Switching to juice brake question

[RCS41PU]

I'm confused about post #43 and #44. Did the question of "rear" backing plates refer to brakes on the rear axle, or, refer to the backing plate on the front axle? I've heard several people refer to all backing plates as "rear backing plates" because they are "behind" the shoes and drums. I sold auto parts for many years, and everyone doesn't call parts by the parts book name a lot of the time.
Thanks,
Richard

[Jack E/NJ]

That's why I always ask if they'll fit both my behind AND my rearend so there's no confusion. Jack E/NJ

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by RCS41PU

I'm confused about post #43 and #44. Did the question of "rear" backing plates refer to brakes on the rear axle, or, refer to the backing plate on the front axle? I've heard several people refer to all backing plates as "rear backing plates" because they are "behind" the shoes and drums. I sold auto parts for many years, and everyone doesn't call parts by the parts book name a lot of the time.
Thanks,
Richard

Richard.....We were talking about backing plates fitting a REAR axle...a banjo rear end. DD

[RCS41PU]

Thanks Jack and Coop
Richard

[AnthonyG]

DD, looking at a set on EB, In pics looked almost like the hubs were integral to the drum. What's the correct way to separate without damaging the hub flange? R the studs pressed thru the drums & thru the Hubs?

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by AnthonyG

DD, looking at a set on EB, In pics looked almost like the hubs were integral to the drum. What's the correct way to separate without damaging the hub flange? R the studs pressed thru the drums & thru the Hubs?

Anthony....I have no way of knowing what you're referring to without a pic. '40 and '41s kind of look like you describe. Those studs are NOT a press fit.....they're swaged once the drum is placed on the hub. DD

[AnthonyG]

I bought used front & rear hubs for the project. they look pretty good. Question, all studs removed except 3. Someone mentioned they are swedged in. The 3 left in appear to be in good shape should I leave or replace as I'm replacing the other 17? Can I just press the three out? Can I press the new ones in? Any special prep to holes besides cleaning on installing new? I.e., reaming

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

I bought used front & rear hubs for the project. they look pretty good. Question, all studs removed except 3. Someone mentioned they are swedged in. The 3 left in appear to be in good shape should I leave or replace as I'm replacing the other 17? Can I just press the three out? Can I press the new ones in? Any special prep to holes besides cleaning on installing new? I.e., reaming

You CAN NOT just press the swaged studs out. The swaged part must be cut away with a hole saw. If you press them or hammer them out (they WILL come out with enough force) without cutting the swage away, you will bend (and RUIN) the hub. So, how do you know that the Gonzo that removed the others didn't already do it wrong and bend the hub flange?

Second problem....there are no studs available that are the proper diameter for the Ford holes. You've gotta get a bigger diameter stud, and ream the holes to the proper diameter. RICH B may know which studs to get. Nothing is just simple!! DD

[AnthonyG]

Thx, I indicated for concentricity and checked flange for being flat / or bent in same set up. All looked good. It appears C&G has the required studs which need the hole reamed to .600"

Thx for the Info

[rich b]

Check out post 12 in this thread for some stud info to go with used stock drums/stud replacement or new thicker repop drums.

You can get the Dorman studs pretty reasonable with a little research.

You have to ream the holes in either case along and have to either "clip" the stud or sand off the locating ridge on the hub.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237084

[mrtexas]

Haven't seen this discussed. With disc on the front you can't use 35 wire wheels you must use 40 style wheels which is what I did on my 36. I try not to show my 36 to authenticity snobs who notice it doesn't have 36 wheels on it anymore. The 40 wheels with moony hubcaps on my 36 look great to me and I am the only one after all who is required to be satisfied.

I disagree with the "mismatched" parts line of reasoning.

On two cars I have discs on the front and MT lincoln drums on the rear. I use 39 pedals on the 36 and a corvette MC. Of course I have a metering valve, proportioning/brake light switch valve, and 2psi residual pressure valves for the discs and 10psi for the drum. I don't consider this system as a bunch of "mismatched" parts and the brakes stop like glue.

If you want to stick with the 35 wires then by all means go with 4 wheel MT lincoln brakes. IMHO 40 backing plates are too much trouble to get working correctly now that MT makes the lincoln brakes.

[AnthonyG]

Thinking out loud and always believe the only wrong question is the one u don't ask. When using the '40-'48 Ford Hubs (reamed to .600 to use new C&G studs) front and rear with the Ford Lockheed backing plates; 1- Can I use the new style 1 3/4" drums used with the Bendix style backing plates? 2- In this application do the drums slip fit (slide on and off) the studs as they're no longer in the configuration swaged together?

[rich b]

Yes and yes; tho you may have to "trim" the lip of the drum if it rubs on the backing plate.
Easy job on a brake or big regular lathe.

[AnthonyG]

Thx Rich!

[AnthonyG]

In looking at availability for new drums for the 1 3/4" wide shoes it seem they don't specify 1 3/4" or 2" width? Will same drum work with either?

[rich b]

Yes, the new MT drums work with either width shoe.

[JSeery]

I run 2 inch drums with 1 3/4 shoes.

[AnthonyG]

Thx J

[AnthonyG]

Getting ready to remove waged studs. I believe DD indicated a hole saw was best method to get rid of Swaged area. Thinking use the ID to cut out side portion of the stud with the swaged area? Obviously hole saws are bought by the OD hole size any one know which size to get for the 1/2" ID which is the size of the stud OD?. So I don't have to open several packages as pretty sure the store won't find amusing, LOL.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Getting ready to remove waged studs. I believe DD indicated a hole saw was best method to get rid of Swaged area. Thinking use the ID to cut out side portion of the stud with the swaged area? Obviously hole saws are bought by the OD hole size any one know which size to get for the 1/2" ID which is the size of the stud OD?. So I don't have to open several packages as pretty sure the store won't find amusing, LOL.

I THINK I remember it being a 5/8". DD


This below is a quote from Andy last July:


"He is trying to separate the hubs from the drums. Different problem. The studs are actually rivets and must be machined to remove. I have drilled and I have ground. By far the easiest is to use a 5/8" deep hole saw. Yes it will cut the soft metal. You just it put over the stud and drill away. It may start to cut some of the stud threads but so what. It is really kind of automatic as the cone shaped rimnent of the stud will start turning and will slow down the drilling.
What ever you do, DO NOT TRY TO BEAT THEM OUT. You will bend the flange and it will need to be faced."