Valve Adjustment on 49-53 V8

[NealinCA]

I am working on an 8BA. Stock engine with Johnson adjustables. It was a good running engine, but before I put it back in the car, I figured I should adjust the valves. I have used .012 Intake and .014 Exhaust, but read in an old Motors Manual that late 49-53 engines should be .014 and .018 respectively. I have 8BA style valve train in a 59AB, set at 12/14, with no problems.

Mac VanPelt's site shows the same specs:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...53_239-255.htm

Any reason the later engine should be set up 14/18?

Thanks,

Neal

[Ross F-1]

Depends on whether the valves are the rotator type or the 48-50 style (which is essentially the same as 59-series engines). Early style on top, rotator below. The difference is the extra cup (6534) that holds the keepers.

[oldford2]

For some unknown reason to me, Ford does call for more clearance in the 8BA's. But you should be good to go.
John

[NealinCA]

Ross...thanks for the explanation. I have the earlier 49 style valves, so I went with the 12/14 specs. Thanks again.

Neal

[Ol' Ron]

Don't forget ther's a differance in spring and lifter length with the rotator assy. best to check spring pressure at installed height.

[bobH]

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Does the cam make a difference? I thought there was a 'so-called' 'good' cam, late 8BA. And, how does one identify that cam?

[rotorwrench]

The early 8CM cam was a good stock grind and the EAB grind is different but I don't know if it is any better for street performance. I know the 8CM Merc cams worked OK on the street with a heavy old Merc body. I have both but I haven't tried the EAB type yet. As far as the type of valves used, I don't think it was changed from the 8BA to the EAB due to the rotator valves but more due to better fuels available at the time. These cams are all way mild when compared to performance grinds.

As far as ID, if they don't have the cast in prefix then you would have to measure it to find out what the grind is. Most of them have the cast in prefix in between the lobes of the shaft somewhere.

[denns1989]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

Depends on whether the valves are the rotator type or the 48-50 style (which is essentially the same as 59-series engines). Early style on top, rotator below. The difference is the extra cup (6534) that holds the keepers.

I just took the intake off my 8BA this evening to see if I had adjustable's or not - I assumed not (engine was rebuilt in early 60's & hasn't been opened up since), looks like they are the "early" type (top one in the diagram)... So now my question is this:

What are my options to install adjustable lifters ? Do I have to completely tear the engine down ?

Engine was running ok but thought I should verify as everyone told me that "those flatheads need to have the valves adjusted" :-) .... guess I will measure the clearances tomorrow with the engine cold to see if anything is way out of whack as a reference - just want to understand what I would be up against if I do need to make adjustment, removing heads & grinding valves doesn't sound like much fun so I'm hoping to understand what is required to switch over to adjustable lifters with as little trouble as possible as funds & driving season are both limited !

Thanks in advance

[big job]

Afraid to say is= no matter which way you go 'solids or adjustables' the intake= heads
must come off and popping all valves out keeping them in order. .012 & .014 will do
just fine. Nothing like a super quiet V8. No question adjustables are a lot faster.
Check out "Fiatnuzt" on Utube (engine machine shop) He came up with a slick
jig to measure and grind the valve ends for solids. Most likely done this way in the
factory. Search his vidios you will find it lots of flathead machine work there..
And yes valve work is not fun mostly adjusting solids lifter ones. Myself mainly at my
age I would pull the engine to do this on a engine stand so I could drop the pan &
clean. Do a complete valve job, get your hands dirty once and be done with it.
Buy the way, even if you have or buy the tool to release guide keepers, by now
after time these guides are pretty well stuck in there. We use a spring compressor
remove keepers and spring, remove valve and bang guides down with a socket.
If you can picture all of this, thats why its way easier with the engine out on a stand.
Then clean and paint and have piece of mind.

sam

[whizzernick]

I have been told that adjustable lifters can come out of adjustment and non adjustable can not. So I have always liked non adjustable. also they are lighter.

[GB SISSON]

The non adjustable can get out of 'adjustment' because of wear and what I've heard called 'valve seat recession'. Now for my question of the day... Should I re-adjust my valves? I have a 59ab with later valves with rotators, valves set at 11 and 15. The specs I was following said 10-12 intake and 14-16 exhaust so I went in the middle. Engine's still on stand and intake on but no sealer on gasket. Drilled lifter bores so not too hard, but I love 'em quiet.

[denns1989]

Thanks for the reply's it was hard to tell if I have the "early" style or not but when I went to check the gap the feeler gauge wouldn't fit for the "later" tolerances (bigger) I checked all valves using the high end of the tolerance ( 16 for exhaust & 12 for intake) as recommended in the Vanpelt link for the "early" & none were to sloppy, I did get a "rub" on all, some a little tighter than others but nothing alarming - Engine runs better now though... guess that 40+ year old intake gasket was bypassing a little :-)... when I removed the intake bolts they were not very tight, so it makes sense.

Good enough for now ! Thanks Again

[chap52]

If you pull the heads and remove the valves you can replace the lifters. But you may find you need to lap or replace a valve, or worse yet replace a valve seat.
My first wife use to say, "Take the time and expense you predict, multiply by three and you may come in under budget and on time." That still only works part of the time.

[woodypecker]

I have adjustable with a .400 high lift cam and they need adjustment too often. They loose their torque retention because the screw is out further with less thread engagement

[Mart]

It sounds like you may be trying to fix a problem you do not have. After your last statement you are going to carry on with the engine as it is, I presume? It sounds like it is ok and adjustables are an unnecessary waste of time.

Mart.

[denns1989]

Originally Posted by Mart

It sounds like you may be trying to fix a problem you do not have. After your last statement you are going to carry on with the engine as it is, I presume? It sounds like it is ok and adjustables are an unnecessary waste of time.

Mart.

Correct, not needed at this time, clearance were still within "spec" & new intake gasket fixed my issue, running strong & tail pipes have an nice "brown" color to them inside, purrin just fine !!

[Mart]

I didn't put 2 and 2 together - I didn't recognise Snoopy (still can't bring myself to say Snewpee) in your avatar. Glad it's running nice now.

Mart.