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Old 12-28-2019, 06:03 PM   #1
3twinridges
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Default Front and rear seal replacement

Painting the 8BA in our 52 build with Bill hirsch engine enamel, really good stuff. We pulled the crank pulley to paint it and my assumption was correct and I am leaking oil at the front and from under the front seal sleeve. I did not seal that when I installed it. Planning on pulling the timing cover and oil pan to pull the crank gear and sleeve to seal correctly. While at it replace with a new front rope seal. Is there a way to replace the upper rear seal without undoing the rods and pulling the crankshaft?

JB
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:37 PM   #2
JSeery
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Default Re: Front and rear seal replacement

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Is there a way to replace the upper rear seal without undoing the rods and pulling the crankshaft? JB
Yes, but it takes a little effort. You would have to a least loosen the main cap to get the pressure off of the seal. Then there is a tool to help remove and install the seal. Unless it has a serious leak I would not attempt it.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:23 PM   #3
3twinridges
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Default Re: Front and rear seal replacement

Thank you sir. This was my first build so I missed some of the details such as sealant in key places. I also did not seal the upper seal retainer in the block. I have read that since it’s not sealed it might rotate out with a punch. That way I can replace the seal, and seal the retainer in the block. Think the juice is worth the squeeze? It’s not leaking bad but only has about 2 miles on it!

JB
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Old 12-29-2019, 02:11 PM   #4
cadillac512
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Default Re: Front and rear seal replacement

I think you can seal the front externally by cleaning up the area at the front of the seal sleeve and using rtv between it and the pulley. Can't see why that won't work,and it saves pulling the crank gear.
At the rear,yes I think I'd loosen all the main caps and rotate the seal and retainer out and replace them with proper sealer and new rope.

I would definitely use a "BEST" brand "graphtite" rear rope seal. Far better in my opinion than the others. I just built an 8BA and it's bone dry on both ends after 500 miles.


Terry
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Old 12-29-2019, 03:02 PM   #5
3twinridges
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Default Re: Front and rear seal replacement

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I think you can seal the front externally by cleaning up the area at the front of the seal sleeve and using rtv between it and the pulley. Can't see why that won't work,and it saves pulling the crank gear.
At the rear,yes I think I'd loosen all the main caps and rotate the seal and retainer out and replace them with proper sealer and new rope.

I would definitely use a "BEST" brand "graphtite" rear rope seal. Far better in my opinion than the others. I just built an 8BA and it's bone dry on both ends after 500 miles.


Terry
Thank you Terry, that is my plan of attack. When I lay in new rope seals, should I lay sealer in the groove before the rope? I have both front and rear best ropes, and I understand I need to trim the rear with the guide included. But how about the front, did you have to trim yours on the front after seating it? How about your pan gasket, did you trim it to butt up against the rope and dab a little sealer there?

JB
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Old 12-29-2019, 03:43 PM   #6
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Default Re: Front and rear seal replacement

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I did not lay sealer in the groove. However, it certainly won't hurt to do so. I trimmed the seals flush or barely above and lapped the pan gasket between the halves,actually touching the crank. No sealer there. The fit was very nice that way,even better than using the guide for trimming. I decided to lap the gasket after lots of searching online to read what worked best for others and this was the most used plan. It's the first time I've done a rope this way (lapping the gasket), but the flathead is a bit different than other engines in the seal areas.
Yes, the front needed the same trimming and same gasket lapping. I oiled the ropes before bolting the pan on.


Terry
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