Trunk won't stay open

[daoust]

The trunk on my 1947 Ford convertible wont stay open on its own. Is that just a hinge adjustment of some kind?

Thank you.

[Kube]

Typically it is worn out support arms. While the springs usually remain strong enough to "do the job", wear at the pivot points allows the geometry to change enough to keep the arms working as they should.

I am not certain new arms are reproduced for your car. Still, it's fairly easy to rebuild yours.
Once disassembled, I am 99% certain you will find the pivot hole(s) worn out. You'll need to weld them closed and re-drill to the proper size. Install new rivets and you're all done!

[trainguy]

I fixed my 46 Merc. Altering the stop allowing the support arm to stop straighter,thus better supporting the trunk(took about 15 min.to fix)The same fix works on hoods.Phil

[Steves46]

I bought a replacement set (made by Bob Drake) for my 46 Coupe 4 years ago from Joe's Antique Auto; to-date, they are holding strong. His on-line catalog has them listed for $140 a pair. Steve

[oldford2]

The trunk on our 46 stays open but it doesn't take much effort to pull the hinge back "off center" to allow it to close. So, as a safety precaution I used a short length of channel iron, milled a slot so it could slide up to allow the joint to close. And drilled and tapped the upper hinge bar. The channel is free to slide so when you open the trunk it slides down by itself and locks the hinge. To close the trunk just right hand on trunk and slide the channel up with your left. Works great. By the way, I am not smart enough to design this. Copied the design years ago from on the Fordbarn.
John

[funrunr]

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oldford2, that is clever, I bought new hinges for my coupe and during mock-up and fitment they worked good. After disassembling for paint and reinstalling they didn't perform. I know alignment played a role but my decklid has perfect gaps and I could live with holding one handed, that is until I see your resolution. Thanks for passing on the tip.

[Kube]

Another even simpler (and less noticeable) method is to drill an 1/8" hole through both the top and bottom arm on one side (where they intersect). Slip a 1/8" machine screw or rivet in the hole and the lid can't be let down. Paint it black and no one will notice.

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by Kube

Another even simpler (and less noticeable) method is to drill an 1/8" hole through both the top and bottom arm on one side (where they intersect). Slip a 1/8" machine screw or rivet in the hole and the lid can't be let down. Paint it black and no one will notice.

OK Kube. That is another way but we not worried about it being "noticed". Our 46 is a driver and not a show car. Your suggestion is a good alternative for judged cars (certainly better than the broom sticks we see holding up hoods and trunk lids).
John

[funrunr]

Either of the two are great solutions, however I do think Kube's trick would be the easiest and most inconspicuous. Thanks guys

[Kube]

Originally Posted by oldford2

OK Kube. That is another way but we not worried about it being "noticed". Our 46 is a driver and not a show car. Your suggestion is a good alternative for judged cars (certainly better than the broom sticks we see holding up hoods and trunk lids).
John

Hey guys, my first inclination is to repair the support arms - not install a "safety catch". That is simply an option should the original poster so desire.
Repairing those arms is in fact fairly easy.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by Kube

Another even simpler (and less noticeable) method is to drill an 1/8" hole through both the top and bottom arm on one side (where they intersect). Slip a 1/8" machine screw or rivet in the hole and the lid can't be let down. Paint it black and no one will notice.

Great tip, as an extension of Kubes idea if you do not care about the safety being seen instead of a rivet or screw consider a locking pin with a ring... Attaching a ribbon to the ring could prevent damage when if you forgot the prop arm was locked.

[funrunr]

In my situation where alignment is the culprit I appreciate the bandaid vs the refitment issue, this solution fits my needs. Thanks for the suggestion. Even if I was to solve my problem correctly, I will never trust the hinges completely with my head in the trunk without some type of safety support again.

[Bolts]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have the same problem with my '48 coupe. The stays are badly worn and I think they are both bent from having the hole worn so much. I made a little lock like the one oldford2 showed. It does work great, but would someone be so kind to post a picture of the stays from the rear and side so I can see what the detent looks like and discover if I need to bend the ones I have back straight? I want to rebuild them but don't know what the features look like.
Thanks, Alex