The Ford Barn

gringo · 11-25-2012, 12:57 AM

wow ! i would have thought it would have slipped off the the jack or made it tip over...good job

Glenn Thoreson · 11-25-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatjack9

What say you, Glen?

I say Old Henry is the only one here that seems to understand what I'm trying to tell you. Maybe the way I do it only works out here in the west. Good job, Henry!
Mountainous molehill, indeed. I'm done.

Oh, by the way, NEVER expect anything to be any good when you take one of these things apart. You may as well plan on replacing the whole works from the outset. That way you won't be disappointed.

I might add thet I pulled the rear end out from under my '42 this summer to put 3.54 gears and new bearings in it. What I ended up doing when all was said and done was replacing everything but the center section, torque tube , carrier and drive shft. Axle tubes had bad races on the ends, axle keyways were wallowed out, hub keyways wallowed out, etc. In other words, I had to build a whole new one. The only thing that made me happy as hell was the drive shaft center bearing was good. That saved 200 bucks. I'm getting old and have a hard time even getting up off the creeper and can hardly move. Still, out in 2 hours. In in less than 2 hours and the spring didn't go boing or crash or anything else. Maybe I just live right.

Mart · 11-25-2012, 02:38 PM

Another way to hold the spring if you do not want to dismantle it, or do not have a spreader, is to cut a length of heavy wall rectangular tube so it just about fits between the spring eyes when the car weight is on the spring. Get it in place and jack up the car, leaving the axle on the ground. As the weight comes off the spring, the ends move inwards clamping the tubing even tighter. Cutting the ends at an angle will help the "spreader" to stay firmly wedged in place.

As the weight comes off the spring you can remove the shackles and if you want, remove the spring from the car.

As long as there is a straight shot between the spring ends, and the eyes are not reversed, it works well. It will not work on a curved 32-34 spring.

Mart.

Milt K from Pa · 11-25-2012, 08:32 PM

To Glenn T,
I wish to apologize for my incorrect comment on removing the shackles and the rear end. I performed this today looking for a vibration in my '34, using the method you aspired, with a spring spreader as a safety. Your method works!! On the '34. the spring is curved, front to rear making using a spreader difficult as it collides with the diff. banjo. Jacking upward against the spring ends spreads the spring allowing the shackle bars to slide off. I'm glad to learn new and better methods. Also I believe I found my vibration, being the universal joint. There is about 1/8th inch play on one side of the "X" center portion, even though the snap rings are in the grooves and nothing is broken. I think I bought a NOS universal when I built my car, but overlooked the play in the unit. Maybe one side of the "U" part of the yoke is spread, allowing the gap. I don't like using "NEW" parts, I'd rather get a good rebuilt one. Does any of our group of "Barners" provide this service??
Thanks again Glenn for your tutoring.
Milt K from Pa

5speedrod · 05-13-2014, 04:08 PM

I am a newbie here and would like to comment on Glen's post near the beginning of this thread.
I followed his instructions to a tee, and had the rearend and torque tube out in a little over 2 hours. I left the spring in the car as he suggested and had no issues with spring tension ,etc. Having never done this before, I was a little leary about attempting this especially after reading comments to the contrary, but the job was not that bad at all. Before I unbolted the spring ends at the shackles, I checked very carefully that there was no tension on the spring. The way I checked was to first adjust the height of the rearend with a floor jack until it looked visually that the spring was at rest/neutral position(nice reverse arc). Then I looked at the spring stack near each end to make sure there was no seperation between the leaves, that I couldn't see light between them. Finally I grabbed the shackles and was able to move them back and forth fairly easly so I was confident that there was no tension on the leave spring. I unbolted the spring ends and ends did not move at all when i pulled the bolts out. As long as you make absolutely sure that there is no tension on the spring you will have no issue. Hope this helps some one else attempting this job!

11-25-2012, 12:57 AM	#41
gringo Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ivanhoe,cal. Posts: 20	Re: best way to remove a 40 ford rear end wow ! i would have thought it would have slipped off the the jack or made it tip over...good job

11-25-2012, 02:38 PM	#43
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,750	Re: best way to remove a 40 ford rear end Another way to hold the spring if you do not want to dismantle it, or do not have a spreader, is to cut a length of heavy wall rectangular tube so it just about fits between the spring eyes when the car weight is on the spring. Get it in place and jack up the car, leaving the axle on the ground. As the weight comes off the spring, the ends move inwards clamping the tubing even tighter. Cutting the ends at an angle will help the "spreader" to stay firmly wedged in place. As the weight comes off the spring you can remove the shackles and if you want, remove the spring from the car. As long as there is a straight shot between the spring ends, and the eyes are not reversed, it works well. It will not work on a curved 32-34 spring. Mart.

11-25-2012, 08:32 PM	#44
Milt K from Pa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pittsburgh Pa. Area Posts: 272	Re: best way to remove a 40 ford rear end To Glenn T, I wish to apologize for my incorrect comment on removing the shackles and the rear end. I performed this today looking for a vibration in my '34, using the method you aspired, with a spring spreader as a safety. Your method works!! On the '34. the spring is curved, front to rear making using a spreader difficult as it collides with the diff. banjo. Jacking upward against the spring ends spreads the spring allowing the shackle bars to slide off. I'm glad to learn new and better methods. Also I believe I found my vibration, being the universal joint. There is about 1/8th inch play on one side of the "X" center portion, even though the snap rings are in the grooves and nothing is broken. I think I bought a NOS universal when I built my car, but overlooked the play in the unit. Maybe one side of the "U" part of the yoke is spread, allowing the gap. I don't like using "NEW" parts, I'd rather get a good rebuilt one. Does any of our group of "Barners" provide this service?? Thanks again Glenn for your tutoring. Milt K from Pa

05-13-2014, 04:08 PM	#45
5speedrod Junior Member Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 3	Re: best way to remove a 40 ford rear end I am a newbie here and would like to comment on Glen's post near the beginning of this thread. I followed his instructions to a tee, and had the rearend and torque tube out in a little over 2 hours. I left the spring in the car as he suggested and had no issues with spring tension ,etc. Having never done this before, I was a little leary about attempting this especially after reading comments to the contrary, but the job was not that bad at all. Before I unbolted the spring ends at the shackles, I checked very carefully that there was no tension on the spring. The way I checked was to first adjust the height of the rearend with a floor jack until it looked visually that the spring was at rest/neutral position(nice reverse arc). Then I looked at the spring stack near each end to make sure there was no seperation between the leaves, that I couldn't see light between them. Finally I grabbed the shackles and was able to move them back and forth fairly easly so I was confident that there was no tension on the leave spring. I unbolted the spring ends and ends did not move at all when i pulled the bolts out. As long as you make absolutely sure that there is no tension on the spring you will have no issue. Hope this helps some one else attempting this job!