'47 Brake Adjustment not as should be

[em1davis]

So I've followed these directions
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...eak+adjustment

But even with the adjustment all the way so that the shoes should not be touching I get a ton of drag. If I adjust the other direction I can lock the wheel up but I can never get it to spin freely without sound.

Thanks for your thoughts
Jason

[redmodelt]

Off on dragging or continues? New lining and turned drums or been run a while?

[tanner]

Try adjusting tight until wheel won't turn, then back off a few clicks and step on the pedal a couple times to center the shoes in the drum. Repeat until wheel turns with slight drag. Some sound is not uncommon and will not be a problem.

[1931 flamingo]

New shoes??
Drums turned??
Shoes arced to the drums??
Leading and trailing edges chamfered??

Paul in CT

[em1davis]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

New shoes??
Drums turned??
Shoes arced to the drums??
Leading and trailing edges chamfered??

Paul in CT

Yes
Yes
Yes
New Drums
Looks like they are

Passenger rear wheel had no issues which is the picture
The driver side rear wheel is the one with issues.

[19Fordy]

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This may sound crazy but, is your E-Brake cable fully released?

[em1davis]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

This may sound crazy but, is your E-Brake cable fully released?

Yep in fact that was going to be my next project of making sure that it was adjusted to stop the wheel, currently it doesn't.

[Talkwrench]

I does look like your cable is crawling over the holding plate at the bottom? Maybe its just the picture.. Yes check the E brake I don't believe it pulls equally on both sides, I just had to do mine [adjustment].

[papanomad]

is drum rubbing on backing plate edge?

[19Fordy]

Is it possible that the brake shoe lining is too thick?

Is the thickness the same as the front brake shoes?

I remember years ago reading that there is a maximum brake lining thickness. For some reason, I think it was .20 in. Not sure though.

Compare exactly the PASS side brakes with the DRIVER side brakes to find differences. Also, Is it possible that there is a malfunction of the wheel cylinder?

[supereal]

Could be a corroded wheel cylinder piston that is stuck in the bore. The aluminum pistons will become sticky if the fluid becomes contaminated with moisture. Pull the drum of a wheel that doesn't properly adjust. One or both sides of the cylinder will be stuck. The only cure is replacement of the cylinder. Don't bother trying to rebuild it.

[deuce_roadster]

Are all your brake springs new?

[19Fordy]

I just read in my 1935-48 Chilton Manual that the OEM brake lining of the 1940 Ford was .20 thick and the 1947 brake lining is 3/16 in. thick. The Brake shoe Clearance for both the 1940 and the 47 is: TOE .010 in. HEEL .006 in.
For more Tech Info. scroll down to BRAKES here.
https://vintageautogarage.wordpress....948-tech-data/
The same info is and also shown below in BOLD black below.
Brakes

Service: Lockheed Hydraulic, self-centering, double anchor type. Hand lever applies rear wheel service brakes. NOTE—these brakes do not have anchor pin adjustment.
Drums: Composite iron and steel. Diameter: 12”.
Clearance: Least possible amount without drag.
Lining: Width 1.75”. Thickness .187” Length per shoe 13.12” (forward shoes), 10.08” (rear shoes).

Below is a photo of the right rear 1940 Ford brake set up. I know there is an anchor pin difference and an adjustment difference, but it seems your E-Brake cable is not allowing a smooth direct path to the brake shoe. Could that be impeding the proper adjustment and location of the rear shoes? And then there is the question: Are you installing the correct brake shoes for a 47 Ford?
Stranger things have happened.Click on photo to enlarge.

[jimvette59]

Incorrect E- Brake arm it is to long.

[Henry/Kokomo]

I certainly looks like the emergency brake cable is hung up in the shoe anchors. Check the cable and the curved e-brake arm position carefully vs. the other side. Good luck.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by jimvette59

Incorrect E- Brake arm it is to long.

Perhaps. I hope someone can post a photo of their 47 brakes.

[em1davis]

Well I pulled the wheel off which I was hoping to avoid.
I found 2 problems
1) as you can see by the image very carefully I'm not very bright at times.
2) The front shoe is not being moving by the slave cylinder.

I don't even have a clue on how to fix the slave cylinder. So I guess I'll be pulling the whole thing apart soon.

Thanks for the help and any tips on this cylinder will be appreciated.

Jason

[Talkwrench]

Hone your wheel cyl, its cheap and easy you can even do it on the car .. Replace the cups if they are bad.

[em1davis]

Noticed that C&G Ford sells a US version and I assume china version. Anybody have bad luck with the Chinese version? I've heard bad things about the bearings but can a cylinder be that badly made?

@Superreal says it's best to just replace it instead of trying to rebuild it. Anybody else have thoughts about it?

Jason

[deuce_roadster]

The Chinese wheel cylinder problem has been discussed on this forum, do a search and read what Richard at the Early Ford V8 Garage says about how to test them.