Replacing CCPU mirror glass

[wrndln]

Can someone that has replaced the mirror in an original CCPU mirror bracket assembly please explain how they did it? The metal part looks like there are two pieces of metal pressed together tightly. The actual mirror glass has a rubber gasket around it. It looks very hard to separate the two metal pieces without ruining them. I am putting two pictures of a bracket below. Any help would be appreciated.
Rusty Nelson

[Dan Partain]

Rusty,

I replaced mine in the 70's and it was easier than I thought it would be. The mirror in mine was cracked and a piece missing. I removed the rest of the mirror glass and then suported the inside back of the mirror on a piece of wood 2x6 I cut round to fit.

Once the back was supported and the mirror was gone I tapped around the edge of the ring (just a press fit) with a large blade screw driver. Since the mirror glass was gone it allowed the ring to tilt just a little bit to break any rust bonding between the ring and the mirror body.

If I ever do it again I'll probably not use a screwdriver but instead bend the end of some 1/8" thick by 1" flatstock steel to the curvature of the ring and tap on that.

I don't remember if I soaked it or not but it'd be a good idea once the glass is out. I think I only had WD40 back then and way less patience.

[wrndln]

Dan,
You are a big help as usual. I was thinking maybe the mirror glass would need to be removed first before the metal rim could be removed. You confirmed that. The only problem I see with that is it might be hard to determine the diameter of the new mirror. The diameter might be determined by figuring it out by the diameter of the rim, less the rubber gasket thickness times two. When the mirror is gone I could put it in some molasses, Evapo-Rust or my electrolysis tank to maybe help break the rust bond between the main part and the rim. Making the special tool from flat stock sounds like a good idea. Did the screwdriver ding the rim up? Thanks for the good description of how you did yours - much appreciated.
Rusty

[Craig Lewis]

I've fixed various shapes of mirrors like this and found them to be basically the same.

1) Duct tape face of mirror.
2) Loosen 3 screws in back.
3) Hold mirror with a leather glove & drive stud inward with mallet so it breaks glass, pushing it out in the centre. Your duct tape should hold the pieces together.
4) Take this intact (broken) piece to your glass shop.
Ask for automotive grade mirror which is different than household mirror.
5) The gasket will peel out of the housing, bead blast the inner and paint everything. Grease & install stud with 3 screws.
6) Scrub the gasket in hot soapy water.
7) While still warm and dripping with soap, slip gasket around mirror and fit to housing by tucking as much as possible of the rubber into the housing, working it past the sharp edge with a hard plastic stick or old credit card.
8) Place something flat (like a hockey puck) against the mirror and 'pop' it into place.
In the event it's too tight to pop....whittle down the edges of your mirror with some emery cloth.
Be extra careful to blow every trace of emery grit off the mirror before wiping glass...especially since automotive grade mirror is less forgiving than regular mirror = it's easily scratched.

[wrndln]

Craig,
Thanks for the instructions you provided. It does seem like with the fairly large lip on the front of the rim, it would be difficult to install the mirror without removing the pressed on rim like Dan indicated. Have you replaced the mirror in a CCPU bracket before in this manor? If the rim had a smaller lip, it would seem the new mirror could be pushed into place, but with a wide lip - ???. The idea of taping the mirror before breaking it to remove it is a good idea to determine the diameter of the new mirror to be cut. Thanks for the information - every bit helps.
Rusty

[Steve Plucker]

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Rusty,

Now that would be a great "restoration article" for Model A News and/or The Restorer or even the Double A'er!!

Pluck

[wrndln]

Steve,
First, I would have to successfully replace the mirror glass. I am not real confident how it will go. I sure don't want to ruin the original mirror bracket assembly. The mirror in the pictures I posted is not mine, but I have an original mirror just like it, I was just to lazy to dig it out and take pictures of it. When I try to do it, I will take some pictures and see how it goes.
Rusty

[mleder]

Rusty, I have the exact mirror on my truck and replaced the glass last year. Call me, we are in the same Model A club( TCMFCA). I can tell you what I did but don't have the time at the moment to write it up in this forum. Mark Leder Minneapolis

[Craig Lewis]

Originally Posted by wrndln

Craig,
Thanks for the instructions you provided. It does seem like with the fairly large lip on the front of the rim, it would be difficult to install the mirror without removing the pressed on rim like Dan indicated. Have you replaced the mirror in a CCPU bracket before in this manor? If the rim had a smaller lip, it would seem the new mirror could be pushed into place, but with a wide lip - ???. The idea of taping the mirror before breaking it to remove it is a good idea to determine the diameter of the new mirror to be cut. Thanks for the information - every bit helps.
Rusty

