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11-01-2014, 09:59 AM | #1 |
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Cracked block repair failure
I bought a 31 Coupe abandoned project expressly for the rebuilt (in 1986) engine sitting on the stand with zero miles which I installed in my roadster.
I managed to put 511 miles on it when, on a recent tour, an old JB Weld crack repair failed revealing a 4" long crack in the outside water jacket. I took it to a local industrial machine shop where they welded the crack but the weld wound up with tiny hairline cracks in it. I spread some J B Weld over the length of the weld but don't have a lot of faith in this. Should I also use some sort of engine block sealer. Or am I looking for another block? Any suggections? |
11-01-2014, 10:37 AM | #2 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Since you know, or think you know, that you have good internals...I'd try the liquid glass treatment. If it doesnt work you arent any worse off than you are right now.Good Luck
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11-01-2014, 10:42 AM | #3 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
If you would have only asked about welding a block cold like that!
We could have told you about what you have now! Herm. |
11-01-2014, 11:12 AM | #4 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
I agree with Rex in post #2 . At this point you've got nothing to lose. I've used water glass with good success, the used car dealers have secretly used it for years. The important thing with any type block sealer is to first flush the cooling system with a good cleaner and follow label instructions to the letter. I have also used ceramic block sealer . Snyders lists a ceramic sealer on page A-215 part # M-6006 price $11.65 . I would first use their Thoro-flush part #8006 . I haven't used Snyders ceramic sealer but used Moroso ceramic sealer in one of my model A engines over 20 years ago and its still working .
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11-01-2014, 11:25 AM | #5 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Skeezixx, I'm very sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope that anyone else who may be reading about your misadventures will consider metalstitching for repair of a cracked iron casting. I hope one of the above repairs will get you through. Good Luck!
Last edited by Chris in CT; 11-01-2014 at 11:25 AM. Reason: spelling |
11-01-2014, 12:34 PM | #6 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
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To weld the block it would have to be very hot from a large oven and cooled slowly. I saw one done at Steven's Point, WI. and you couldn't even tell it had been welded. |
11-01-2014, 12:46 PM | #7 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Like Purdy says...nothing to lose.
I have used the Irontite products from Snyder's and they work well. At this point, I would thoroughly clean the cracked area of paint and oil for the following two step seal... 1) Use the Irontite cleaner and sealant...follow the directions. The leak should seep coolant at first and then as the Irontite works its magic, it will stop seeping. You will need to run the engine to heat activate the sealant. 2) Re-clean the cracked area beyond the repair area and apply a coating of slow set JB Weld over and beyond the repair area. Let it set up overnight and then file and sand the repaired area to blend the repair edges to the cast iron. Apply paint and the repair should blend in and not be noticeable. Slow set holds much better than JB-Kwik. I agree with the comments about Metal Stitching...but to make the best of where you are the fore-mentioned is a solution. Good Luck! Good Day! |
11-01-2014, 12:47 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
If it 'can't be done on a cast A/B block, does that also apply to a cast iron head . I few months ago, I took a cast 5:1 Snyder head over to a 'head repair shop'. They welded up TWO cracks in water jacket on head face, recut head and it looked fine. After reading Herms/your remarks, not so sure it will remain fine now ? |
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11-01-2014, 01:08 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
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11-01-2014, 03:17 PM | #10 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
I don't know what welding techniques you are all using. But 50 years ago when I was working on the bench repairing large electric motors, most of which had cast iron endplates, we used gas torches and bronze welding rods to repair cracks. I think borax was used as a flux.
The theory was that the lower heat reduced the risk of further cracking. Also it took a lot less skill than using real welding. |
11-01-2014, 04:34 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
Brass is inherently more ductle than cast iron. Not to say that it is any less strong. A good cast iron has yield strength in the 32KSI range, and a good brazing rod is similar, if not a little stronger (you can braze a much more homogenous weld than the virgin cast structure it might be done upon.) As to welding a head cold, I have attempted that with totally unsuccessful results. Even using nuclear qualified Eutectic brand cast iron weld rod at $125 a pound. Had I given it more thought, and a lot of MAPP gas, I might have done better with braze. That head was replaced with a standard head in good condition bought at Amherst, NH Antique Auto Flea Market for $10 (OK $25 including $5 parking and $10 gas to get there and back.) Sometimes you just have to go the easy route... Joe K
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11-01-2014, 07:39 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
Just to add... When ever I brazed broken cast pieces back together I would place the brazed part in a box of sand and cover it well so that it didn't cool too quickly, this is important for a sucessful repair. Last edited by Purdy Swoft; 11-01-2014 at 07:48 PM. Reason: added i9nfo. |
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11-01-2014, 07:49 PM | #13 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Here in Indiana they use material that bowling balls are made of, to seal the crackes. It is used on High Performance engines and seal they crakes.
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11-01-2014, 07:51 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
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11-01-2014, 09:13 PM | #15 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
welding cast iron is a fool's errand,
unless you are one of the very few specialized shops that can heat the entire block up to a very high temp and cool verrry slowly
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11-01-2014, 10:04 PM | #16 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Where I work, they weld cast iron everyday. I ask the one welder what they use and he said they use nickel mig wire and crank the amps way up (high heat). They also don't pre-heat.
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11-01-2014, 10:33 PM | #17 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
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11-01-2014, 10:37 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
Quote:
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11-01-2014, 10:58 PM | #19 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
The Kwikset JB weld is good, its less likely to sag but does not have the "stick" and is not as hard as the regular JB weld. They both have their place.
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11-02-2014, 09:11 AM | #20 |
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Re: Cracked block repair failure
I have a friend who welded a Catepillar head by heating it to 1400 deg. F in an oven for a while. Then he welded it with 6010 wire. It Held! 6010 wire has a very violent arc and will clean a lot of carbon out of the weld. Any welding of a head/manifold has to contend with massive carbon build up from running at a high temp in a carbon rich atmosphere. This carbon prevents the weld from getting a good grip on the parent metal and they almost invariably fail.
Terry |
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