Hand made tool to check toe in

[Jim M]

Yesterday I wanted to check the toe in looked in the Les Andrews manual. The chalk on the tires looked like a very suspect way to get an accurate so my old carpenter instincts kicked in. I cut two 20 inch sticks, drilled a hole in the center and mounted the sticks on the hubs. Very easy to put a tape measure on the front and back. Found out the toe in was 5/16 which was contributing to shakes, etc. Loosened the tie rod clamps and within minutes was at the 1/16 they should be. Hope this helps someone. Jim

[bobpo1]

Simple enough even for a guy like me. Thanks

[stouchton]

Did you plane the wood so you would have 1/16th accuracy?

Not trying to be a pain - just curious cause I can never find straight wood to save my life!!

[rscardina]

That's interesting. I've been wanting to check mine and I think I will try the same method. Thanks for posting your idea.

[Jim M]

Good point! I did not plane them but if I get positive feed back that this should work OK I am going to cut and plane two pieces of oak as a permanent "tool". Just wanted to get them close yesterday.

[TinCup]

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I like it. Simple and to the point.

[Y-Blockhead]

Good idea, Thanks for sharing.
If your concerned about warpage you could always make your tool out of metal...

[Fullraceflathead]

There are too many variables to be accurate using wood and the spindles and wheel bearings need to have the full weight of the vehicle on them. Remember the tolerance is less than a 1/32".

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

There are too many variables to be accurate using wood ...

As opposed to untrue wheels and uneven tire casings, haha. I see your point tho.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

There are too many variables to be accurate using wood and the spindles and wheel bearings need to have the full weight of the vehicle on them. Remember the tolerance is less than a 1/32".

agree not an accurate way of setting the toe in to specs even with jackstands . the wheels need to be on the ground.....

[bunnyc]

I like it.
Thanks for sharing!

[heneste]

If there's a worry about the wheels being on the ground, the same tool could be modified if you take an old lug nut, weld an extension (threaded rod on the end to get past the spokes) and then bolt that to the metal bar that you would do your measurements from.

[katy]

I cut two 20 inch sticks,

Toe-in is measured at the front and back of the wheels, methinks that your sticks should be 30" long, not 20", unless you allow for the difference when measuring.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Jim,

1. Usually two (2) pieces of S4S "select" hardwood coming from one length of wood which were run through the same "exact" setting on a planning machine will have "equal" thicknesses; however, wood thicknesses can always be verified with a micrometer.

2. Something that would be "most" interesting with your most clever idea would be to check:

A. Ford's recommended toe-in using "exact" tire measurements 6" above ground, rolling back and forth with the weight of your vehicle; or a front end alignment machine check; and compare this to:

B. Your toe-in wood measurements, (with your axle lifted per your indicated experiment), with toe-in measurements taken from a specified distance from the axle centerline, when your wood device is "level" and this wood device is set at a specified distance above the floor.

Thanks for sharing your most interesting and intellectual creative thinking.

[rudvirus]

Thanks you Jim for sharing that. I can see that it would really help someone get it close as possible or dead on, before they have the full weight of the car on the tires. Some people forget that not all rims are straight

Originally Posted by Jim M

Yesterday I wanted to check the toe in looked in the Les Andrews manual. The chalk on the tires looked like a very suspect way to get an accurate so my old carpenter instincts kicked in. I cut two 20 inch sticks, drilled a hole in the center and mounted the sticks on the hubs. Very easy to put a tape measure on the front and back. Found out the toe in was 5/16 which was contributing to shakes, etc. Loosened the tie rod clamps and within minutes was at the 1/16 they should be. Hope this helps someone. Jim

[Jim M]

The rims not being straight was one of the reasons I did not want to use my tires. That and the fact of getting a "chalk line" anywhere near accurate. Having the car down on the wheels with weight on them does seem to be the correct way. I like the suggestion of an extension off a lug nut to some type of bar (wood or metal). That would take the bent rim factor out, put the weight factor back in, and you could measure right at the front and back of the tire. Thanks for the suggestions.

[H. L. Chauvin]

When I acquired my 1930 Town Sedan, the front axle had a toe "out" setting of 2-1/2" or so ....... both rear hub nuts finger tight ...... 1-1/2" of Goo in bottom of oil pan .......... 3/4" Goo in valve chamber ............ "always" so very interesting to check out a newly acquired Model A or a neighbor's or good friend's Model A.

[31Abone]

I did the same thing last month but kept the tire wheel on..used steel 1/4" bar "not bent" and used bungie cords to hold bar tight on lower part of wheel/tire to clear hub cap ..seemed to work OK.could have made an adapter to go on outer rim if wanted..but tire measure was OK ..I did it twice that is I rotated tire/wheel 180 and checked it again...should taken a photo ? don't use the string method as shown on youtube=bad results

[Afordman31]

Here is a picture of the one I made, saw one being used like this on Youtube. Afordman31

[Mitch//pa]

after your done using your favorite method double check it on a modern rack. 9 times out of 10 you'll be surprised of how far off it is

[jmaotto]

I think, if it drives straight and does not wear tires, you have done good.

[Fullraceflathead]

The Shower rod when done correctly will take into account of any bent wheels as long as you roll the car forward and don't allow any rollback.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

WHATEVER method you use, the ACID TEST is to observe your tires for SCUFFING in/out & determine if you need to make a MINOR correction.
If they SCUFF from the outside to the inside, you're TOWED IN too far. If they SCUFF from the inside to the outside, you're TOWED OUT too much.
ANYWHERE on the car, you've got to lurn to look at/evaluate things, in general!
Bill W.

