The Ford Barn

Tudie 36 · 01-08-2022, 06:32 PM

Looking for suggestions. My newly acquired 1936 Tudor is slowly getting to the point that I’m not too worried about wearing comfortable walking shoes or the tow truck on speed dial. Starts pretty easy. I’ve changed oil and drained and refilled radiator, cleaned plugs, rebuilt carb(97), rebuilt generator and cut out. Dual 6volt optimas. Idles great but wants to stumble a little when under load. Someone installed a satellite coil. Today I changed condenser. I can tell a little difference but still stumbles at point of changing gear. Wife says I’m pushing too hard. I don’t think so. Today while changing condenser the new connection was a little tight and wanted to turn with the acorn nut as I was trying to hold the two connections still while I tightened I noticed the post was moving also. No time today but tomorrow going to add a tiny flat washer and try to tighten the post without removing the top of the distributor cover. Am I going the right direction? Thanks for any comments

ford38v8 · 01-08-2022, 08:09 PM

Tudie, (That's your moniker till you post your name!) Sounds like you have a stud into the aluminum distributor housing with the condenser under the stud nut? The stud may have stripped out the aluminum? I think you'd be wise to remove the assembly and figure out why it turns.

The adapter plate you have is not original, and is an aftermarket product used only to accommodate the remote coil you have. Most old timers will turn up their nose at the sight of such a device, myself included. Should your ignition be the culprit causing your stutter, get hold of Skip Haney in Florida. Skip can do a bang up job on all ignition issues you can throw at him.
Remember also, it may be a fuel issue. Your pump may be fighting to keep up with demand at higher RPMs, And/or, your float level may be set too low.

Tudie 36 · 01-08-2022, 08:19 PM

I don’t like the un natural look of the distributor either but that’s what it was as purchased. I’ll check ugly loose stud first then on to the carb if that doesn’t do it. Thanks, Greg Kirkland Rockford, Tennessee

JM 35 Sedan · 01-09-2022, 04:53 AM

I'm also not a big fan of using those adaptor plates on top of helmet distributors, and a remote mounted coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil that mounts on top of distributor and send it to Skip Haney to have it rewound. You'll also need to find a good original, or a modern condenser that mounts on back of coil.

FortyNiner · 01-09-2022, 05:33 AM

Was the carb rebuild done with a Daytona kit? Some of the lesser versions have under performing valves. Ask me how I know.

Tudie 36 · 01-09-2022, 09:11 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I'm also not a big fan of using those adaptor plates on top of helmet distributors, and a remote mounted coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil that mounts on top of distributor and send it to Skip Haney to have it rewound. You'll also need to find a good original, or a modern condenser that mounts on back of coil.

Thanks, I’ve put this on my list.

Tudie 36 · 01-09-2022, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FortyNiner

Was the carb rebuild done with a Daytona kit? Some of the lesser versions have under performing valves. Ask me how I know.

The kit came from Speedway. Master rebuild kit. Thanks

joe 1950 · 01-09-2022, 10:15 AM

I never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in, there not that costly i’ve always had good luck with champions H -10. but each to his own

Tudie 36 · 01-09-2022, 10:46 AM

[QUOTE=joe 1950never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in, there not that costly i’ve always had good luck with champions H -10. but each to his own[/QUOTE]

Agreed, if I had some laying around when I decided to inspect a couple I would have. Why would the last person change to a remote coil I wonder? As soon as new garage is finished and not working in an open carport, my plan is to take the couple of non original parts and change to as original as possible including some paint on heads etc. and a change of intake, this one has had a poor repair and wonder if a little air loss may also be an issue.

flatford8 · 01-09-2022, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tudie 36

The kit came from Speedway. Master rebuild kit. Thanks

If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark

Tudie 36 · 01-09-2022, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatford8

If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark

. Good to know, At least all my minor issues have been easy to get to. Thanks, Bigg

Ol' Ron · 01-09-2022, 12:43 PM

There are a number of fractions on the barn. Keep it stock at all costs, or I just like to drive my car, not a museum piece. and anything goes, as long as it doesn't cost much. Me!
In this case Skip is the best bet.
Gramps
PS WE all get along somewhat, because we love old Fords.

Tudie 36 · 01-09-2022, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

There are a number of fractions on the barn. Keep it stock at all costs, or I just like to drive my car, not a museum piece. and anything goes, as long as it doesn't cost much. Me!
In this case Skip is the best bet.
Gramps
PS WE all get along somewhat, because we love old Fords.

