Door Lock Removal

[30six]

Is there a special tool to remove the screw that holds door lock cylinder on 1936 in place?

I can see a hex head with hole in center through opening in pilar, but it looks too tight of space to get into opening and onto head.

I've seen older post about door lock removal, but cannot locate them.

Thanks!

[JM 35 Sedan]

The door locks in my 35's are held in place by slotted head set screws. I have used allen head set screw in place of the slotted head in some cases. Not sure how you could have a hex head screw in yours.

[Bruce Lancaster]

It should be a #10 set screw, don't remember thread count; pretty sure in '36 it originally had a slotted end for a screwdriver, some time after 1936 Ford switched to an allen head there.

[30six]

Here is photo of what is in opening. No slotted or set screw.
I took off door latch which was a challenge with lock cylinder in place.
I can see the shaft going to side of lock cylinder.

Does the set screw directly into side of lock cylinder?
Does the cylinder fit into a sleeve or directly into opening in door?
Any other way to remove lock?? Would a locksmith be able to key it while in door?

Thanks!

[Bruce Lancaster]

The set screw goes through a little sheetmetal cage partially surrounding the lock cylinder and works as a set screw, as I remember?
Not sure what I am seeing there, but could that just be a corroded allen screw? The Allen wrench size is quite small, as it is let into the threaded shaft of the set screw with no head at all on original Ford ones.
If yours is allen headed rather than slotted, it is from a later early Ford, 1940's I think.

[4dFord/SC]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

The set screw goes through a little sheetmetal cage partially surrounding the lock cylinder and works as a set screw, as I remember?
Not sure what I am seeing there, but could that just be a corroded allen screw? The Allen wrench size is quite small, as it is let into the threaded shaft of the set screw with no head at all on original Ford ones.
If yours is allen headed rather than slotted, it is from a later early Ford, 1940's I think.

I recently had to replace the door lock in my '40, and it had an Allen screw, like Bruce describes. It was so corroded we ended up drilling it out and replacing it with a slot head screw. FYI, those Allen screws were made from some tough stuff

[Randy in ca]

Have a '35 door in the garage and your post got me curious, so I took a look and snapped a couple of pictures. It looks to me like you don't have a set screw in place - the screw threads into a protrusion and it looks to me like that's all that's there in your picture. Stick something in the hole and see what's there - the set screw on mine is about 3/4" long, so unless your's has been broken off or the hole is full of gunk something should go in that far. Even if there's no set screw there the cylinder can be tough to get out - it does slide into a sleeve and the set screw does go against the side of the lock cylinder - it doesn't take much rust or dirt to really glue it in there. Use a good lubricant and wiggle it around, pry gently, etc.
I hope there's no screw remnants still in there. Good luck.

[Terry,OH]

from the factory it should be a slotted head 10-32 pointed set screw which is about 1" long 89658-S7. Ford used the same set screw from 32 past 1940. all your going to see in the hole is the slot since the set screw is not long enought to be proud of the threaded hole. If all else fails to get it out there is only one way I am aware of and that is to heat the threaded section red hot inside the door. You want to be careful not to burn or blister the paint off the door skin. The slotted head of the set screw is easially broken off so make sure NOT to use a lot of force on it. best of luck

[30six]

Randy: Thanks for photos. Your photo shows same part as in my door, but mine does not have a screw in opening. I'll try and see if part is broken off in hole.
When I had door latch off it looked like someone glued the lock cylinder in sleeve. It had some yellow dried crud around cylinder and sleeve. I know this should be easy, but everytime I try something who ever had car long before me fixed as he thought and not how it shpuld have been....

[JM 35 Sedan]

I wound up doing the same thing that Randy in CA did. I went out in the garage last night and took some pictures of two different '35 doors. One had a slotted head set screw and the other had an allen head set screw. The two screws were slightly different in length (0.87" vs 0.81"). Both have 10-32 threads and with what I call a "cup point" at the end that goes against the lock cylinder.

