The Ford Barn

Don S · 09-20-2014, 11:55 AM

Just changed the gaskets and seals on my pan. The rear seal leaks in the middle just enough to be annoying. Has any one out there put a thin spacer under the seal to make it thicker,I have the right ones from Snyders.

H. L. Chauvin · 09-20-2014, 12:57 PM

Hi Don,

Not really, but I always set this seal with both block & seal coated with non-hardening "Permatex No,2" which I was told years ago by vintage mechanics that "Permatex No. 2" has always been successfully used since Model T days.

Remember gravity, in that the oil may be exiting from up higher & dripping to the bottom of this seal.

Other causes of leaks in this area, (only to list a few), have been reported & can be further researched under both Forum "Searches":

a. The too long rear seal was not trimmed flush; hence, not allowing oil pan gasket to compress.

b. Oil pan gasket compressed too much.

c. Rear oil pan return pipe not installed.

d. Rear main loose enough to allow oil to exit.

e. Oil pan gasket interference with rear main shims.

Usually the thin edge of the pan compresses the seal at least 1/8" deep approximately in the center of the seal.

While it is leaking, try removing all excess oil first. Immediately afterwards, many times in carefully searching this area with a flashing light in the dark, one can sometimes see & detect the source of this oil leak.

If you remove the pan again, just carefully investigate this entire area.

Others may report & share other past oil leak experiences.

Don S · 09-20-2014, 03:10 PM

Thanks,I watched with engine running but it was very hard to see where the oil originated from, except that it ran down the back of the pan at the middle, will try again before pan removal.

Joe K · 09-20-2014, 03:31 PM

The cork seal wants to be landed "on top of" the either side pan flange seal gaskets. In fact, I believe the either side gaskets have a 'square' that engages the square slot in the rear main bearing cap - the same slot that the square cork is placed.

You want to butter this area up pretty well with Perm No. 2 once you trim that cork length so that it doesn't "hump" over the rear main cap.

Starting at the square, butter up and over the cork retaining slot - then place the cork. THEN place the oil pan without any Perm No. 2 on what becomes effectively a "knife edge" seal where the oil pan meets and compresses the square cork. (If you use Permatex on the knife edge area, it may act as grease to allow the cork to "squirm" out of the groove and end up either in your oil pan or dangling in the air as a cork strap in the groove between oil pan and flywheel housing.)

Well, this my thought. Others may describe their thoughts better - or have better thoughts.

I confess my preferred way to do this is with the engine removed and upended in an engine stand. I have done it laying on my back underneath though. Not fun.

Joe K

Don S · 09-20-2014, 07:01 PM

I was out on a garage tour today,of course trying to pick the brains of car owners like myself,one suggested blowing white powder on the seal area. Maybe the white will show where the oil is leaking from. No matter, the pan will have to come off to replace the seals.I must be more careful,old age and glasses,and lying on ones back don't help. I will post how things turn out.

FrankWest · 09-20-2014, 08:33 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Hi Don,

Not really, but I always set this seal with both block & seal coated with non-hardening "Permatex No,2" which I was told years ago by vintage mechanics that "Permatex No. 2" has always been successfully used since Model T days.

Remember gravity, in that the oil may be exiting from up higher & dripping to the bottom of this seal.

Other causes of leaks in this area, (only to list a few), have been reported & can be further researched under both Forum "Searches":

a. The too long rear seal was not trimmed flush; hence, not allowing oil pan gasket to compress.

b. Oil pan gasket compressed too much.

c. Rear oil pan return pipe not installed.

d. Rear main loose enough to allow oil to exit.

e. Oil pan gasket interference with rear main shims.

Usually the thin edge of the pan compresses the seal at least 1/8" deep approximately in the center of the seal.

While it is leaking, try removing all excess oil first. Immediately afterwards, many times in carefully searching this area with a flashing light in the dark, one can sometimes see & detect the source of this oil leak.

If you remove the pan again, just carefully investigate this entire area.

Others may report & share other past oil leak experiences.

