Drive shaft lock pin

[19Fordy]

I seriously doubt if that little spring has enough "spring rate" to counteract
any driveshaft movement.

[deuce_roadster]

[IMG][/IMG]

I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder

[cas3]

thats pretty slick mr deuce

[Admiral]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

[IMG][/IMG]

I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder

This is a BRILLIANT idea. Really clever!

[deuce_roadster]

Thanks, I didn't think regular heat shrink would work even if they made it big enough.
If you ever needed to remove it, probably would come off pretty easily with a sanding disk or grinder.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Spring is between u-joint and speedogear pushing driveshaft down towards rearend.

………...keeping a constant pre-load on the shaft toward the rear, in an attempt to prevent back and forth forces which task the fragile pin. BUT...I doubt that hokey coil spring has the guts to control the fore/aft forces realized by that d-shaft in REAL use. DD

[Will D]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

[IMG][/IMG]

I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder

That's a Great idea! Just ordered some from local electrical supply, will be here tomorrow. Not cheap tho, $17 cdn per foot.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Thanks, I didn't think regular heat shrink would work even if they made it big enough.
If you ever needed to remove it, probably would come off pretty easily with a sanding disk or grinder.

Hey Mike (deuce_roadster)…..What a slick idea! I've run across and used that stuff on a handful of occasions during my tenure trying to keep the Houston ARTCC (Air Route Traffic Control Center) on the air and percolating, power distribution-wise. We've used it in sizes up to 4" diameter. Your vision to use this stuff for the purpose shown herein is pure genius. I personally can't think of a more-logical way to address this "lock pin" issue. Dick D (DD)

[deuce_roadster]

Wow Dick, 4" you worked with some pretty bad-ass wires!
After wondering what that "machining sound" was coming from my torque tube back in 2000 when I got my roadster on the road, and seeing the broken pin sticking out of the drive line coupler making a groove on the inside of the torque tube, I have always looked for a way to corral those pins. Thanks for your kind words. Mike

[deuce_roadster]

Will D, that's only a little over 5 bucks per rear end if you use all 3 you can get out of 1 foot.. If you only have 1 car you can sell or give the left over 2 pieces to someone working on a rear end.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Wow Dick, 4" you worked with some pretty bad-ass wires!
Thanks for your kind words. Mike

A 3.7 Megawatt-capable facility. Lots of sparks necessary to keep roughly 90-100 or so air traffic controllers, their associated equipment, and 140-ish support staff happy during peak traffic times. DD

[RalphM]

Great idea on the heat shrink Duece!
They also make that stuff with a plastic coil inner sleeve, pull the plastic coil out with it in place you want it, and it shrinks it’s self. No heat gun required.

[Brian]

I love the heat shrink idea!

I'd seen those safety pin kits on eBay and used the concept...
I used a 'bandit' tool to apply a bandit band around the end of driveshaft [hollow] to retain the pin should it shear....the spring between the universal and speedo drive gear is a fuel pump spring that sits under the diaphragm. Perfect size.
And yes, the pin[s] need to be simply mild steel, using a high tensile material will lead to premature failure.

[Tinker]

...

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by ***

Shrink wrapping a drive train coupler is hilarious for a torque tube. I wouldn't want that floating around 10 yrs from now.

Has nothing to do with a "torque tube". It's used on 1,000 volt direct-burial power cables, or in this case, a "DRIVE SHAFT" coupler. Anyone taking a moment or two to ACTUALLY do some research should clearly see that wall thickness is substantial at 0.170". Durometer is calculated at "SHORE 80A". Certainly NOTHING "hilarious" about this product, nor it's ability to contain these coupling pins. As deuce_roadster said, he'll likely need to use an abrasive disc on a grinder to ever remove the sleeve. This is probably the best "NEW" idea I've seen on FordBarn this year. DD

[Tinker]

...

[flatheadmurre]

That highvoltage shrink sleeve is nothing like the heatshrink tubing you can buy in the normal store...a knife doesn´t cut it without a serious amount of force involved.
It should withstand someone jumping on a shovel without getting zapped.
Only downside is the pricetag...

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

That highvoltage shrink sleeve is nothing like the heatshrink tubing you can buy in the normal store...a knife doesn´t cut it without a serious amount of force involved.
It should withstand someone jumping on a shovel without getting zapped.
Only downside is the pricetag...

The "Champ Items" 'SAFETY' Pin Kits are all over eBay for $10, with a couple even going at $9-ish. That $17 chunk of this stuff DIVIDED by three sounds like a pretty economical deal, especially when looking at the clean and effective results with using the shrink-sleeve. This shrink material can be found at most CONTRACTORs' electrical supply outlets. But what do I know? DD

[Will D]

Was totally over thinking the lock pin. A few blows with a hammer mushroomed the hollow end, 1/8" solid still protruding from the coupler. A few more blows formed a perfect head while seating it tight against the coupler. Slipped on the heat shrink, a little heat and it's good to go. Although the industrial heat shrink may not be a factory/ original repair method, I think it falls between the lines of juice breaks or seat belts on something that never had them. If it prevents potential issues, why the heck not?

Thanks again Deuce for the tip. If anyone would like a piece of this industrial heat shrink and can't find it locally, send me a PM. Just pay the shipping and it's yours.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Will D

Thanks again Deuce for the tip. If anyone would like a piece of this industrial heat shrink and can't find it locally, send me a PM. Just pay the shipping and it's yours.

Is THIS guy (and THIS place) COOL, or what? You're good 'people', Will D!


DD