My First A - 1931 S/W Fordor

[NH-A]

(In case you didn't see the last thread, this is the brief intro and photo thread of my first A just brought back yesterday)

I'm John, a 21 year old who has always wanted an A. I have looked for years for a nice one that hasnt been hacked and wasnt rotted out. I have looked at a few over the past years, such as a rotted out tudor, but nothing ever caught my eye. I did not want a car that had a shiny hacked paint job, if I bought one I wanted it done right. I also wanted something rust free, which is impossible to find in NH. After seeing the progress with Terry Burtz new engine, I tried finding one with one installed, but it seems like nobody wants to give one up just yet.

Last week, I happened to browse craigslist and found a decent looking A, located in NH (which turned out to be a mistake, it was in Maine) for $8,000. Some of you may have also seen it. I went there soon after to check it out.

Long story short: I got it yesterday. The seller got it a year ago and has no history from it. It's very odd... There is really no rust. To those of you in California or out west, maybe its rust to you, but to us with snow, this would be considered rust free almost. Yeah, there is some surface rust here and there, but as you will see in the photos, the area where the rear fender bolts to the body for example has very clean, straight lines with no roughness. This thing looks better than cars that are 5 years old up here. The muffler/exhaust is oddly clean... is it original or a replacement? You will see the roof has chipping paint, and its SHINY STEEL with light surface rust spots from me washing it.

I think the photos speak for themselves. I wanted to upload them here, but I don't want to post pixelated photos, so I uploaded them to Google Drive. Just click this link to access: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde..._KlPq-B-j1VmSO

My goal was originally to do a full restoration.
-New paint everywhere, chassis and body
-New Burtz engine (good cam, 6:1 head, dual downdraft carbs), Mitchell trans, BW radiator
-All new mechanical brakes
-All new electrical
-All new interior
-Have all the woodgrained painted trim redone
-All chrome replated
-Rebuilt axles and new springs
etc

I am kind of undecided now though. I see many have cars that have less than half the original paint remaining, and the rest is rust, and they call it patina. But this one has all original paint I think, complete with the worn apple green pin stripes. I'm really not sure what to do now. To me, the paint is almost too good to sand and paint over, but there are spots like the passenger door which are totally worn. The roof metal sides and back have most of the paint cracking off in sheets, I dont really know why, maybe it was under a tarp? At a minimum, any cracked or spotty paint areas will get painted.

This is a true deluxe. It has one sun visor on the drivers side. It has a passenger side kick panel pocket. It has a pocket on the back of the front seat with a rope, and pull ropes by the doors. It has a cowl band and lights. Green mohair(?) with apple green pinstriping. It looks completely original except for a modern fuel filter someone installed, and the period correct heater which will be restored. Two blade steel fan. Briggs body tag. I believe this is an early 31 slant window, and I think the engine is totally original and the serial number puts it at December 1930. There is a sticker indicating Shell changed the oil at 34000 miles... the odometer reads 45000. Is that a lot for one of these?

The wood in the roof from what little I can see is in perfect shape, as if it was built yesterday. The wood is painted black and is super solid, like new. Heck, even the body blocks (?) underneath are practically new. Really weird to see a Maine car look this good. The floor pan under the drivers seat has all the paint and tools! All four fenders are steel with zero rust. Even the toothed edges of the fenders are present and look new. No rips in any fender!

Some questions for those who made it this far:
1. I was annoyed to discover an odd dent on the rear pass door. It looks like the door whipped open and bent/dented the area by the hinge. Opinions on how difficult of a time a body guy will have fixing it?
2. The drivers front fender is the worst. It has a slight twisted area, and multiple dents. Can a shop fix it?
3. I see the original red primer in spots. But why are there areas with a green tint?
4. PLEASE tell me the front seat is all the way forward. Its stuck and wont move. There are only like 5 or 6 inches for you to get your foot through the door between the seat and door frame.