Is Permatex 2 better than permatex ultra black?
I am new to this and someone told me ultra black, should I switch to permatex 2?
I have my oil pan out and want to be sure when I put it back in.
Thanks

H. L. Chauvin · 09-21-2014, 01:29 AM

Hi Frank,

Permatex No. 1 will harden with time -- I never use it.

Permatex No. 2 is non-hardening & will remain soft -- I use it often for automotive gaskets.

Permatex Ultra Black is a newer silicone sealer used to make gaskets & is a different material from Permatex No.2. -- like the many silicone sealers that came out in the very early 1970's under Federal Specification No. FS TT-S-00230C, it probably works very well, but I never use it for automotive work because I have lots of tubes of the old standby Permatex No. 2.

FrankWest · 09-21-2014, 10:46 AM

My real cork gasket seems in good shape. Because this is a difficult gasket to shape should I just reuse the old gasket?

1931 flamingo · 09-21-2014, 12:11 PM

Remember how hard it was to drop the pan Frank. I think I would use a new gasket.....

paul in CT

Mitch//pa · 09-21-2014, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Remember how hard it was to drop the pan Frank. I think I would use a new gasket.....

paul in CT

what Paul said
and even if it was easy to pull the pan i wouldn't reuse it

Y-Blockhead · 09-21-2014, 12:27 PM

Good Morning, Don. Altho I have never used this UV Light on my Model A (yet) I have used it on other cars with great success. You put a fluorescent Dye in your oil to detect where the oil is leaking from.

http://www.amazon.com/Uview-413010-B...xgy_auto_img_y

http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Product...pr_product_top

hardtimes · 09-21-2014, 02:04 PM

Y-Blockhead,
Thanks for your input, learn something good every day. Hm, wonder if any here have tried this detection method ? Can the dye cause trouble with oil ?

Hey Frank,
Reuse of old used gasket may be acceptable, it a guy would have NO other recourse, IMO. But, as you have various options, just think of doing the SAME work again/again, because you used a cheap used gasket again...yikes !

Mitch//pa · 09-21-2014, 02:08 PM

the dye does not effect the oil properties. it works in rears, trannys, engines and a/c systems.
a while back someone put it in the trans to see if the fluid was leaking into the torque tube and diff
at the shop we mainly use it in a/c systems, it works great for even the slowest seeps

Y-Blockhead · 09-21-2014, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Y-Blockhead,
Thanks for your input, learn something good every day. Hm, wonder if any here have tried this detection method ? Can the dye cause trouble with oil

I have used it, just not in my A. I used it in my Y-Block, noted for rear main seal leaks. Turned out it was the plug in the rear of the cam. I could have pulled the engine, replaced the rear main seal and re-installed the engine only to still have a "rear main seal leak".

Saved me a ton of work and time.

Does not hurt oil, ATF, power steering, freon, etc.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 09-21-2014, 02:20 PM

The UV dye works in the cooling system, also.
Bill W.

dlfrisch · 09-21-2014, 02:39 PM

DonS and
y-blockhead
Neat idea with the UV trace. I put my pan off and on a couple of times to stop the rear leak (I think- rear leak). I guess I got the problem solved. It still left a small amount, but like everyone states " all "A's" leave a territory spot" .

FrankWest · 09-21-2014, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Y-Blockhead,
Thanks for your input, learn something good every day. Hm, wonder if any here have tried this detection method ? Can the dye cause trouble with oil ?

Hey Frank,
Reuse of old used gasket may be acceptable, it a guy would have NO other recourse, IMO. But, as you have various options, just think of doing the SAME work again/again, because you used a cheap used gasket again...yikes !

I have the new gasket that came in the set, I was only worried about forming it around the edge of the rear portion of the pan.

FrankWest · 09-21-2014, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Remember how hard it was to drop the pan Frank. I think I would use a new gasket.....

paul in CT

Your right, I got an instant education in things that I thought would take much longer to learn with the help you you guys, and
The pan was not that dirty, only and inch of almost non oily grit in the bottom, maybe that could have hurt the engine if I let it circulate through the engine. it was almost like black sediment sand, not oily at all.
I will add the new gasket and buy some permatex 2, rather than use the ultra.

