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Old 06-27-2022, 07:55 PM   #1
Robbie Horn
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Default Cracked Model A Block

Has anyone repaired one this bad? It’s cracked down 2 cylinders & all the way down the center head stud boss. I’m in Axtell Texas if anyone close has one to sell.
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Old 06-27-2022, 08:59 PM   #2
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

With that crack extending down the cylinders, I don't think stitching is an option. I'm afraid you should be looking for a new block to rebuild.
I don't know how high your pennies are stacked but I think a very viable option would be one of the new Burtz blocks. They cost about the same as reboring an old one and doing the Babbit bearings and you will have an all new and far superior engine. You can use all of the attachments from your current engine like head, cam shaft, distributor, water pump etc - The lot.
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Old 06-27-2022, 09:11 PM   #3
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

my opinion. try to find another block rather than attempt to repair.
you would probably have to stich it then sleeve it, you may as well start with a better block that is within rebuild specs.

or a new block.

the problem with a "good runner". the seller says its a "good runner" or "all gone through" or "ran good when parked" and you end up doing a complete rebuild anyway. buyer beware.
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Old 06-27-2022, 11:23 PM   #4
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

I agree, time for a "new" block.

Chris W.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:04 AM   #5
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

go to local CL

many good complete motors for around 250.
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Old 06-28-2022, 10:27 AM   #6
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

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I can't tell for sure but is looks like the two cylinders already have sleeves.
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Old 06-28-2022, 05:02 PM   #7
AL in NY
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

I believe that is the problem Terry Burtz has mentioned which is caused by torquing the #1 head nut at too high a starting torque when torquing the head. Terry suggests using a starting around 10 or 15 lbs and not torquing the head in a circular pattern but start torquing at the rear of the head and work your way forward, increasing torque by 10 or 15 lbs each pass.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Quote:
Originally Posted by AL in NY View Post
I believe that is the problem Terry Burtz has mentioned which is caused by torquing the #1 head nut at too high a starting torque when torquing the head. Terry suggests using a starting around 10 or 15 lbs and not torquing the head in a circular pattern but start torquing at the rear of the head and work your way forward, increasing torque by 10 or 15 lbs each pass.
Probably so but it is all too late for that block. Something for the owner to remember when he assembles a new engine.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:54 PM   #9
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Pete Aardema and Kevin Braun who built the world's fastest Model A engine put a clamp around the top of the engine to keep it together and prevent this kind of crack. They say the Model A engine is weak in this respect. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T29HFhrbT_s

Where he talks about the block clamp is at 7:50 in the video.
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Old 06-29-2022, 12:30 AM   #10
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Quote:
Originally Posted by nkaminar View Post
Pete Aardema and Kevin Braun who built the world's fastest Model A engine put a clamp around the top of the engine to keep it together and prevent this kind of crack. They say the Model A engine is weak in this respect. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T29HFhrbT_s

Where he talks about the block clamp is at 7:50 in the video.
The way that clamp tightens is a brilliant way of doing it, using right-hand threads in both sides but different thread pitches
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Old 06-29-2022, 06:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Quote:
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The way that clamp tightens is a brilliant way of doing it, using right-hand threads in both sides but different thread pitches
Back in the 1970s, I rode an Austrian made motor scooter. A poor student then, I couldn't afford anything recent - mine was from the late 1950s - early 60s. The flywheel was removed with a special puller that used threads of different pitches that we knew as a differential pitch puller.
The principle is not new.
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:59 AM   #12
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

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Originally Posted by Synchro909 View Post
The flywheel was removed with a special puller that used threads of different pitches that we knew as a differential pitch puller.
Sounds like an interesting type of tool, can you provide some more information on it?
Tnx, Ken
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Old 06-30-2022, 11:13 AM   #13
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Guy’s, these engines have lasted almost 100 years. They deserve a rest.

Try comparing the Model A and it’s engine to any low cost mass produced car today.

What will people be saying about them in 100 years?

Model A’s and Model T’s, great cars.

Enjoy.
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Old 06-30-2022, 11:23 AM   #14
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Use a timesert in the center head stud bore, don’t worry about the rest, cracks connecting the water jacket are harmless.
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:47 PM   #15
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Quote:
Originally Posted by katy View Post
Sounds like an interesting type of tool, can you provide some more information on it?
Tnx, Ken
As I remember it (my memory is being tested), the flywheel was pulled by screwing in a "bolt" that went into the end of the crankshaft a few turns. There was a hollow bolt that went over the first one. It screwed into the flywheel, then the two were locked together. The bolt into the flywheel was a coarser thread than the one in the crank. By turning them together, the flywheel was forced away from the and of the crankshaft till it snapped free. Easy and no damage, just like when you have the right tool for any job. The mechanical advantage this gave was dependant on how close the two thread pitches were. The closer, the greater the "pull".
The scooter was a "PUCH" brand. I doubt you guys had them. They had a 2 stroke engine of 150 cc with oil mixed in the fuel as you filled. I could get a reliable 100 miles per imperial gallon. Top speed was about 60 mph and it took me everywhere. Those were the days!
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Old 06-30-2022, 04:18 PM   #16
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Those were the days. Had a 125cc BSA bantam. Tank cap measured oil to mix.

John
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Old 06-30-2022, 04:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by john in illinois View Post
Those were the days. Had a 125cc BSA bantam. Tank cap measured oil to mix.

John
My wife had one of those though her sister rode it more. They were a more conventional motor cycle but they were not for me.
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Old 07-01-2022, 07:05 PM   #18
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

https://www.brattons.com/BURTZ-BLOCK...ductinfo/7095/
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Old 07-01-2022, 07:15 PM   #19
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

Are the sleeves cracked too? If not,you could verify oil water contamination with a block pressurizing test.
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Old 07-02-2022, 10:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: Cracked Model A Block

I'm going to fix it. Just wanted to see if anyone on here has repaired one like this. Also was hoping someone in my area might have a engine for sale. These blocks are made out of some good stuff not like all this new Chinese metal with all the impurities. Only the good welders on here will know what I'm talking about. I'll post pics when I do it. Right now I'm working on my chassis to get the body on it.
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