Starter Switches 1929 A

[1965 Mustang]

Is it just me or is there something shoddy about those $20 starter switches that MAC's and others sell? I have gone through 2 of them in the last 2 years. They seem to work for about 25 starts then they just stay stuck in one position and not work anymore. I have replaced & lubed the bushing in the fire wall and/or tinkered with the switches after they stop working. The only solution seems to buy another one which works great for a couple dozen starts and then the same problem all over again. Thanks for any input.

[Gary WA]

Pack them both up and return for refund. Purchase from Different Model A Vendor! Good Luck.

[C26Pinelake]

You said Macs and others ???? Did you indeed purchase from Macs and if so what did they say when you contacted them about the problem ? Wayne

[Tom Wesenberg]

Call Bert's for a good used original. I'm still using an original and have never had a problem with it.

[Fred K-OR]

Are to contacts bunt or melted where they contact each other?

[29er]

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I've had similar problems (switch gets stuck) and found the following thread very helpful:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...starter+switch

Mike

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Stick with a cleaned/repaired original!!!!

[CWPASADENA]

I run good used originals starter switches and do not have problems.

I have run into several cases recently where members of our local Model A club are having failures with currently available poorly made reproduction electrical components.

I always try to use only good used original or new OLD replacement parts. NOS parts are getting extremely difficult to find. There were a lot of very good quality replacement parts made in the "old days" and you should not be afraid of using them.

For the most part, electrical parts made today in China should be avoided at all costs.

My experience and my opinion.

Chris W.

[brito36]

You will have better luck with an original switch.

[CarlG]

A and L ??

[Willie Krash]

I have fellows bring me Model A starters and often times they want a new switch or brushes replaced that have very good usable life.*
If you have good Ford parts from the era don't be one of those guys..
There is this feeling new is better. Maybe so but don't go with new unless you have too.
I have not been very successful talking people out of this desire.

True 6 volt brushes are different BTW.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

It "seems" to me, that cars with MARGINAL batteries have MORE problems with arcing the switch terminals & causing them to "weld" together & stick????
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

It "seems" to me, that cars with MARGINAL batteries have MORE problems with arcing the switch terminals & causing them to "weld" together & stick????
Bill W.

That's right, a weak battery causes problems.
Time to get the hand crank out, or buy a new battery, if the battery won't hold a good charge.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That's right, a weak battery causes problems.
Time to get the hand crank out, or buy a new battery, if the battery won't hold a good charge.

Voltage goes down, the current goes up. More current greater chance of "welding" the switch.

[TheFargoA]

I have also had this same experience. Some literature shows that these can stick and cause fire too. Always have a secondary power cut-off if you use this switch (at least aftermarket, not sure about the actual original switch). I am thinking of using a modern 1970s Ford starter relay with the power button on the floor to be "authentic" as possible and safe.

[700rpm]

I gave up on the repro switches and rebuilt an original. That was five years ago, and no probs since.