09-09-2015, 10:51 PM | #161 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Go with Walt and use the late pump.
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09-20-2015, 05:25 PM | #162 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Is the oil relief plunger in the block part number 6663 and the oil relief spring in the block part # 6654 the same as the plunger and the oil relief spring in the oil pump ?
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09-21-2015, 07:28 PM | #163 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Wondering if they are the same I haven't found many good pictures with part numbers of the oil pump.
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09-29-2015, 09:47 AM | #164 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
These are the parts from the pump that I am talking about.
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10-03-2015, 09:24 PM | #165 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Just looked at my new valve springs they are longer than the originals I'm assuming that this is because they haven't been under tension.
Is this correct ? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
10-03-2015, 11:43 PM | #166 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
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Springs can be made different to and its pressure at installed height thats interesting. |
10-04-2015, 07:55 AM | #167 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
The new springs I got from reds headers they are the stock replacement. What difference will it make using a longer valve spring?
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10-04-2015, 09:37 AM | #168 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
It depends on if it has the same tension at installed height or not.
Cant tell if its right or not unless you put it in a springtester compairing to known value or running the pump against a pressure gauge. |
10-04-2015, 07:49 PM | #169 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Ok I might go with a new oil pump.
But I am now asking about the new valve springs. The new ones are longer than the old ones I took out. Is this because they haven't been under tension? Are new valve springs usually longer then what you have taken out? |
10-05-2015, 07:22 PM | #170 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Will I have to use different valve keepers with the longer spring ?
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10-05-2015, 07:38 PM | #171 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Macdozer, looking back to page 3 of posts, your original valve assemblies are late 8BA with shorter springs for the two-piece rotator retainers. You'll have to use
'49-'50 one-piece retainers for the longer springs. Lonnie |
10-05-2015, 07:45 PM | #172 | |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Quote:
You won't really be able to tell much by "sight", you need (reasonably) exact numbers in this area. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. We work with various springs, retainers, and locks on different platforms. Occasionally we use the locks that give a .050" shorter installed hgt, and we also use some that give a .050" taller hgt. Depends mostly on the spring pkge combo and the "target" pressure!
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10-05-2015, 08:27 PM | #173 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
It looks like with the longer springs I will need the retainer and the lock keys only. I will not need the "sleeve"
I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got. Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
10-06-2015, 08:22 AM | #174 | |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Quote:
Like I mentioned above, you can alter the spring hgts/pressures by using the valve locks if needed. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. Here's a shot of both setups, you should use the one on the left side!
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10-09-2015, 08:14 AM | #175 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
MacDozer, Did you figure out if the valve springs are OK or do you need different ones. Very interesting thread !
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10-11-2015, 05:42 PM | #176 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
I had to go with the 1BA - 6513 valve springs. They are shorter springs. The valves that use just the retainers and the locks use longer springs. I am using the original valves and staying with the set up that was in the motor.
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10-11-2015, 05:47 PM | #177 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
What do most rebuilders do with the main crankshaft bearing cap studs? The studs came out with nuts.
Should I reuse or find new ones for the crankshaft bearing caps? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
10-12-2015, 06:25 PM | #178 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Where would be a good place to get new cap studs / bolts for the crankshaft bearing caps?
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10-12-2015, 08:10 PM | #179 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
speedway will sell you some arp bolts.
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10-13-2015, 08:51 AM | #180 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it.
Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block. It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area. |
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