The Ford Barn

Russco · 08-19-2012, 01:11 AM

Thanks again It sounds great.

Here are some specs: The block was cleaned and Magged for cracks then decked (one bank was .012 taller than the other) It is not relieved. I’m not sure helps with flow that much anyway and I don’t think that’s going to help much on a street motor. The EAB heads were milled. 020 plus whatever they had been milled before. They also have had “Fire Slots” machined into the chambers in the past. Then the block was then bored and honed and standard valve job done. I lapped all the valves in at home and numbered them so they will stay in the same location they were lapped in at.
For cam choice I went with a 1007-B grind as recommended by Pete. The first brand new Isky cam was ground way off spec so I went with a regrind from Delta Cams in the same grind 1007-B it checked out perfect (Thanks Old…Bill).
I drilled holes in the lifter bores to hold the lifters while setting the lash. Valve lash is set at .012 and .014. Isky 185-G valve springs and adjustable lifters were used. New valve guides and stock size valves also.
I used the Scat balanced stroker kit (4.125 stroke and 3 5/16 bore) with Ross pistons and copper head gaskets. I ended up with a .035 quench. Ring gaps were .016 for the top and .014 for the second rings. The crank endplay was .006. All the bearing clearances were re checked with plastigauge and were all just under .002. I used the standard Melling oil pump.

Here is a link to hear it run
http://youtu.be/R42x1P5MiIg

JWL · 08-19-2012, 06:28 AM

I like your cam choice and the other specs make it appear to be a great engine. Keep an eye on that piston-to-head clearance. I don't think the H-Beams will stretch very far but if you begin to hear unusual knocking take a look inside.

Occasionally your Daddy would travel with us to the bigger drag meets and help with the driving. I guess you got those hot rodding genes from him.

JWL

Russco · 08-19-2012, 08:58 AM

Thanks John, Dad has told a few great stories about you and Stan racing from back then.
I thouhgt I'd be OK at .035 on the quench. I dont plan on it ever seeing much above 3500 RPM. How much do you usually recommend?
BTW

flathead4rd · 08-19-2012, 09:57 AM

You gotta love that sound of a flattie with a cam.

19Fordy · 08-19-2012, 10:28 AM

Congratulations on building a nice flatty. What are "Fire-Slots"?

Russco · 08-19-2012, 11:22 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Congratulations on building a nice flatty. What are "Fire-Slots"?

Its a valley machined into the head chamber for flame travel across the top of the chamber I dont know if it works or not they were already done like that. I have seen racing Briggs & Stratton heads done like this for Go kart racing engines.

JWL · 08-19-2012, 01:06 PM

With used rods .035 is about minimum for most engines except at higher speeds. With new rods, a little more. When I am asked I usually say .050 because most non-professional builders can't or don't measure clearance EVERYWHERE on the dome. I just want them to be safe and happy. The performance difference is minimal.

hardtimes · 08-19-2012, 01:35 PM

Hey Mike,
Thanks for sharing! Wow..got my 'juices' flowing. What a great job and sounding engine. Congrats! Love you choice of coupe color also.

08-19-2012, 01:11 AM	#1
Russco Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Springfield IL Posts: 84	Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running Thanks again It sounds great. Here are some specs: The block was cleaned and Magged for cracks then decked (one bank was .012 taller than the other) It is not relieved. I’m not sure helps with flow that much anyway and I don’t think that’s going to help much on a street motor. The EAB heads were milled. 020 plus whatever they had been milled before. They also have had “Fire Slots” machined into the chambers in the past. Then the block was then bored and honed and standard valve job done. I lapped all the valves in at home and numbered them so they will stay in the same location they were lapped in at. For cam choice I went with a 1007-B grind as recommended by Pete. The first brand new Isky cam was ground way off spec so I went with a regrind from Delta Cams in the same grind 1007-B it checked out perfect (Thanks Old…Bill). I drilled holes in the lifter bores to hold the lifters while setting the lash. Valve lash is set at .012 and .014. Isky 185-G valve springs and adjustable lifters were used. New valve guides and stock size valves also. I used the Scat balanced stroker kit (4.125 stroke and 3 5/16 bore) with Ross pistons and copper head gaskets. I ended up with a .035 quench. Ring gaps were .016 for the top and .014 for the second rings. The crank endplay was .006. All the bearing clearances were re checked with plastigauge and were all just under .002. I used the standard Melling oil pump. Here is a link to hear it run http://youtu.be/R42x1P5MiIg __________________ Life is hard, after all it kills you!

08-19-2012, 06:28 AM	#2
JWL Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia Posts: 2,204	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running I like your cam choice and the other specs make it appear to be a great engine. Keep an eye on that piston-to-head clearance. I don't think the H-Beams will stretch very far but if you begin to hear unusual knocking take a look inside. Occasionally your Daddy would travel with us to the bigger drag meets and help with the driving. I guess you got those hot rodding genes from him. JWL

08-19-2012, 08:58 AM	#3
Russco Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Springfield IL Posts: 84	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running Thanks John, Dad has told a few great stories about you and Stan racing from back then. I thouhgt I'd be OK at .035 on the quench. I dont plan on it ever seeing much above 3500 RPM. How much do you usually recommend? BTW __________________ Life is hard, after all it kills you!

08-19-2012, 09:57 AM	#4
flathead4rd Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 505	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running You gotta love that sound of a flattie with a cam.

08-19-2012, 10:28 AM	#5
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,939	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running Congratulations on building a nice flatty. What are "Fire-Slots"?

08-19-2012, 01:06 PM	#7
JWL Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia Posts: 2,204	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running With used rods .035 is about minimum for most engines except at higher speeds. With new rods, a little more. When I am asked I usually say .050 because most non-professional builders can't or don't measure clearance EVERYWHERE on the dome. I just want them to be safe and happy. The performance difference is minimal.

08-19-2012, 01:35 PM	#8
hardtimes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South California Posts: 6,188	Re: Thanks for everybodys Help and advice my first Flathead build is done and running Hey Mike, Thanks for sharing! Wow..got my 'juices' flowing. What a great job and sounding engine. Congrats! Love you choice of coupe color also.