Don S · 09-22-2014, 09:56 PM

I cleaned up the rear seal area nice and dry,started the engine,and with good light ,could see the oil seeping from where the cork seal and pan rails butt together, on the drivers side only. The pan will come off and a new cork seal installed,with more attention to a little extra sealant in those tough to seal corners.

RHD · 09-22-2014, 10:24 PM

I never trim the long cork seal. Seat it at both ends and fit the pan watching the gasket does not slip from either side of the seal while compressing with the pan. (Easier said than done). It will compress and when fitted properly they very seldom leak. I have used this method for 49 years with good results.This suggestion was told to me by a Model 'A' mechanic of the day. He died some 35 years ago and he told me the cork seals were made that length for a purpose. He said that Ford never gave anything away. Use a good (expensive) gasket cement. Never use RTV.
Re tighten pan bolts after a short time.

FrankWest · 09-23-2014, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RHD

I never trim the long cork seal. Seat it at both ends and fit the pan watching the gasket does not slip from either side of the seal while compressing with the pan. (Easier said than done). It will compress and when fitted properly they very seldom leak. I have used this method for 49 years with good results.This suggestion was told to me by a Model 'A' mechanic of the day. He died some 35 years ago and he told me the cork seals were made that length for a purpose. He said that Ford never gave anything away. Use a good (expensive) gasket cement. Never use RTV.
Re tighten pan bolts after a short time.

Gasket cement?
What is Permetex 2? is that an RTV

larrys40 · 09-23-2014, 01:17 PM

Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage.

I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new.

If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged)

If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more....
Good luck!
larry Shepard

FrankWest · 09-23-2014, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrys40

Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage.

I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new.

If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged)

If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more....
Good luck!
larry Shepard

The cork strip goes into the slot in the block right, and the long two sides gaskets are stuk to the engine block, right?

Joe K · 09-23-2014, 01:34 PM

Quote:

I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

Wow.

I'm ALWAYS careful to leave the door open to other opine.

The board is like a party. Some you meet and you like to converse with them further. Others you meet and you can't wait to get away from them.

And it can depend on the subject matter too. But the differences are more often due to something more, um, fundamental.

I wish Frank well. With all the suggestions/methodologies/reasons, he likely will find the one that works best for him.

And THAT is the point of the board - not making petty judgment.

A party killer if ever there was one.

Joe K

larrys40 · 09-23-2014, 05:38 PM

Correct , I should have added that either Permatex number 2 or rtv can be used in the gaskets.
Joe, not sure your comment is directed at me but I think I've replace enough pan gaskets and have a good enough reputation for quality work to say I don't generally have problems after installing a pan . After time, they all leak. Cork gets old and hard/ pan bolts loosen with gasket crush, etc .
I've always had to trim them to fit, the key is to make sure your cormers are tight and sealed, pan is ok, and a good tight fit around the cap. Not sure there's all that many methods to vary here . Maybe I'm mistaken, but seems like your response is the party killer and judgement
Happy Model A motoring!
Larry Shepard

Don S · 09-23-2014, 06:20 PM

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Sorry my initial thread has caused others to get off the track. I appreciate all suggestions.This hobby has been active for a very long time,so methods,materials and personalities have changed. Lets keep it civil,there are always more than one way to a successful conclusion. To those of you that have done this under the car,like myself,it is fairly difficult to get the cork seal in place when there is very little room to work let alone see.Pulling the engine is not an option. Cheers

Don S · 09-25-2014, 10:57 AM

Cork seal inplace, new front seal,the rest done with RTV Gasket maker. All is well, no leaks ! I realize that the next removal will require a bit of clean-up before re-installation,but that is ok.The reason for pan removal was to stop the leak. Mission accomplished. Thanks for your input,great and varied as usual.

