The Ford Barn

tubman · 09-13-2016, 07:55 PM

Ron,

I have your book, and in it you recommend that one should remove the top thread of the bolt holes in the block on a rebuild. I thought about doing this, but decided not to for two reasons. The first is that I was working on a good running engine that was already assembled and didn't want to take a chance on getting metal bits anywhere; the second is that, the block looked good and flat over the bolt holes.

You have probably seen from my previous threads that I am having a problem with a head gasket leak. I am thinking that torquing the bolts may pull the threads in the block up, causing a problem. In my situation, would you advise at least carefully chamfering the tops of the bolt holes in my block to help with head gasket sealing?

Anyone else that has an opinion, please feel free to comment.

Ol' Ron · 09-13-2016, 10:07 PM

When preparing a block for boring, I run a flat file over the block surface to remove any imperfections that might affect the boring operation. At that time you can see some of the bolt holes have little humps around them. I have a took that pits in a drill that just chamfers the hole removing most of the top thread. Is it necessary? I doubt it, but it might.

texas webb · 09-13-2016, 10:25 PM

Sounds like a good practice,thanks Ron.

TomT/Williamsburg · 09-13-2016, 10:36 PM

I could be way off base but here goes as I did not reread the former thread .....

Are you getting leaks around a particular stud(s) that go into the water jacket areas? If so, remove the head and get a stud extractor. Once removed get some sealant (Indian head?) and coat the threads that go into the block, get it to tack up, and re-insert the stud. Make sure you clean off any excess sealant ..... just a thought and I have used this with success in the past ....

tubman · 09-14-2016, 06:24 AM

Ron, Thanks for responding. I think I may carefully chamfer the 3 bolt holes surrounding the leak area.

Tom, This is an 8CM with bolts. I have had the heads off twice during this procedure and have used Permatex thread sealer on the bolts each time. All threads were chased with the proper tools (not taps and dies), and all the bolts are original Fomoco and are in excellent condition. The head and block surfaces in the area of the leak look good to me. At this time, I am trying to do everything I can to see if I can make a set of vintage Edmunds heads work because I want to see if the ability to run extended tip plugs is of any significant advantage. I am suspecting there is a porosity problem with one head. You might want to look at the original threads to see that this is a little more complicated than an unsealed stud.

flatheadmurre · 09-14-2016, 09:30 AM

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I doubt that any headgasket is so tight to the bolts and doesn´t compress enough for it to be an issue...
But chamfering and a flat file can´t hurt anything for sure.
If you drop that head off to the shop i can have them pressuretest it for you.

V8COOPMAN · 09-14-2016, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

If you drop that head off to the shop i can have them pressuretest it for you.

You mean to just DROP IT OFF IN SWEDEN? DD

flatheadmurre · 09-14-2016, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You mean to just DROP IT OFF IN SWEDEN? DD

That works to...lol
More like in MN

V8COOPMAN · 09-14-2016, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

That works to...lol
More like in MN

Now that's funny! Just goes to show that SOME folks (ME) pay attention to peoples' locations under their avatars. All this time, thinking you lived in the land of Volvos, I've thought about how well you had seemingly mastered the English language. DD

flatheadmurre · 09-14-2016, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Now that's funny! Just goes to show that SOME folks (ME) pay attention to peoples' locations under their avatars. All this time, thinking you lived in the land of Volvos, I've thought about how well you had seemingly mastered the English language. DD

You are perfectly correct all the way !!
But i had the pleasure to meet with Tubman the last week and the shop in MN is operated by a long time friend...

Ol' Ron · 09-14-2016, 03:30 PM

Moroso makes a sealent that will fill some pretty big cracks. Maybe to perosity of the heads as well. But you can't leave it for very long. Most guys just drive it till it gets hot for a while , them after it cools drain it. Expensive, but works.

JSeery · 09-14-2016, 03:40 PM

I agree with Ol Ron, it is hard to believe that a sealer will not help with this. I have sealed much worse than this using it.

Ronnie · 09-14-2016, 03:54 PM

http://hylomar.com/

I have used works well doesn't harden torquing doesn't have any detrimental issues.
Rolls Royce aircraft engines have used it forever.
R

09-13-2016, 07:55 PM	#1
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,320	To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching Ron, I have your book, and in it you recommend that one should remove the top thread of the bolt holes in the block on a rebuild. I thought about doing this, but decided not to for two reasons. The first is that I was working on a good running engine that was already assembled and didn't want to take a chance on getting metal bits anywhere; the second is that, the block looked good and flat over the bolt holes. You have probably seen from my previous threads that I am having a problem with a head gasket leak. I am thinking that torquing the bolts may pull the threads in the block up, causing a problem. In my situation, would you advise at least carefully chamfering the tops of the bolt holes in my block to help with head gasket sealing? Anyone else that has an opinion, please feel free to comment.

09-13-2016, 10:07 PM	#2
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching When preparing a block for boring, I run a flat file over the block surface to remove any imperfections that might affect the boring operation. At that time you can see some of the bolt holes have little humps around them. I have a took that pits in a drill that just chamfers the hole removing most of the top thread. Is it necessary? I doubt it, but it might.

09-13-2016, 10:25 PM	#3
texas webb Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: San Antonio Texas Posts: 636	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching Sounds like a good practice,thanks Ron.

09-13-2016, 10:36 PM	#4
TomT/Williamsburg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Williamsburg, Virginia Posts: 2,654	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching I could be way off base but here goes as I did not reread the former thread ..... Are you getting leaks around a particular stud(s) that go into the water jacket areas? If so, remove the head and get a stud extractor. Once removed get some sealant (Indian head?) and coat the threads that go into the block, get it to tack up, and re-insert the stud. Make sure you clean off any excess sealant ..... just a thought and I have used this with success in the past .... __________________ Run to the LA Roadster Show - 2016 My Run to Bonneville - 2013 My 32 5-Window Build My Run to the LSRU

09-14-2016, 06:24 AM	#5
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,320	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching Ron, Thanks for responding. I think I may carefully chamfer the 3 bolt holes surrounding the leak area. Tom, This is an 8CM with bolts. I have had the heads off twice during this procedure and have used Permatex thread sealer on the bolts each time. All threads were chased with the proper tools (not taps and dies), and all the bolts are original Fomoco and are in excellent condition. The head and block surfaces in the area of the leak look good to me. At this time, I am trying to do everything I can to see if I can make a set of vintage Edmunds heads work because I want to see if the ability to run extended tip plugs is of any significant advantage. I am suspecting there is a porosity problem with one head. You might want to look at the original threads to see that this is a little more complicated than an unsealed stud.

09-14-2016, 09:30 AM	#6
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I doubt that any headgasket is so tight to the bolts and doesn´t compress enough for it to be an issue... But chamfering and a flat file can´t hurt anything for sure. If you drop that head off to the shop i can have them pressuretest it for you.

09-14-2016, 03:30 PM	#11
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching Moroso makes a sealent that will fill some pretty big cracks. Maybe to perosity of the heads as well. But you can't leave it for very long. Most guys just drive it till it gets hot for a while , them after it cools drain it. Expensive, but works.

09-14-2016, 03:40 PM	#12
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching I agree with Ol Ron, it is hard to believe that a sealer will not help with this. I have sealed much worse than this using it.

09-14-2016, 03:54 PM	#13
Ronnie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Canada Where it snows Posts: 2,058	Re: To "Ol' Ron" if you're watching http://hylomar.com/ I have used works well doesn't harden torquing doesn't have any detrimental issues. Rolls Royce aircraft engines have used it forever. R