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02-21-2011, 08:45 AM | #1 |
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Piston Ring End Gap
I am re-ringing my '49 8BA. The pistons are .040" oversize. What should the ring end gap be and do the compression rings and oil rings all have the same gap?
Also, I plan on using a flex hone to deglaze the cylinders. Any tips or a better idea as I have not done this before. Thanks |
02-21-2011, 09:04 AM | #2 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Bruce, you should have about .004 per inch of cyl. clearance on a new bore job. That should be about .014 on your engine. BUT, if this is just a rering job with quite a few miles on the engine, I'm sure you have more that that. If you have .020 or better on an old engine, don't worry about it. Walt
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02-21-2011, 10:13 AM | #3 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
A couple of questions for Walt. Do you compensate for cylinder taper if you don't clean up the bore and only brake the glaze? How much taper would you consider acceptable?
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02-21-2011, 11:47 AM | #4 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Their home page http://www.brushresearch.com/
Your flex hone is a very good tool choice for the application.I have done 100's of cylinders.Use a variable speed drill at about 1/2 speed and stroke at 45 deg angles without stopping and remove the hone while it is still turning.It is very forgiving and won't get away from you and remove excessive material.The tool has many indorsements from some prominent engine manufactures. Use some 10w30 oil for a flex hone oil and you will get a excellent result.The critical item to overcome is to get the bores clean.After honing wipe the bores clean with shop rags.You are now ready to wash the cylinders out with hot soap "tide" and water using a good sponge or a flex hone cylinder cleaning brush.Wash the bores at least twice and check for cleanliness using a clean white tissue pressed down the side of the bore.The tissue must come out clean with "no" smudges of dirt.If you have smudges clean some more.Now wipe the bores with wd40 to prevent flash rust and you will have no worries. Do not attempt to clean the bores with diesel fuel,brake clean,lacquer thinner or some other home brew they WON'T give you the desired results a clean honing residue free bore. Your question about taper with a flex hone you won't any correction. How much do you have? Check taper by putting a single compression ring in the bore at the top below ridge that has been removed and record the end gap.Now put the same ring in the bottom where the rings don't run and record the gap this will determine you change in end gap which gets larger "About 3 to 1" with taper.There are numerous other ways to check taper dial gauges mic's but this way doesn't require any outlay of money for expensive tools just feeler gauges. hope this info helps Ronnie |
02-21-2011, 01:10 PM | #5 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Walt and Ronnie,
Thanks for the replys. Ronnie, what do you mean "stroke at 45 deg angles"? |
02-21-2011, 02:07 PM | #6 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
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Ronnie |
02-21-2011, 04:26 PM | #7 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
41 ford 1--They usually say that rings will take up to .010 tapper. If you have a .040 bore you'll have to use .040 rings. Check it down to bottom of the hole, you''ll probably have about .015 or so. If you have .020 or so just under the ridge it will run fine for quite a while. If you have a big ridge it should be bored to the next oversize. Walt
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02-21-2011, 09:53 PM | #8 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Even if you don't have a BIG ridge, consider using a ridge reamer... The new ring will otherwise run into a bit of the bottom of it and knock the top edge off of the ring... Karl
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02-21-2011, 10:55 PM | #9 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
The ridge MUST always be removed My statement about below ridge was to insure you were getting a measurement "below" where ridge was not "where" ridge was as you would get an erroneous reading.Sorry for not being more clear for the statement.
Ronnie |
10-14-2011, 02:08 PM | #10 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Will the flex hone remove the ridge? Or is a separate ridge reamer required?
What grit Flex Hone is good for a 37 flathead...120, 180, 240? Also, will an "Ultra Finish" brush clean out the junk left by the Flex Hone? Or will adequate soap,towels, etc do the job just as well? Thanks for the help! |
10-14-2011, 02:46 PM | #11 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Ridge reaming is a separate operation a flex hone will not remove ridge.You will have success cleaning the bores by wiping all the honing residue out with a shop rag before you commence with the bore cleaning operation.The cleaning must be done with hot water and laundry soap sponge rag or an equivalent such as dish washing detergent.You can also use non grit hand cleaner as a pre wash before the final wash.Do not use brake clean,lacquer thinner,gasoline,solvent diesel fuel or any other home concoction.Read on the ring package they tell you warm water and detergent.Don't try to re invent the wheel just keep it simple it works.When final wash is done wipe the cly clean with wd40. Take a final smudge test with clean white tissue paper and wd40 press hard all the way down cylinder.The paper must come out with no smudge on paper if there is residue clean again with soap.A 180 grit flex hone will do well with engine oil as a lubricant while honing.Remember to clean around the bottoms of the cly's as well as residue accumulates here also. This will work for you.
R |
10-14-2011, 03:03 PM | #12 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Now that's the best way to do it, Ol' Ronnie has it. I picked up a new ridge reamer several years ago at a flea market and it's thee best one I've ever used, Unfortunately I don't get a chance to use it very often, because I bore the block. It's important to remove the ridge BEFORE you remove the pistons if you want to reuse them, other wise you could break a ring land. Hay Ron, keep up the good work.
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10-14-2011, 07:14 PM | #13 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Some other ideas for using the three-legged hones: If you want a coarser finish without buying new stones, use brake clean instead of oil for the lube. Spray liberally as you hone to flush the grit away. Also, most hones have a knob ro adjust tension on the stones, so you have a choice of using oil and light pressure to barely break the glaze or more tension and brake clean to take out minor scratches (you will take a little material off the walls, but, as they say, 'loose is fast').
It's amazing what you can get by with when you need to do an overhaul on the cheap! .025" taper, out of round rod journals, loose wrist pins, 'most everything on the wrong side of the wear limits, yet these old engines would run and run, and run good! Of course, if you tried to get away with too much, it would let you know quick! Ah, the good ol' days. |
10-14-2011, 08:12 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Quote:
My 2¢ R |
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10-14-2011, 10:35 PM | #15 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Not a problem, been there done that. I try to help, not many guys like Walt, JWL, myself and a few others I can't think of right now that have made as many mistakes as we have. I like to try different things, experiment with the norm. That's why we're getting better mileage with a very long cam. I am really surprised and can't offer an explanation. At present I;m building an ECono engine, built specifically to give better mileage, but still have enough power to drive in today's traffic. We'll see, I hope.
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10-15-2011, 05:20 AM | #16 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
You guys that have a ridge Reamer, can you show us some photos.
Thanks, Jorgen |
10-15-2011, 09:03 AM | #17 | |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Quote:
Hope this helps. Hastings,KD tools and Lisle are suppliers of a ridge reamer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6t4bBd4ppk 2¢more. Ronnie |
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10-16-2011, 12:46 PM | #18 |
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Re: Piston Ring End Gap
Ronnie, thanks for your replies.
Here an old one, I found! |
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