09-20-2014, 11:55 AM	#1
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	oil pan rear seal Just changed the gaskets and seals on my pan. The rear seal leaks in the middle just enough to be annoying. Has any one out there put a thin spacer under the seal to make it thicker,I have the right ones from Snyders.

09-20-2014, 12:57 PM	#2
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: oil pan rear seal Hi Don, Not really, but I always set this seal with both block & seal coated with non-hardening "Permatex No,2" which I was told years ago by vintage mechanics that "Permatex No. 2" has always been successfully used since Model T days. Remember gravity, in that the oil may be exiting from up higher & dripping to the bottom of this seal. Other causes of leaks in this area, (only to list a few), have been reported & can be further researched under both Forum "Searches": a. The too long rear seal was not trimmed flush; hence, not allowing oil pan gasket to compress. b. Oil pan gasket compressed too much. c. Rear oil pan return pipe not installed. d. Rear main loose enough to allow oil to exit. e. Oil pan gasket interference with rear main shims. Usually the thin edge of the pan compresses the seal at least 1/8" deep approximately in the center of the seal. While it is leaking, try removing all excess oil first. Immediately afterwards, many times in carefully searching this area with a flashing light in the dark, one can sometimes see & detect the source of this oil leak. If you remove the pan again, just carefully investigate this entire area. Others may report & share other past oil leak experiences. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 09-20-2014 at 01:01 PM. Reason: typo

09-20-2014, 03:10 PM	#3
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	Re: oil pan rear seal Thanks,I watched with engine running but it was very hard to see where the oil originated from, except that it ran down the back of the pan at the middle, will try again before pan removal.

09-20-2014, 03:31 PM	#4
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: oil pan rear seal The cork seal wants to be landed "on top of" the either side pan flange seal gaskets. In fact, I believe the either side gaskets have a 'square' that engages the square slot in the rear main bearing cap - the same slot that the square cork is placed. You want to butter this area up pretty well with Perm No. 2 once you trim that cork length so that it doesn't "hump" over the rear main cap. Starting at the square, butter up and over the cork retaining slot - then place the cork. THEN place the oil pan without any Perm No. 2 on what becomes effectively a "knife edge" seal where the oil pan meets and compresses the square cork. (If you use Permatex on the knife edge area, it may act as grease to allow the cork to "squirm" out of the groove and end up either in your oil pan or dangling in the air as a cork strap in the groove between oil pan and flywheel housing.) Well, this my thought. Others may describe their thoughts better - or have better thoughts. I confess my preferred way to do this is with the engine removed and upended in an engine stand. I have done it laying on my back underneath though. Not fun. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

09-20-2014, 07:01 PM	#5
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	Re: oil pan rear seal I was out on a garage tour today,of course trying to pick the brains of car owners like myself,one suggested blowing white powder on the seal area. Maybe the white will show where the oil is leaking from. No matter, the pan will have to come off to replace the seals.I must be more careful,old age and glasses,and lying on ones back don't help. I will post how things turn out.

09-21-2014, 01:29 AM	#7
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: oil pan rear seal Hi Frank, Permatex No. 1 will harden with time -- I never use it. Permatex No. 2 is non-hardening & will remain soft -- I use it often for automotive gaskets. Permatex Ultra Black is a newer silicone sealer used to make gaskets & is a different material from Permatex No.2. -- like the many silicone sealers that came out in the very early 1970's under Federal Specification No. FS TT-S-00230C, it probably works very well, but I never use it for automotive work because I have lots of tubes of the old standby Permatex No. 2.

09-21-2014, 10:46 AM	#8
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: oil pan rear seal My real cork gasket seems in good shape. Because this is a difficult gasket to shape should I just reuse the old gasket?