[Bruce Lancaster]

"It had some yellow dried crud around cylinder and sleeve..."
That could easily be 3M superduper grade rubber adhesive...I believe you can get a solvent made just for that.

[Bruce Lancaster]

PS...the counter guy at the auto supply will know that particular adhesive as "gorilla snot"!

[rotorwrench]

Where's the carbon tetra chloride when you need it.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

I'm going to have to replace all or part of the sleeves that hold the set screw and the lock cylinder in my 40 conv.Are the sleeves welded in?

[JM 35 Sedan]

Milt, I may be able to look at some of my '35 doors that are completely stripped down and determine how those sleeves are held in place. Stay tuned for more info to come later...............

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Milt, I may be able to look at some of my '35 doors that are completely stripped down and determine how those sleeves are held in place. Stay tuned for more info to come later...............

Thanks JM

[30six]

John:
Thanks and looking forward to how sleeves are held in door. Any replacment sleeves out there if mine is destroyed in removal process???

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Thanks John,I'm also looking forward to how sleeves are held into the door.

[JM 35 Sedan]

OK as promised, here are some pictures and information on the lock cylinder mounting area inside a '35 tudor sedan door. I have no idea if this would be the same as or similar to a forty Ford door. The lock cylinder mount is a formed sheet metal tube that appears to be soldered/brazed to a separate sheet metal plate that is spot welded to the inner surface of the outer door skin. This separate sheet metal plate is about 6-7" long and about 2-3" wide. It provides extra reinforcing strength for mounting the door handle and the cylinder lock. The D shaped nuts for the door handle screws are also soldered/brazed to this plate. The lock cylinder mounting tube also has a small threaded tube attached to it's side for the set screw that holds the lock cylinder in place. Hopefully all of this makes some sense and is a little bit clearer than mud .

[Bruce Lancaster]

Two things on the cylinder holder tin: Bob Drake may well be reproducing it as part of their '40 body project, I know a lot of door stuff is complete on that.
And it was once available as a replacement part, I think only as a repair helper from the aftermarket. Same sort of source as the places that supply clips and widgets to body shops. I actually have a new one of those...not sure if I could find the thing or not if need arises. Maybe.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by 30six

John:
Thanks and looking forward to how sleeves are held in door. Any replacment sleeves out there if mine is destroyed in removal process???

I have no idea if those lock cylinder mounting tubes/sleeves are available from any of the known old Ford parts suppliers. Maybe someone else will know and respond. From the looks of my '35 door, I think a tube/sleeve could be fabricated and soldered/brazed back into place. JMO

[Bruce Lancaster]

As I said, I own a sleeve. If yours fails to survive the surgery, and IF I can locate the piece, it is yours. I am the world's least organized hoarder of Fordstuff, so second "if" is a biggy.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

OK as promised, here are some pictures and information on the lock cylinder mounting area inside a '35 tudor sedan door. I have no idea if this would be the same as or similar to a forty Ford door. The lock cylinder mount is a formed sheet metal tube that appears to be soldered/brazed to a separate sheet metal plate that is spot welded to the inner surface of the outer door skin. This separate sheet metal plate is about 6-7" long and about 2-3" wide. It provides extra reinforcing strength for mounting the door handle and the cylinder lock. The D shaped nuts for the door handle screws are also soldered/brazed to this plate. The lock cylinder mounting tube also has a small threaded tube attached to it's side for the set screw that holds the lock cylinder in place. Hopefully all of this makes some sense and is a little bit clearer than mud .

Thanks John for your effort.I'm going to have to study your pictures,and compare them to my 40 conv.I'm going to have to strip the door down to see if I can replace the sleeves.Bob Drake offers an adapter for the left door cylinder,and may have them for the coupe he's building.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

As I said, I own a sleeve. If yours fails to survive the surgery, and IF I can locate the piece, it is yours. I am the world's least organized hoarder of Fordstuff, so second "if" is a biggy.

