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Old 11-11-2012, 07:58 PM   #1
Don S
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Default Float a motor question

I have trouble lining up my starter push rod to switch. It needs to be higher than where the grommet is. I was looking at the rubber pucks that go in the float-a-motor mounts. The last ones I put in are 1" thick,the old original ( 20 years ago ) pucks are only 3/4" thick. That means my engine is at least 1/4" too high at the rear. Any body else found this a problem.This could also be hard on the driveline. A good case for original mounts?
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:57 PM   #2
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Default Re: Float a motor question

If you take a good look at the way Henry designed the originals, they were almost like a cross brace for the frame. The ends at the frame were mounted in rubber, but the other end mounted to the engine and was very stiff. A lot of (improvements) we make are not really all the much of a great improvment.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:11 PM   #3
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: Float a motor question

I'm not really sure, but I think there was a top & a bottom, regarding one of the Float-A-Motor brackets?????? Mine on my '30 lined up O.K. Bill W.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:18 PM   #4
Don S
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Default Re: Float a motor question

I checked the bottom rubber pucks,they are 1" thick. They would be supporting the engine 1/4" higher causing misalignment of the starter rod?
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:29 PM   #5
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don S View Post
I checked the bottom rubber pucks,they are 1" thick. They would be supporting the engine 1/4" higher causing misalignment of the starter rod?
Sounds like it might mess up the choke rod also.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:36 PM   #6
Don S
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I removed the lower rubber pads and cut them down to 5/8" thick. My starter pushrod fits like it should as well as the choke rod. Still lots of clearance on the mounts, no chance of metal rubbing.Thanks
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:42 PM   #7
Mitch//pa
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Default Re: Float a motor question

there is a top and bottom on the rear mounts and will cause the crank hole not to align properly
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:11 PM   #8
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Don, please let us know if cutting down the thickness of the pads adversely affects the vibration factor.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #9
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Thanks for your interest,but it may be spring before I know,but I will post an answer then.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:45 PM   #10
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Get down! Dog,
Buster T. Brown just reminded me NOT to get into the FAM mount thing AGAIN!----------------------Bill W.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:11 PM   #11
Bruce,Upstate NY
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Sounds like the cast aluminum brackets are upside down/
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:32 PM   #12
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Default Re: Float a motor question

I don't know where you got the replacements but here is a great example of what I call "Crap Parts". The smaller pads came for Obsolete Ford here in OKC and the correct size parts came from Mike's in Georgia. They were like you describe.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:16 PM   #13
Don S
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Default Re: Float a motor question

TinCup,what thickness were the correct ones ?
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:31 PM   #14
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Sorry Don I didn't measure them. The ones I replaced had compressed to around a half inch. I can tell you that the top ones pictured fit correctly.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:16 PM   #15
Don S
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Default Re: Float a motor question

Tincup,top ones are not a problem if a little off in thickness,but for me the bottoms were too thick to get good alignment of starter push rod.If yours compressed that much,they were a lot softer rubber than mine.
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