Replacement Ignition Switch

[Chuck Dempsey]

My 40+ year old JC Whitney pop-out switch has finally given up. A minor 'short' is in it about half the time I shut it off. Question - Is MAC's item Part #: 28-20844-1 all I need to replace it with? I know it's not the 'pop-out' type, just a straight 'on-off' switch, but I'm looking to simplify as much as I can. The description does not mention needing any panel or gas tank modifications, like some of their other switches do.



Thanks all

[Steve Wastler]

I would never buy from Macs anything. Try Brattons or Bert’s

[Bob C]

Those cheap switches are no good. The vendors carry a good one, see the link.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/re-pop-switch


Bob

[Ernie Vitucci]

Bratton's, Burts and Snyders have all provided me with excellent service and quality parts. Ernie in Arizona

[Chuck Dempsey]

Bob C - That Snyder's switch looks good, but the instructions scare me -

Model A Re-Pop Switch
This is a very good quality off-on switch that has been modified to mount and look like the original pop out style switch. When installed, it looks just like the old pop out switch. Genuine Nu-Rex. Your instrument panel must have the cup crimped to the dash panel for mounting this switch. Often people file the original ignition switch hole to a larger size to use an aftermarket ignition switch and remove this cup.


Have you, or anyone else on the Forum, done the 'crimping' needed to get this switch to work? I've got a replacement panel (Mac's, I'm afraid...) so I'd hate to buy this switch before knowing whether I could do the needed adjustments, or if the panel would work at all....


Thanks again!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The crimp is factory original, and you don't need to modify a thing. It's when people remove the crimp for a poor fitting aftermarket switch that you will have problems.

[cpf240]

They are talking about the stock part of the instrument panel... that part should be there, as the original switch mounted to it.


They are letting people know that if that factory part of the instrument panel has been removed at some point, this new switch won't mount properly, if at all.

[Chuck Dempsey]

OK, I think I see. So if my Mac's panel has the 'original style' bracket that holds the three mounting screws, then I'm GOOD TO GO. If I'm still confused, please let me know....

Thanks

[Mike Peters]

I installed one of these 50 dollar Nu-Rex switches in a car a couple weeks ago. Works fine, but oddly, the one I have is a three position switch. On off and two on positions. I just turn the key all the way to the right for on. It fit well in the dash panel cup the same way an original pop out does with the three little screws.

[Chuck Dempsey]

Mike Peters - thanks for the update. I ordered mine from Snyders this morning..

[5lugnuts]

The crimp is factory original, and you don't need to modify a thing. It's when people remove the crimp for a poor fitting aftermarket switch that you will have problems.

How is the crimped part removed to install the colored "on" "off" plate that marks the switch as ignition?

[Mike Peters]

As far as I know, the crimped on switch mounting cup behind the dash panel is not removed for any reason. There is a round bezel with four mounting tabs that engage the dash panel around the switch that will pin/hold down the ON/OFF plate. The bezel and ON/OFF plate mount on the FRONT face of your dash panel. Two separate issues are being confused here.

[Flathead]

In my opinion that expensive switch is a good product, have one in my A with no problems. Mounts to the dash just like the popout did, no modifications needed.

[Purdy Swoft]

I use the expensive swith in mine with good results. The cheap switch can't be depended on .

[KGBnut]

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

I installed one of these 50 dollar Nu-Rex switches in a car a couple weeks ago. Works fine, but oddly, the one I have is a three position switch. On off and two on positions. I just turn the key all the way to the right for on. It fit well in the dash panel cup the same way an original pop out does with the three little screws.

Mike,

It sounds like you got one the of the two-position switches. The extra position is for accessories, like a radio. You can be parked and listen to the radio without sending power to your coil and potentially burning out your points.

I would bet it has three contacts on the back.

Ken

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by Chuck Dempsey

My 40+ year old JC Whitney pop-out switch has finally given up. A minor 'short' is in it about half the time I shut it off. Question - Is MAC's item Part #: 28-20844-1 all I need to replace it with? I know it's not the 'pop-out' type, just a straight 'on-off' switch, but I'm looking to simplify as much as I can. The description does not mention needing any panel or gas tank modifications, like some of their other switches do.



Thanks all

Mac's is not really a pop out! It does function, but I agree with others..........Quality sometimes is just not there! Look around a bit more. There are several reputable Model A Ford parts sellers out there.

[mightynova63]

I had a pop out switch that was no good so I made this. This puts the aftermarket switch into the original hole letting you use the original 3 screws mount. It's still a work in progress but it's close. It holds the key tight and looks original from the front. 3d printing technology in a model A.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

I installed one of these 50 dollar Nu-Rex switches in a car a couple weeks ago. Works fine, but oddly, the one I have is a three position switch. On off and two on positions. I just turn the key all the way to the right for on. It fit well in the dash panel cup the same way an original pop out does with the three little screws.

Originally Posted by KGBnut

Mike,

It sounds like you got one the of the two-position switches. The extra position is for accessories, like a radio. You can be parked and listen to the radio without sending power to your coil and potentially burning out your points.

I would bet it has three contacts on the back.

Ken

3rd contact is useless unless you rewire your switch between battery and coil, with points connected direct. With stock wiring all you have at the switched side contacts is pulsing ground from the points and flashback spikes from the coil. Your 6V radio will never warm up.