And the big question... What are your opinions on the exterior paint? I know its only original once, but is this truly good enough to leave? I lightly waxed some areas to see if the paint would clean up. It kind of does but still has that spotted finish. The rear fenders have small dimples, I would guess the paint is releasing from the primer. I'd like a nice and shiny paint job, but I don't want to destroy an original paint job if you all think its too nice.

[ronn]

best advice- you should do what you want to do.


Its your car.

[Keith True]

I can't see those pictures unless I sign up to something.

[NH-A]

Originally Posted by Keith True

I can't see those pictures unless I sign up to something.

Try it again, sorry, I had the wrong setting on. It should work now.

Uploaded a few more pictures. Still has spots of original frame paint.

[David in San Antonio]

I would start by checking all the mechanical and electric systems and leave the bodywork alone until everything else is done. I would see what could be done to protect the paint. Then I’d drive it for a year to get a feeling of how I like it.
My ‘31 Deluxe Roadster was restored 65 years ago. It runs pretty well but looks rough. Heck, one of the wheels is painted and doesn’t quite match the other three which are powder coated! And yet no one seems to care. Everyone is knocked out to see a Model A. Compared to other As it’s shabby. But so what?
Ultimately you should please yourself. The hobby has no lack of opinions and egos, and yours is as valid as everyone else’s.
I guess if I didn’t have a strong need to make it perfect I’d let it be.

[Oldbluoval]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

David’s advice is solid
Don’t even think of any major disassembly until you check all that has been said herein.

[Jim/GA]

You found what looks to be a great car at a great price. Have fun with it!

[nkaminar]

I think it is beyond being in the survivor's class, so go ahead and restore it.

To move the seat back, that I assume has a threaded shaft and nut, take the assembly apart, clean up everything, and grease the shaft and nut. If needed use the Timesaver for steel parts to loosen up the nut on the shaft. Clean up the sliders on the sides of the seat and grease them. Look for one or more screws that are keeping the seat from moving. Some people do that so it does not move on them, especially if missing the nut or other parts.

[NH-A]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I think it is beyond being in the survivor's class, so go ahead and restore it.

To move the seat back, that I assume has a threaded shaft and nut, take the assembly apart, clean up everything, and grease the shaft and nut. If needed use the Timesaver for steel parts to loosen up the nut on the shaft. Clean up the sliders on the sides of the seat and grease them. Look for one or more screws that are keeping the seat from moving. Some people do that so it does not move on them, especially if missing the nut or other parts.

I'm happy to hear you agree, and it seems nobody would be upset with a repaint, if I do choose to do so in the near future. It's borderline okay, but a tad too gone. I'll keep that in mind for when I get around to the seat, thanks.

[gdmn852]

Hello, Nice find , the 1931 S/W are my favorite closed car, if I ever got another Model A , that’s what I would look for. As mentioned in other posts, check out the mechanics, but don’t take to much apart at the same time, I have seen too many cars dismantled and never get back together. Once you have made sure it’s roadworthy, drive it ! I agree with post 5 seems rare to see many Model A s at shows anymore, mostly 1960,s and up or rods. Bought my first Model A when I was 18 a 1930 Coupe, have a 31 roadster now, turned 71 this August. Good luck and have fun.

[[email protected]]

IMHO -- check your fuel tank. Get it clean and free of any rust or debris before you do anything else. If you don't do this--no matter how well you mechanically restore the "A," you will forever be chasing problems in your fuel system. Fuel is one of the key elements: 1) Fuel 2) Spark 3) Air -- without those three being reliable, you will be miserable and sitting far more than driving.

Once you have that -- work through the mechanicals on the car one at a time. Learn the car and how to handle it. Learn how to time it, troubleshoot ignition, etc... Once you learn these things you will be able to have peace of mind to "keep 'er running and get you home" in most cases. That's where the enjoyment comes.

The shiniest, most beautiful "A" that isn't reliable is a P.I.T.A. to its owner.

And all of this is, of course, my opinion here, for what it is worth.

[CWPASADENA]

WOW!!!

What a great car.

You do not see unrestored Model A's in this condition very often.

