Dropping the transmission

[BTERRY29]

What is the consensus on removing the transmission. Is it easier to pull the engine, or pull the rear end and removing it that way. In the past I have removed the engine and rear end, and initially it seams like dropping the rear might be easier. But, with the added weight of the bell housing, maybe not.

[Bob Bidonde]

In my opinion, it is easier to take a transmission out of a Model "A" by removing the rear axle assembly.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

In my opinion, it is easier to take a transmission out of a Model "A" by removing the rear axle assembly.

What Bob says is our preferred method too.

[Patrick L.]

Yep, I agree with Bob and Brent. Its a good opportunity for a quick nap too.

[Oldgearz]

Make it 4 for 4 on removing the rear end to take the tranny out.

[jeepguy1948]

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I'll make it 5. This may be obvious but take the floorboards out and everything is there to see and reach and all those things that can make working on an old car a pain. Also just accept going in that you will need to take the shift tower off. Unless you prefer it be as difficult as possible To drop it out. What makes it hard is that the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing go from inside the bellhousing so you must take the trans and bellhousing out as one awkward unit. here's a trick, get yourself two 3/8"-16 X 3" bolts (I feel safer with grade 5 or 8 but I'm sure anything is fine. Cut the heads off, remove the bolts in the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions that hold the bellhousing the the back of the motor/flywheel housing, screw your two new homemade dowel pins into those bolt holes. Now you can take all the other bolts out and just slide the tranny out. It makes it sooo much easier. I think that you have a floor jack and jackstands available you can have it out in an hour from when you start. Hope this helps.

[Tom Endy]

Without a doubt, unless you have a reason to pull the engine, pull the rear end and remove the transmission that way. Too many things to unhook to pull the engine.

Tom Endy

[old ugly]

if you have any issues with the engine that need to be addressed then take it out from the front.
but
it is faster to pull the rear end. less parts to remove.
you need to get the car supported high enough in the rear with stands in front of where the wishbones cross under the frame so they will clear the radius rods will not interfere with the jack stands.
make sure you have it supported correctly and high enough before you start lowering the rear end.
i do not take off the rear spring shackles. i only take off the center U-bolts that hold the spring to the crossmember.
i made and adaptor that fits on my floor jack to lower and raise the tranny back into the car. much needed if you don't have a helper. its heavy and awkward.
it is real handy to have a helper when lining up input shaft and the u-joint while lifting the rear end back up but it can be done alone.

[chrs1961815]

If pulling the rear end out, be careful with the rear spring. If the center bolt is broke things can go flying and there is a lot of tension on that rear spring.

[rotorwrench]

A lot depends on what you have to lift the car & aid in rolling the rear drive assembly. I'd say for the budget operator, a person needs two floor jacks to lift the rear frame/body just in front of the radius rods. Bottle jacks can be used but are less stable. This allows the whole rear to be wheeled out from under after complete disconnect of rear brake rod components, rear shock links, rear spring center U-bolts, exhaust pipe. and the front of the torque tube connections. Some folks take the rear spring off the axle so as not to have to jack it up so high but I leave it on. If a person has another floor jack or other type of wheeled jack or dollie to put under the rear axle then it can be dollied out with the rear wheels removed. I always put some taller jack stands under the rear of the frame to hold things solid till I can put everything back together.


If a person has the big bucks then a post lift can be used to do the job but the average DIY guy doesn't have stuff like that. It sure would be nice though.

[jeepguy1948]

I bought 3 of the cheapest of the little dollies from Harbor Freight (the wood ones that have a hole in the middle between the boards). I lower the rear axle until the brake drums rest in the dollies (into those holes i mentioned) gravity will hold the there. I tie the front of the torque tube to the front one. Now the entire assembly can be moved around very easy. It is pretty heavy but once it is out from under the car you can lift one side of the rear end at a time if you need to. A word of caution here, do not under any circumstances attempt to remove the rear spring from the axle without a spring spreader. It can be done with a bunch of big C clamps but I don't recommend it, particularly with the axle still under the car. That spring is extremely powerful and can kill you if you make a wrong move. Most guys know a place to borrow a spreader (front and rear are different)our club has them. I bought my own from Snyders, they are fairly inexpensive and I don't regret it one bit. Driving to and from where the tools are kept would cost me more than buying one. Just my $0.02. I can tell you this, if I had had all the information you are getting here it would sure as heck saved me a lot of time.

[Terry, NJ]

I'd say, removing the rear end is a lot easier than pulling the engine. Don't bother with a Spring speader. Leave the spring in place. Stand the spring on it's side work oil into the leaves (STP?) then flip it and you lube of choice in between the leaves on that side. I've noticed that the easiest way to handle a rear under the car is to drop it down on a hand truck laid flat. It maneuvers very easily. Next thing, Jack the back of the car very high and place safety jacks in front of the rear wheels. This will give you space to roll the hand truck and rear out. Break the assy at the universal and get the rear clear to take the transmission and bell housing out. Assemble in reverse order! Good luck!
Terry

[BillCNC]

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

If pulling the rear end out, be careful with the rear spring. If the center bolt is broke things can go flying and there is a lot of tension on that rear spring.

Yup, I wrap a chain around the front or rear springs whenever I remove the axles or have assembeled springs laying around. I had the rear explode seconds after I wrapped it with a chain and set it down. The center bolt said, ... I've had enough and the head of the bolt popped off and went wizzing by my girlfriends leg. Now, they are wrapped before the shackles get unbolted.

Regards
Bill