[Roger V]

Originally Posted by Afordman31

Here is a picture of the one I made, saw one being used like this on Youtube. Afordman31

That is the same principle as mine. The only accurate way is the method the alignment shops use which is chalk/spray and scribe a line on the tire to use your type gage.

[rudvirus]

WTF is these 2 post above me about

[Randy in ca]

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Originally Posted by rudvirus

wtf is these 2 post above me about

spam that's been reported and will be deleted.

[Y-Blockhead]

DON'T click on any of the links...

[Jason in TX]

Since front ends have play in them, you want the tires on the ground and to push the car forward first before measuring so that the wheels are where they would be going down the road.

It's a good idea to get you close, but not going to be your best measure.

I usually use a piece of rebar slid down inside a piece of conduit with a set screw. Also not 100% accurate, but I do it inside the wheels under the car after pushing forward and it's shown good results!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Jason in TX

Since front ends have play in them, you want the tires on the ground and to push the car forward first before measuring so that the wheels are where they would be going down the road.

It's a good idea to get you close, but not going to be your best measure.

I usually use a piece of rebar slid down inside a piece of conduit with a set screw. Also not 100% accurate, but I do it inside the wheels under the car after pushing forward and it's shown good results!

REBAR should receive an award of some kind, it's used in SO many HIDDEN places, for strength & safety! On one guys' chop job, he welded LONG pieces of it, INSIDE the door posts, for strength & safety! BUT, if not HIDDEN, everybody & their Dogs LAFF
I saw a security gate made of REBAR & it was a WORK of ART, built by a professional ARTISAN & almost rivaling a HIGH DOLLAR gate I saw, made entirely of HORSE SHOES!
Bill W.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by jason in tx

since front ends have play in them, you want the tires on the ground and to push the car forward first before measuring so that the wheels are where they would be going down the road.

It's a good idea to get you close, but not going to be your best measure.

x2.

[Fred K-OR]

Here is another "Hand Made tool" for a way to check front end alignment. Yes not to very accurate but got me a lot closer than I was. Marked it in front, rolled car forward and then checked in back.

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Here is another "Hand Made tool" for a way to check front end alignment. Yes not to very accurate but got me a lot closer than I was. Marked it in front, rolled car forward and then checked in back.

That's the simplest most well built example I've seen. I would think it would be fairly accurate if you used a square and straight edge to build it. I like it, count that one stolen.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Tiny

That's the simplest most well built example I've seen. I would think it would be fairly accurate if you used a square and straight edge to build it. I like it, count that one stolen.

Did use a square to build and to mark when used.

[msmaron]

Hmmm, used the chain method by ford yesterday and got a very accurate reading.....that seems to be the simple way to do it..the toe in rod is available on ebay, its where i got mine and we bought about 5 of them for other members.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Front end shop is ALWAYS BEST!
One posters' method of using 2 husky straight pins in the tread rubber & measuring between them, 6" off the floor, is probably about as accurate as many of the other methods. Watching for scuffing, later, is the ACID TEST to see if your setting is OK! REMEMBER, we're only dealing with 1/16" toe in, that's about the thickness of the SWEAT on YO' BROW or the MAPLE syrup on YO' PANCAKES!
Bill W.

[oldforder]

Luckily I still have the Bear alignment tools I used to use when I did alignment for my auto shop customers. I several times fixed the alignment that either didn't drive right or wore the tires on jobs that tire shops or dealers had done. That was on 60s and 70s cars though. When I checked the toe on my 29 that I got last fall, I had about 1 inch plus. I noticed some scuffing on the tires, although it seemed to drive ok. I set it to the 1/16 spec. Seems to drive the same, but should stop the tire wear. In about 1960 I bought a 42 chevy 3/4 ton pickup. It was really hard to hold straight down the road. Checked the toe, and it was 2+ inches toe OUT. Fixed that and then it was drivable.

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

agree not an accurate way of setting the toe in to specs even with jackstands . the wheels need to be on the ground.....

I agree with that !

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by stouchton

Did you plane the wood so you would have 1/16th accuracy?

Not trying to be a pain - just curious cause I can never find straight wood to save my life!!

Stouchton,
SAVE the crookedy wood to build a KROOKEDY Coffin, fer ME I wouldn't fit in an "OFF THE SHELF" one---To me, everybodys' Bumpers & Tail Lights look KROOKEDY
I'll have to try & remember that "CROOKEDY MAN" rhyme, I posted once.
Bill Warped

[Bill G]

I tried the expandable curtain rod approach and etching markings on the rod measuring between the walls of the tires, both front and back and instead of a chain, measuring the distance to the floor.

While I think I got it close, I could not help but think that if I really believed I had it dialed in within 1/16th of an inch, I was probably fooling myself. This is actually a reminder to myself to take it to a front-end shop and see if they can do any better. I'll bet the 20 something year-old guys at Les Schwab would just shrug and say "I dunno"!

[zzlegend]

Magicbox, I still use the curtain rod. And then sometimes I do it the old fashion way from 1965. Four quart cans of Pennzoil and two 6' pieces of 2"X2" square tubing. Sure gets it close enough for me. By 1/16th.
Just as a reminder, this thread was started about 2 1/2 years ago.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Believe it or not????? I saw a Guy stretch a LOOOOOONG Bungee Cord, around all 4 tires, about 6" off the ground & "determined" his TOE-IN!
He said, "IT'S CLOSE ENOUGH FOR ALL PRACTICAL PURPOSES & FARM EQUIPMENT"
Bill Seeneverything

[daren007]

5/16 contributing to the shakes etc.? Sounds like you have other issues as well.