. Thanks, know how it is on Forums, Fishing forums can get plum ridiculous…Bigg

Ggmac · 01-09-2022, 07:17 PM

On the point of spark plugs . I use to clean , then just replace as I needed . I recently purchased a $25 tool - gadget, a 110 volt spark plug tester . It saved the day recently, had 8 new champion 10s installed and had a miss that wasn’t there before. This litspark plug tester proved the plug was bad and couldn’t get it to spark . Its a simple little 4” box that holds 2 plug upside down and you turn the dial to represent rpm . Of course this in normal atmosphere, not compression, but if it doesnt fire in atmosphere well it aint gonna fire in compression. Excellent little tool . So I checked the plugs I removed and all were good , so I saved 7 and installed the 8th inthe the car . Runs great .

Tudie 36 · 01-11-2022, 10:04 AM

Thanks, digging back into it this weekend. Greg Big G Kirkland. I answer to all

Tudie 36 · 01-11-2022, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatford8

If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark

Thanks Mark

SoCalCoupe · 01-12-2022, 01:07 AM

Tudie, Your story has a lot of similarities to mine, turning a newly acquired flathead into a real driver. May not be like your case but mine had a wicked accelerator stumble when I bought it, nearly un-driveable. Rebuilt the carb and it helped some. Then I focused on the accelerator linkage. Watching it carefully, I observed that the accelerator "z-bar" had to move about a half inch, winding up the slack in the accelerator rod connecting it to the carburetor before the throttle on the carb would move. Probably worn out 80-year old springs in the accelerator rod. I made a new one with these links from Speedway and a rod from Home Depot.

Made a HUGE difference. 90% of the hesitation disappeared. I still see some windup in the accelerator pump linkage from the carb throttle to accelerator pump before it starts to move. I've replaced the accelerator pump link with a new one but it didn't help much. I'm convinced though that if I can find a solution to a crappy accelerator pump linkage the remaining 10% of the problem will go away.

Tudie 36 · 01-12-2022, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCalCoupe

Tudie, Your story has a lot of similarities to mine, turning a newly acquired flathead into a real driver. May not be like your case but mine had a wicked accelerator stumble when I bought it, nearly un-driveable. Rebuilt the carb and it helped some. Then I focused on the accelerator linkage. Watching it carefully, I observed that the accelerator "z-bar" had to move about a half inch, winding up the slack in the accelerator rod connecting it to the carburetor before the throttle on the carb would move. Probably worn out 80-year old springs in the accelerator rod. I made a new one with these links from Speedway and a rod from Home Depot.

Made a HUGE difference. 90% of the hesitation disappeared. I still see some windup in the accelerator pump linkage from the carb throttle to accelerator pump before it starts to move. I've replaced the accelerator pump link with a new one but it didn't help much. I'm convinced though that if I can find a solution to a crappy accelerator pump linkage the remaining 10% of the problem will go away.

Hum? Noted. Thanks

01-08-2022, 06:32 PM	#1
Tudie 36 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: Rockford, Tennessee Posts: 108	Advice, comments, suggestions? Looking for suggestions. My newly acquired 1936 Tudor is slowly getting to the point that I’m not too worried about wearing comfortable walking shoes or the tow truck on speed dial. Starts pretty easy. I’ve changed oil and drained and refilled radiator, cleaned plugs, rebuilt carb(97), rebuilt generator and cut out. Dual 6volt optimas. Idles great but wants to stumble a little when under load. Someone installed a satellite coil. Today I changed condenser. I can tell a little difference but still stumbles at point of changing gear. Wife says I’m pushing too hard. I don’t think so. Today while changing condenser the new connection was a little tight and wanted to turn with the acorn nut as I was trying to hold the two connections still while I tightened I noticed the post was moving also. No time today but tomorrow going to add a tiny flat washer and try to tighten the post without removing the top of the distributor cover. Am I going the right direction? Thanks for any comments Last edited by Tudie 36; 01-08-2022 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Spellcheck

