fordoor rain gutter help

[1930artdeco]

Hi all,


On a recent run to Sacramento, I almost lost the front screw on the pass side rain gutter due to rotten wood. Kept the screw, but the whole gutter was about ready to fall off. I safety wired it together and it held as a temp fix. It looks like all of the little nails from the pillar forward are coming right out of the wood. What is a good way to put them back in and hold them? Would wood glue hold? I am thinking some sort of glue but I think I will eventually have to take the whole thing off, glue the holes and then reinstall.


Thanks,


Mike

[duke36]

Suggest using an epoxy filler. We used to use a product called Kwik Poly (mixed reviews by others) that has a powder binder or can use hardwood sawdust mixed with it. Also, we have used toothpicks or small diameter dowels set in with the epoxy with good results.

[1930artdeco]

I was thinking of Kwik Poly, but will it hold on a vertical surface?


Mike

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

I was thinking of Kwik Poly, but will it hold on a vertical surface?


Mike

Mike, I know you are not going to like this, but bite the bullet and get some new top wood from Classic Wood and solve the problem once and for all! Good luck with it!
Terry

[1930artdeco]

Terry don't think I haven't though of that. I unfortunately, don't have 35K or the space for it. So I am stuck doing temp repairs until I can do a full resto on her.


Mike

[Will N]

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You might try taking up the slack in the nail holes by tapping an a toothpick coated in wood glue. If there isn't too much rot it might work.

[jrelliott]

You could get a large hypodermic syringe and needle and inject the kwik-poly into the nail holes and put a tooth pick in after injecting the kwik-poly. That way would stabilize the rotten wood and have some good wood also. I have found that the kwik-poly sets up pretty fast. Do not know of anything that would slow down the reaction time

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Terry don't think I haven't though of that. I unfortunately, don't have 35K or the space for it. So I am stuck doing temp repairs until I can do a full resto on her.


Mike

First I don't know what the 35K is for? A full restoration? Individual pieces can be had. I needed one curved piece for the R Rear door frame and they sold it to me. Classic wood in N.C.
Terry

[1930artdeco]

Terry, yep that is what the 35k was for. I figure I go in that far to replace the wood I might as well keep going. This why I will have to find a way to glue them back in as a temp fix. I will just have to find a way to use toothpicks and the kwik poly.

Mike

[Tacoma Bob]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Terry, yep that is what the 35k was for. I figure I go in that far to replace the wood I might as well keep going. This why I will have to find a way to glue them back in as a temp fix. I will just have to find a way to use toothpicks and the kwik poly.

Mike

Yo Mike. Go to Rockler wood working. You may want to consider cyanoacrilite Glue. Use a hypo to inject into the holes. the stuff will stabilize the wood fibers and dries in seconds. Then apply Kwik-Poly or something similar. Try googling wooden boat repair methods. Lots of excellent how to's on those sights.

[quickchange]

I have use a two pot marine glue ,mixed lots of fine saw dust into it & filled holes etc, even into hood bows where tacking is required, works very well, If you can dig out the rotten wood 1st, or in some cases the paper that was use in tack strips ,

[Terry, NJ]

OK Mike I hear you! I'm not familiar with Quik Poly myself, but I know the new products work well and I know the top wood is a BEEE-itch to replace. Good luck with it!
Terry

[SAJ]

Have you considered Minwax wood hardener which is an acrylic polymer dissolved in acetone or PC Petrifier, a water based similar polymer to impregnate the softened surrounding wood before filling the tack holes etc with a resin, glue, toothpicks, cyanoacrylate, Bondo or Kwik Poly.
I manufacture a water based one called Rot-Fix in NZ.
Not much help to you at this distance, but just to let you know I have some knowledge of what I am describing.
When I get time I will anoint and impregnate the rotted windscreen header board in our Tudor. I will then fill it with a polyester wood repair 2 pack that we also make (called Turbo Builder's Bog). Again only available in Australia and New Zealand so no help to you!
Google "Wood Hardener" to see more American brands.
What Quickchange said is also a very good method. It came through while I was typing
SAJ in Hawaii temporarily

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by SAJ

Have you considered Minwax wood hardener which is an acrylic polymer dissolved in acetone...

I have used Minwax Wood Hardener around the house with great success. I applied it to the wood in the doors of my Town Sedan the last time I had the door panels off. I installed Dynamat in the doors at the same time. The doors now sound and feel solid when you shut them.

I have been thinking about applying Minwax to my windshield header as some of the nails are lose.

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-417000...s%2C466&sr=8-1