Bruce is your message for me?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Suddenly, I realize that I am talking with at least two people, one with a '35 and one with a '40, in fear for their sleeves. Thought it was one...
So, I own one sleeve and am not sure where it is here in the world's largest indoor library/junkyard...
You guys try to get the locks out, and post developments. I hope no more than one of you needs a sleeve...will look for mine when need becomes certain.
If mine cannot be found, I do know that Drake has finished major door stampings and lots of door hardware for his repro body project; maybe he can supply sleeves.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Suddenly, I realize that I am talking with at least two people, one with a '35 and one with a '40, in fear for their sleeves. Thought it was one...
So, I own one sleeve and am not sure where it is here in the world's largest indoor library/junkyard...
You guys try to get the locks out, and post developments. I hope no more than one of you needs a sleeve...will look for mine when need becomes certain.
If mine cannot be found, I do know that Drake has finished major door stampings and lots of door hardware for his repro body project; maybe he can supply sleeves.

Bruce I need a sleeve,mine is ruined.I'll contact Bob Drake in the morning.I'll let you know.Thanks

[Bruce Lancaster]

OK, if no good with BD I will start hunting.

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

OK, if no good with BD I will start hunting.

Bruce I called Drake,and they don't sell the sleeves separately.The sleeve conversion is available only for the driver's door and only in the complete kit.FWIW

[rotorwrench]

If you can't find one, one could possibly be repaired using the closest size chrome moly aircraft type steel tubing cut to proper length and machined out to fit the lock cylinder & set screw. Aircraft tubing is available in six different wall thicknesses in sizes from 7/16" thru 2" and each successive size smaller will fit inside the next larger size with the correct wall thickness in consideration. Wall thicknesses for 3/4" 4130N tube for example are .035", .049", .058", .065", .095", .125", and .156"

This would at least give you an option.

Kerby

[Bruce Lancaster]

Will try to find my replacement sleeve.
Another thought for a source of a make-do: Cheap indoor door knob kit. Part of this is a flange with D-shaped tube welded or crimped to it...take that, open and/or cut away the joint in the D tube, insert a piece of rod and pound that tube round enough to grip the cylinder. Flange allows attachment to inner door, tube id thick enough to drill&tap for # 10 screw...

[rgmcspadden]

I looked in the opening to reach the set screw to remove the existing door lock.
It has been destroyed so bad I can’t get a screw driver or hex head tool to move it. Any been successful at drilling the set screw out. I have a new lock to install.
Thanks.
Dick 40 Ford coup

[TJ]

Originally Posted by rgmcspadden

I looked in the opening to reach the set screw to remove the existing door lock.
It has been destroyed so bad I can’t get a screw driver or hex head tool to move it. Any been successful at drilling the set screw out. I have a new lock to install.
Thanks.
Dick 40 Ford coup

Good luck on trying to drill it out. I tried every type of drill available to drill one out and finally gave up.

[deuce lover]

I did as TJ and had no success except breaking drill bits. Maybe a Dremel with the right dental bit might work.

[Bill Wyckoff]

I know this was all posted some time ago but I'm needing help. I don't have much left of a set screw only partial half. I need to remove the lock so do I grind this part of the screw flat and then attempt to drill out the screw? This is on a 37 pickup.
Thanks for your help.
Bill

[marko39]

I had a similar experience with my 39, half of set screw broke off. I did not try to grind it flat but that would make it easier to center a drill. I did manage to drill the bugger out but I wasn't proud of it. Tapped the hole for the next size screw and was able to reassemble.

[Bill Wyckoff]

Thanks Mario. I just borrowed a die grinder to flatten it out. Wish me luck on the drilling

Bill

[marko39]

Start with a small drill bit after center punching. It will be hard to drill out without some damage to the threads in the tube. Maybe you will get lucky and not have to curse too much.

[Bill Wyckoff]

Thanks Marko, Success, the lock cylinder is out and still works.
Bill

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Bill Wyckoff

Thanks Marko, Success, the lock cylinder is out and still works.
Bill

You are the luckiest man alive. Better play the lotto ASAP.