01-08-2022, 08:09 PM	#2
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,635	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? Tudie, (That's your moniker till you post your name!) Sounds like you have a stud into the aluminum distributor housing with the condenser under the stud nut? The stud may have stripped out the aluminum? I think you'd be wise to remove the assembly and figure out why it turns. The adapter plate you have is not original, and is an aftermarket product used only to accommodate the remote coil you have. Most old timers will turn up their nose at the sight of such a device, myself included. Should your ignition be the culprit causing your stutter, get hold of Skip Haney in Florida. Skip can do a bang up job on all ignition issues you can throw at him. Remember also, it may be a fuel issue. Your pump may be fighting to keep up with demand at higher RPMs, And/or, your float level may be set too low. __________________ Alan

01-08-2022, 08:19 PM	#3
Tudie 36 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: Rockford, Tennessee Posts: 108	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? I don’t like the un natural look of the distributor either but that’s what it was as purchased. I’ll check ugly loose stud first then on to the carb if that doesn’t do it. Thanks, Greg Kirkland Rockford, Tennessee

01-09-2022, 04:53 AM	#4
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? I'm also not a big fan of using those adaptor plates on top of helmet distributors, and a remote mounted coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil that mounts on top of distributor and send it to Skip Haney to have it rewound. You'll also need to find a good original, or a modern condenser that mounts on back of coil. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

01-09-2022, 05:33 AM	#5
FortyNiner Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: u-rah-rah-Wisconsin Posts: 1,136	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? Was the carb rebuild done with a Daytona kit? Some of the lesser versions have under performing valves. Ask me how I know. __________________ 19 and 49 F1 - jes' like Henry II built 1946 Deluxe - as Henry built it

01-09-2022, 10:15 AM	#8
joe 1950 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Green Bay Wi Posts: 400	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? I never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in, there not that costly i’ve always had good luck with champions H -10. but each to his own

01-09-2022, 10:46 AM	#9
Tudie 36 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: Rockford, Tennessee Posts: 108	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? [QUOTE=joe 1950never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in, there not that costly i’ve always had good luck with champions H -10. but each to his own[/QUOTE] Agreed, if I had some laying around when I decided to inspect a couple I would have. Why would the last person change to a remote coil I wonder? As soon as new garage is finished and not working in an open carport, my plan is to take the couple of non original parts and change to as original as possible including some paint on heads etc. and a change of intake, this one has had a poor repair and wonder if a little air loss may also be an issue. Last edited by Tudie 36; 01-09-2022 at 10:54 AM.

01-09-2022, 12:43 PM	#12
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,857	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? There are a number of fractions on the barn. Keep it stock at all costs, or I just like to drive my car, not a museum piece. and anything goes, as long as it doesn't cost much. Me! In this case Skip is the best bet. Gramps PS WE all get along somewhat, because we love old Fords.

01-09-2022, 07:17 PM	#14
Ggmac Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Lake worth Florida Posts: 1,088	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? On the point of spark plugs . I use to clean , then just replace as I needed . I recently purchased a $25 tool - gadget, a 110 volt spark plug tester . It saved the day recently, had 8 new champion 10s installed and had a miss that wasn’t there before. This litspark plug tester proved the plug was bad and couldn’t get it to spark . Its a simple little 4” box that holds 2 plug upside down and you turn the dial to represent rpm . Of course this in normal atmosphere, not compression, but if it doesnt fire in atmosphere well it aint gonna fire in compression. Excellent little tool . So I checked the plugs I removed and all were good , so I saved 7 and installed the 8th inthe the car . Runs great .

01-11-2022, 10:04 AM	#15
Tudie 36 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: Rockford, Tennessee Posts: 108	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? Thanks, digging back into it this weekend. Greg Big G Kirkland. I answer to all

01-12-2022, 01:07 AM	#17
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 423	Re: Advice, comments, suggestions? Tudie, Your story has a lot of similarities to mine, turning a newly acquired flathead into a real driver. May not be like your case but mine had a wicked accelerator stumble when I bought it, nearly un-driveable. Rebuilt the carb and it helped some. Then I focused on the accelerator linkage. Watching it carefully, I observed that the accelerator "z-bar" had to move about a half inch, winding up the slack in the accelerator rod connecting it to the carburetor before the throttle on the carb would move. Probably worn out 80-year old springs in the accelerator rod. I made a new one with these links from Speedway and a rod from Home Depot. Made a HUGE difference. 90% of the hesitation disappeared. I still see some windup in the accelerator pump linkage from the carb throttle to accelerator pump before it starts to move. I've replaced the accelerator pump link with a new one but it didn't help much. I'm convinced though that if I can find a solution to a crappy accelerator pump linkage the remaining 10% of the problem will go away.