09-21-2014, 12:11 PM	#9
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,389	Re: oil pan rear seal Remember how hard it was to drop the pan Frank. I think I would use a new gasket..... paul in CT

09-21-2014, 12:27 PM	#11
Y-Blockhead Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 5,848	Re: oil pan rear seal Good Morning, Don. Altho I have never used this UV Light on my Model A (yet) I have used it on other cars with great success. You put a fluorescent Dye in your oil to detect where the oil is leaking from. http://www.amazon.com/Uview-413010-B...xgy_auto_img_y http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Product...pr_product_top

09-21-2014, 02:04 PM	#12
hardtimes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South California Posts: 6,188	Re: oil pan rear seal Y-Blockhead, Thanks for your input, learn something good every day. Hm, wonder if any here have tried this detection method ? Can the dye cause trouble with oil ? Hey Frank, Reuse of old used gasket may be acceptable, it a guy would have NO other recourse, IMO. But, as you have various options, just think of doing the SAME work again/again, because you used a cheap used gasket again...yikes !

09-21-2014, 02:08 PM	#13
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: oil pan rear seal the dye does not effect the oil properties. it works in rears, trannys, engines and a/c systems. a while back someone put it in the trans to see if the fluid was leaking into the torque tube and diff at the shop we mainly use it in a/c systems, it works great for even the slowest seeps

09-21-2014, 02:20 PM	#15
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: oil pan rear seal The UV dye works in the cooling system, also. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

09-21-2014, 02:39 PM	#16
dlfrisch Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Florida - 32128 Posts: 416	Re: oil pan rear seal DonS and y-blockhead Neat idea with the UV trace. I put my pan off and on a couple of times to stop the rear leak (I think- rear leak). I guess I got the problem solved. It still left a small amount, but like everyone states " all "A's" leave a territory spot" .

09-22-2014, 09:56 PM	#19
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	Re: oil pan rear seal I cleaned up the rear seal area nice and dry,started the engine,and with good light ,could see the oil seeping from where the cork seal and pan rails butt together, on the drivers side only. The pan will come off and a new cork seal installed,with more attention to a little extra sealant in those tough to seal corners.

09-22-2014, 10:24 PM	#20
RHD Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 665	Re: oil pan rear seal I never trim the long cork seal. Seat it at both ends and fit the pan watching the gasket does not slip from either side of the seal while compressing with the pan. (Easier said than done). It will compress and when fitted properly they very seldom leak. I have used this method for 49 years with good results.This suggestion was told to me by a Model 'A' mechanic of the day. He died some 35 years ago and he told me the cork seals were made that length for a purpose. He said that Ford never gave anything away. Use a good (expensive) gasket cement. Never use RTV. Re tighten pan bolts after a short time. __________________ R.H.D. Author of Model 'A' Ford technical manuals. Supplier of good original RHD parts.

09-23-2014, 01:17 PM	#22
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: oil pan rear seal Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage. I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way. The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new. If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged) If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more.... Good luck! larry Shepard

09-23-2014, 05:38 PM	#25
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: oil pan rear seal Correct , I should have added that either Permatex number 2 or rtv can be used in the gaskets. Joe, not sure your comment is directed at me but I think I've replace enough pan gaskets and have a good enough reputation for quality work to say I don't generally have problems after installing a pan . After time, they all leak. Cork gets old and hard/ pan bolts loosen with gasket crush, etc . I've always had to trim them to fit, the key is to make sure your cormers are tight and sealed, pan is ok, and a good tight fit around the cap. Not sure there's all that many methods to vary here . Maybe I'm mistaken, but seems like your response is the party killer and judgement Happy Model A motoring! Larry Shepard

09-23-2014, 06:20 PM	#26
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	Re: oil pan rear seal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Sorry my initial thread has caused others to get off the track. I appreciate all suggestions.This hobby has been active for a very long time,so methods,materials and personalities have changed. Lets keep it civil,there are always more than one way to a successful conclusion. To those of you that have done this under the car,like myself,it is fairly difficult to get the cork seal in place when there is very little room to work let alone see.Pulling the engine is not an option. Cheers

09-25-2014, 10:57 AM	#27
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 243	Re: oil pan rear seal Cork seal inplace, new front seal,the rest done with RTV Gasket maker. All is well, no leaks ! I realize that the next removal will require a bit of clean-up before re-installation,but that is ok.The reason for pan removal was to stop the leak. Mission accomplished. Thanks for your input,great and varied as usual.