Model A Thread sizes for frontend parts tie rod

[vulture]

I am looking for the thread size for the model a tie rod. It must be a odd size were we took a mic to it and wasn't any tap or die we had in our toolbox. I am just looking to chase the threads to clean it up were it's built up with grease and dirt. Also best place to buy weld in ball studs or taper studs in quantity Thank you

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm not a fan of drilling and welding in the new steering ball. A much better and stronger method is to mill off the old ball using a hollow end mill, which leaves the original shank in place. A new hollow ball is then pressed on and end welded to lock it on. A&L does this work. These can also be purchased from Bratton's and other Model A parts houses.

[machine girl]

11-16 /24 you can buy the dies (one left hand and not cheep)

[wrndln]

I second what Tom said. I had A&L do 3 sets of tie rod arms. They do a very good job and when installed, the repairs can't be detected. Also A&L is a little cheaper as the other parts suppliers add a little fee for handling/shipping.

As far as cleaning up the tie rod threads, I use a a wire wheel and it works fine. I have never seen, in the 3 or 4 tie rods I have used, any threads that need "chasing". I suspect the dies would be quite expensive and like machine girl said you need 2 of them.
Rusty Nelson

[Terry,NJ]

Also! Make sure you only do your chasing of ANY thread on a Mod A with a split or adjustable die. This is so the die will "Adjust" to the size of the thread. Solid dies will remove too much stock from the thread. For the record, Henry used tighter thread fits than are available today and it's best to maintain this fit.
Terry

[vulture]

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Hi thanks for the reply but have 11/16 24 L and R thread but doesn't seem correct. It's removing too much materials. I even tossed it on the lathe and still way too tight.

Originally Posted by machine girl

11-16 /24 you can buy the dies (one left hand and not cheep)

[vulture]

I have a thread file but also want to clean up the female parts. I am kinda goofy with threads being a tool maker

Originally Posted by 1930 coupe

If you are just cleaning dirt and a ding or two, a THREAD FILE would work and is much cheaper than special left hand dies.

[vulture]

I haven't seen the hollow balls you speak of? I usually tight or mig materials to fill the wear spot and put it on the surface grinder dress the wheel to fit radius. I like the idea of the hollow end mill and will have to buy one for the Bridgeport and seems easier but still would have to pin and weld the ball on. I figure the ones in the catalog that have the shank or taper can be pinned and plug welded and tagged on the end gap.

Originally Posted by wrndln

I second what Tom said. I had A&L do 3 sets of tie rod arms. They do a very good job and when installed, the repairs can't be detected. Also A&L is a little cheaper as the other parts suppliers add a little fee for handling/shipping.

As far as cleaning up the tie rod threads, I use a a wire wheel and it works fine. I have never seen, in the 3 or 4 tie rods I have used, any threads that need "chasing". I suspect the dies would be quite expensive and like machine girl said you need 2 of them.
Rusty Nelson

[vulture]

I like this idea and might be just as easy to put it into a indexing head with a 4 jaw chuck. Just indicate her in and rotate the head. As always more then one way to skin a cat, would like to find hollow balls for this.... Do you have a source or does he machine them up, I guess I could as well and have all the machinery. We is that easy button

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'm not a fan of drilling and welding in the new steering ball. A much better and stronger method is to mill off the old ball using a hollow end mill, which leaves the original shank in place. A new hollow ball is then pressed on and end welded to lock it on. A&L does this work. These can also be purchased from Bratton's and other Model A parts houses.