>> I have not changed a mirror quite this old.
It "looks" like standard procedure is what I'm saying.
Once the glass is gone, the rubber has no choice but to come out.
If there's any surprises it will be simple to figure out once you have the components on the bench for reassembly. As long as the rubber is supple it has to go together, as they didn't set out to make things difficult back then ... things were serviceable and besides the worse that can happen is you break a mirror and need to cut another.
Just do it.
Remember to keep the rubber fairly warm and lubed as you push it in. Even rock hard OEM rad hoses turn to jello when submerged in hot tapwater.
*Oh & by the way "Bad luck" only applies when breaking residential mirrors, automotive mirrors are exempt

[d.j. moordigian]

If the interior mirror is some odd ball thickness(7/32"=.218") would this
exterior mirror be the same thickness or a more standardized thickness?

How was the fit and finish after the mirror replacement if the glass is
a different thickness?

[wrndln]

I don't think the CCPU mirror glass is nearly as thick as the inside rearview mirror glass on passenger cars. Without having the mirror glass removed in my CCPU mirror bracket, I suspect it is about 1/8" thick. The reason I think this is the inside mirrors don't have a frame/rubber to support the glass (need to be thicker), whereas the CCPU mirror does.
Rusty

[Craig Lewis]

Here's yet another idea.
Remove 1 screw and hold a rubber tipped air nozzle against the hole.
1 blast of air and the glass might pop out.
Duct tape the mirror first of course...wear eye protection and wrap an old blanket around things in case glass starts flying.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

Here's yet another idea.
Remove 1 screw and hold a rubber tipped air nozzle against the hole.
1 blast of air and the glass might pop out.
Duct tape the mirror first of course...wear eye protection and wrap an old blanket around things in case glass starts flying.

That's what I'd also try first. With soaking the rim and a bit of luck, the rim might also pop off.

[Craig Lewis]

I just noticed the mirror has an outer metal rim. Sorry but my home computer has a dark screen(long story) and now at work I see the steel rim.
It will be rusted on.
Kroil is the best juice to soak this in.
After a couple days lay the mirror face down on a hockey puck & try and tap the edge of rim with a carefully curved & shaped piece of tin and it might pop off. Any damage it sustains will be created by you....so choose your weapons carefully.
OK, I'm done, good luck.

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

I just noticed the mirror has an outer metal rim. Sorry but my home computer has a dark screen(long story) and now at work I see the steel rim.
It will be rusted on.
Kroil is the best juice to soak this in.
After a couple days lay the mirror face down on a hockey puck & try and tap the edge of rim with a carefully curved & shaped piece of tin and it might pop off. Any damage it sustains will be created by you....so choose your weapons carefully.
OK, I'm done, good luck.

I'll buy that!
If a wooden plug, the same size as the mirror for backing, then tap
the outer ring off? Craig?

[Craig Lewis]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

I'll buy that!
If a wooden plug, the same size as the mirror for backing, then tap
the outer ring off? Craig?

Sure.
Here's another idea...place a large hose clamp around the housing (not tight) and just tap the clamp with a hammer so it pushes off the rim with zero damage.
Why didn't I think of this the first time

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

Sure.
Here's another idea...place a large hose clamp around the housing (not tight) and just tap the clamp with a hammer so it pushes off the rim with zero damage.
Why didn't I think of this the first time

This whole thread could get out of control!
Machine up a piece of Aluminum tubing....net fit...then start taping
it off.
Why didn't I think of this the first time. LOL

[Dan Partain]

Rusty,

You asked if the large screwdriver made any nicks in the rim, it didn't. As I say, mine rim came off very easily once the mirror was out of it.

I saved the measurements from the old mirror regarding thickness, and maybe diameter but I can't find it at the moment. Diameter will be easy to figure out with a test cardboard piece and your old mirror for comparison, same with thickness.

I remember having to settle for a thinner piece of mirror than the original that came out of mine. I'm looking forward to a re-do of my mirror at some time in the future.

-DAN

[wrndln]

Thanks for the update, Dan. I dug my mirror out of storage. It is going to need a little "bodywork" done to it. The rim has a few small dings on it and the place where the pivot ball is located is split a little. I think the bracket is made of pretty thin metal and will probably need to be TIG welded where the pivot ball is located. It would be nice to get a little nicer one if I can find one.
Rusty