, the solid link can pull the rod through the end of the case. A better design would be to have a pin through the end of the rod to act as a stop, then use a spring rather than a solid link to pull on the switch rod.

Is the shorting contact an easy fix? I dont mind reworking a repo part if it means its going to function better...and not be a fire hazard...
Your second comment i would guess be the reason why henry went to the 30/31 design - switch is only activated when the brakes are released not during the entire time the brake pedal moves...

[wrndln]

The problem I have heard about is trying to unbend the 4 tabs that hold the top of the switch case to the lower part. Is there a good method of dissembling the switch to keep the tabs from breaking off when unbending them when disassembling the switch and rebending the when it is reassembled? I have several original 28/29 switches that need work inside and probably some tweaking to make them work well.
Rusty Nelson

[Tom Wesenberg]

The repro fix would be easy if you can unbend the 4 tabs without them breaking. I would think you can do it on a repro, at least one time. Marco recommends using heat to bend the tabs. I haven't used heat to get them red hot, but that does sound like a good idea. I did one original switch repair OK without heat, but I broke a tab or two on another switch when I didn't use heat.

[C26Pinelake]

Difficult to argue with a man like Marco! Wayne

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Some have used the old Chev, lever type switch, just screw it under the floor board & the lever is operated by the brake pedal, it's EASY.
Bill Makeshift

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The repro fix would be easy if you can unbend the 4 tabs without them breaking. I would think you can do it on a repro, at least one time. Marco recommends using heat to bend the tabs. I haven't used heat to get them red hot, but that does sound like a good idea. I did one original switch repair OK without heat, but I broke a tab or two on another switch when I didn't use heat.

Do you know which contact is the one that shorts to the case? (hence which way to wire it up)

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

Do you know which contact is the one that shorts to the case? (hence which way to wire it up)

Just use an ohm meter and see if either terminal has contact with the body when the switch is in the off position. If one terminal makes contact to the body, then use that terminal for the taillight wire.

Actually you'd also want to check to make sure that neither terminal makes contact to the body in the on position, or you'd have to remove the cover and fix it.

[Kube]

Want to thank all who had helped me out here. THANK YOU!

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Kube

Want to thank all who had helped me out here. THANK YOU!

Hey Mike,
I think that I may have one or two ORIGINAL Ford '30/'31 switches.
If your interested, let me know in a PM, and I'll do a search.
If you are in a hurry, I'd take some of the advice given for sources here