I would get it running, clean it up, put some blankets over the seats to protect them and enjoy it for a while before I would get all involved in major restoration work.

First, I would change the fan. It appears to be an original steel 2 blade, and these are notorious for cracking and throwing a blade. I would replace it with a reproduction 2 blade aluminum fan.

Get the fuel system cleaned out and if the engine is not stuck, it should run.

This is about the most complete unrestored Model A I have ever seen with all the original tools under the front seat.

I would suggest you do not use any wax on the car. If you want to do some interim paint touch up, wax can cause problems. I would just use some rubbing compound and polish.

Go slow and take your time. You have a great car.

My opinion,

Chris W.

[Oldbluoval]

I have worked on substantially every body style but not for every year
The slant fordor is the best Model A, structurally and ride.
Many early design and features foretelling the V8’s.

[Herb Concord Ca]

If yours is an early slant the fuel shut off will be inside under the tank. In spring of 31, they switched to the indented firewall with the fuel shut off under the hood on the passenger side.
Enjoy the car.

[Richard Knight]

Hi, that is a very well preserved original car. The right kind of approach to preserving the paint, the upholstery, any part of it is very important. Don't take this the wrong way bbut I would slow down for bit now that you have it. There is a lot to learn about these cars. At 90 years out the unrestored cars are harder and harder to find. A mechanically restored model A with preserved paint and interior is way more interesting than the hundreds of fancy cars. If you want a fancy restored car just buy one they are everywhere. Go to a show see how many folks flock around the unrestored cars.someone said it is your car do what you want. That is true but clearly somewhat selfish and short sighted in the big picture. I am on cape ann, if you are in N.H. you could come down and I can give you show and tell on a unrestored 29 briggs and show you how good it can be. I would suggest looking at Paul shinn videos and get some of the recommended dry wash. It dies work great

[NH-A]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

If yours is an early slant the fuel shut off will be inside under the tank. In spring of 31, they switched to the indented firewall with the fuel shut off under the hood on the passenger side.
Enjoy the car.

I didn't even notice, there IS a valve under the tank inside. Is that the shutoff? The firewall is flat and it has a sediment bulb(?) With a fuel line going to the carb.

[old31]

Yes that is the fuel shutoff. It is in the off position.

First of of I must say that it is wonderful to see that a 20 year old is going to continue the Model A legacy after us old timers are gone. Keep it going. I am impressed with your tenacity of what you intend to do.

It is a great find at a good price AND it has a real heater.

As far as what the mileage curranty reads. You can never reliably count on that mileage. How many times was that speedometer changed, how many miles was it driven with a broken speedometer cable, how many engine changes did it have?

It is your car, restore it, or not, is your decision. Just enjoy it.

[Richard Knight]

True on the milage on the speedo, broken cables were common as the car aged.BUT, I notice the oil change stickers on the door jamb. Those will tell a lot. Mine say 46k in in 1966 which matched perfectly with the filthy condition of the car, just the way I like them. I have offered the O.P. with one on one help. I cannot do any more than that! I have had model As for 60 years and know some stuff!

[Chris in WNC]

the center pouch on the back of the front seat indicates an early production slant.

In addition to all the good advice above, try to get access to a vehicle lift so you can stabilize the surface rust underneath with Ospho & Rustoleum satin black.

Before driving too much, drop the oil pan and clean it out.
There is an excellent protocol in an old MARC or MAFCA magazine regarding leak-free installation of pan gaskets. (I'm out of state right now so can't look it up, maybe someone else here can give you the specific reference)

Join your nearest Model A club and find a mentor or 2.
This car is much too nice to restore.....

[Cape Codder]

NH-A This car of yours is a great start getting into this hobby! Everything looks so VERY sound!

I have two questions concerning the back of the front seat, mainly the pouch. I'm sure the pouch is for a blanket and would like to know if you could take a picture of it with the flap UP so we can see how it is constructed? Do you have a blanket in the pouch?

Good luck with your NEW acquisition!